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Turbo BS Thread

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by Clay_916, Mar 20, 2017.

  1. Nov 14, 2017 at 10:09 PM
    #4241
    MrCrowntown

    MrCrowntown Well-Known Member

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    Im eyeing the 1300
     
  2. Nov 15, 2017 at 4:14 AM
    #4242
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    One of the channels that I watch, actually. As well as Weld.com, and TFS (thanks to MadTaco.) Those are my main three.
     
    MadTaco461 likes this.
  3. Nov 15, 2017 at 4:18 AM
    #4243
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Innovate did the same to me. Makes me curious if it is their datalogging controller or something else with their componentry system?

    Correct me if I am wrong, but pretty sure they use the same Bosch LSU4.2 as most other gauge companies. Disregarding the recent industry upgrade to the 4.9 piezoelectric sensor.
     
  4. Nov 15, 2017 at 4:21 AM
    #4244
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Just bringing up the point that it isn't necessary to use the WB1/2 controller from Haltech, for those whom already have sensors or don't want to buy the extra components for whatever their reason. Which must be why Haltech included the ability and wiring instructions to do so.
     
    05Taco4x4 and MadTaco461 like this.
  5. Nov 15, 2017 at 5:47 AM
    #4245
    Ricky876

    Ricky876 Well-Known Member

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    well im running 15-40 right now
    no oil light came on or anything it all seems ok but i bought an oil pressure gauge so imma get it installed today
     
    05Taco4x4 likes this.
  6. Nov 15, 2017 at 9:48 AM
    #4246
    arcenik

    arcenik TRD

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    I also think it's there controller that is at fault. I was using their LSU4.9 sensor, and these sensors are used in stock vehicles so they should last fairly long. I think their controller over heats the sensors.
     
  7. Nov 15, 2017 at 10:24 AM
    #4247
    EubeenHadd

    EubeenHadd Bit of a derp

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    Honestly, any time you go FI in an NA motor a heavier weight oil should be considered. Lots of cylinder pressure to deal with.
     
    Torspd likes this.
  8. Nov 15, 2017 at 10:29 AM
    #4248
    vasinvictor

    vasinvictor Junkie

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    I need to swap out that 0w-30 synthetic water that's in there then :)
     
  9. Nov 15, 2017 at 10:57 AM
    #4249
    EubeenHadd

    EubeenHadd Bit of a derp

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    A 30 weight is better than a 20 weight at least, lol
     
  10. Nov 15, 2017 at 10:58 AM
    #4250
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    I completely agree. I faintly remember some member talking about Innovate having a software issue and doing an update, or something along those lines.
     
  11. Nov 15, 2017 at 11:22 AM
    #4251
    MrCrowntown

    MrCrowntown Well-Known Member

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    Ugh, the gratuitous use of the term 'weight' when talking about oil is bothering me lol

    The W stands for winterization. It corresponds to only the first number, and not the viscosity or 'thickness of the oil.
     
  12. Nov 15, 2017 at 11:45 AM
    #4252
    TartanEagle

    TartanEagle Well-Known Member

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    The numbers are "close to useless" when talking synthetic oil. Their real meaning was with petroleum oils. Now days, I believe manufactures put them on the synthetic bottles simply to make the consumer feel better and be consistent about buying his oil. All modern synthetics will still flow at -65 to -60F, so any "w" designation is redundant. And synthetic will also still protect with a superior boundary layer at 400F (which an oil should never get to; except maybe near the turbine bearings after shutdown. Exhaust valves can reach the high temps, but the oil usually doesn't sit there for long). Speaking viscosity numbers - a 20 will handle being squeezed through an extremely tight clearance, without shearing, so much better than a 40; but a 40 will better handle the sloppy clearances without letting parts "slap". Synthetics will do both regardless of the numbers on the label - to a point. So unless your engine is very worn, don't go to the higher number. Shear is tremendously detrimental to oil, and even though synthetics resist it hundreds-of-times better than petroleum, they can still be subjected to it in extreme circumstances. With modern tight clearance engines, the low viscosities (weights) oils are the better choice. (Unless you change the oil after every race and get rid of those sheared back and damaged oil molecules. ha-ha)
    Just my two cents worth. But I really would like to learn why mfgrs use the "w" on syn oil, if any one actually knows.
    I've been using syn oils -exclusively- since 1979 (will never go back to petro lubes) and still don't understand the "w" in syn oils.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2017
    05Taco4x4 likes this.
  13. Nov 15, 2017 at 12:06 PM
    #4253
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    You-been-had used the term properly though.
     
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  14. Nov 15, 2017 at 1:25 PM
    #4254
    TartanEagle

    TartanEagle Well-Known Member

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    BOTH numbers are still viscosity, and in scientific terminology it's called viscosity index. The "w" does denote cold weather application and is a representation of the V.I. near the pour point. "Weight" is used interchangeably in place of the V.I. and oils really are weighed. {It is the reduction in this weight which eliminated every U.S. made petroleum oil from qualifying for use in Europe a few years back. (I don't know if any qualify yet today.) That reduction is due to boil off. Petro does it a lot and Syn does it very little.} Anyway, as improper as it is, "weight" has always been used, even way back in the straight-weight days before multi-weight oils came into being. You never heard; "use a 30 viscosity oil" or "I like 20w-30 viscosity". But I concede it may not be the best term to use, just easier?
     
  15. Nov 15, 2017 at 1:28 PM
    #4255
    dirtdigginjoe

    dirtdigginjoe Resident meth-head

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    ... Or you could just say "I run 5-30 in all my junk" and not be technical at all about it.
     
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  16. Nov 15, 2017 at 2:04 PM
    #4256
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Torspd Custom Turbo kit [] Borg Warner 9180EFR Turbo [] Haltech Elite 2500 [] TiAL Q BOV [] TiAL V44 Wastegate @ 15psi [] CP Pistons [] CP Carrillo Rods [] ARP Head studs [] ARP Main Studs [] ARP Header - Head Studs [] Ported Heads w/ 1mm oversized valves intake/exhaust [] Brian Crower Forged Stroker Crank [] Darton M.I.D. Sleeved Block [] Kelford Camshafts [] Torspd 160* T-stat mod [] APR Large Fuel Rail [] Walbro 460 LPH E85 Fuel Pump [] FueLab FPR [] APR T56 Conversion Kit [] KP RACING Built T56 [] McLeod Racing Custom Twin Disk Clutch [] One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft [] MGW Shifter [] Custom lowering kit [] Ohlins Front Coilovers [] QA1rear shocks [] Custom Ron Davis Radiator [] Dual SPAL Electric Fans []
    Everyone in this thread, should at MINIMUM understand the designations of oil. Otherwise you are banned. We aren't turning this into an oil thread. :quickdraw:
     
  17. Nov 15, 2017 at 2:48 PM
    #4257
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    Well this was waiting on me when i got home. Prolly install it at work tomorrow.
    20171115_164305.jpg tor... Ur dime stacking needs to be on this level brah
     
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  18. Nov 15, 2017 at 3:21 PM
    #4258
    MadTaco461

    MadTaco461 BRO runner

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    LOL whoever did that has welding as a career. That's a lot of practice to get there. Wish I could weld on that level.
     
    yota243[QUOTED] likes this.
  19. Nov 15, 2017 at 3:27 PM
    #4259
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    I know i was just messing. I rarely get to be on that side if things with tor... Except i do have a turbo on my truck right now:boink:
     
    MadTaco461[QUOTED] likes this.
  20. Nov 15, 2017 at 3:33 PM
    #4260
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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