Turbo BS Thread

@yota243 , is your package there? Is your package there?!?!!??!?! I am quite curious to see how those fuel trims react, as well as if it starts running more smoothly.


Did a little more practicing tonight. My YouTube curriculum is paying off. I am not embarrased to show these pieces. Lol.

 

Its supposed to be here tomorrow, also there is a welding thread on tw if u need any "one on one" experience in your educational adventure

 

To personal.

 

Haha well this thread is to turbo as that thread is to welding

 

Lol. I gotcha.

 

For you guys that are running a haltech. Question on wideband. You guys running the wb1/wb2 with the lsu 4.2? Using the haltech gauge inline or just running your standalone gauge on your dash?

Knock sensor setup is cool how they use a wideband knock sensor. I'll probably have a question later on about the best way to run a shielded wire.

 

I run the WB1 without the gauge. I have a VEI gauge hooked to it. I did not like the look of the haltech one.


Speed hut also makes a gauge that will work with the WB1.

I used this for my Knock sensor.
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/wire-single-core-shielded-20-gauge-10-39/

 

Boomslang harnesses are crazy expensive. I just bought an ECU header for 30 bucks and soldered it up myself. Even if I wasn’t good at it, it’s worth learning to save $400.

Boomslang will only wire it to the stock ecu. Later you will most likely want to replace sensors with aftermarket ones and will end up rewiring later. I have changed so many things since it first went in.

 

ID1000’s

 

Also, you need to know when running a standalone gauge and connecting it to the Haltech if the gauge errors(E8) like my Innovate would do allot. It would send a fixed AFR of 10 to the Haltech. So in turn the Haltech doesn't know any better and thinks its running rich and would start to trim fuel. It would keep trimming until the truck would get so lean it would die out. With the WB1 its CAN bus so if there is an error with the sensor it will disregard it and set a check engine light.

 

cxracing shipped my kit out. estimate is for the 21st. did some reading and apparently the gaskets that come with it suck so i ordered some oem mls gaskets today.



quick question. is the 5vz throttle body 3" od?

 

These are pretty cool gauges for the Haltech or any Standalone. really expensive though.
http://www.btigauges.com/haltech.html

 

Actually, they wired up a Unichip plug n play harness for a Haltech Elite. Considering that does plug into the OEM ECU, it is as you say. However, since those plugs are not available to the aftermarket, except for UniChip ( URD has their own tooling to make their own plugs for the '09+ 1GR Tacomas), Boomslang's work did meet the criteria for "custom" as well.

They assign the sensors available from the vehicle. Including a pinout which makes assigning and setup within the Haltech a few minute breeze. Plainly stated, it is sheer convenience. Their jumper harness, depending one the vehicle and Elite model, may or may not have unassigned wires, waiting for unassigned inputs. For my 2500, the jumper harness had quite a few spares, considering what my truck used.

Another member, is using his AEM wideband gauge, in concert with his Elite. Uses the analog output from the gauge, to one of the spare inputs available.

For mine, I purchased Haltech's dual wideband controller. Per choice alone. I use sensor in each bank. The Haltech uses those. Whereas I have my AEM wideband strictly for my own visual representation.

 

I have a standalone gauge that I've been running last 3 years. I'll most likely just keep that gauge as my display and get the wb1 as my tuning/ running sensor. Basically have 2 wb in my downpipe. Had no idea how cool that canbus system is.

 

"Another member, is using his AEM wideband gauge, in concert with his Elite. Uses the analog output from the gauge, to one of the spare inputs available."

This is not good if this is all you have to feed the Haltech an AFR.

Well when your AEM craps out or starts frying sensor you can always get a Speed Hut or VEI gauge and connect it straight to your WB2( I really don't like AEM or innovate any more)

 

Innovate kinda screwed me I went through 3 sensors in 18 months. I actually have a complete gauge with working sensor but can't bring my self to sell it to anyone. Wouldn't want to anyone to go through that.

 

welding tips and tricks on youtube, great channel to learn from, and hes done damn near everything under the sun.

 

90126-A0008 Stud Hexalobular

When you wire up the Haltech Knock sensor you can use this stud to convert to the Haltech sensor. This is what I used on the 2rz I would think it is the same for a 3rz.

 

Sweet just bolts up where the stock one is at on the block? Almost thought I was going to be welding on a bung

 

Yup, makes for easy work.