Turbo BS Thread

yeah a guy I work with had ~a gallon of lawn mower gas, it fired right up and ran, I got to the station and filled it up with e85 and the gauge popped back up to full. I guess an 1/8 tank on my truck is now and 1/8 tank and empty. I figured the light would come on this morning on my way to work... it did not and I guess ill never see it again

 

Today on the way to work everything was working good, fast idle(fast idle hasn't been working) was working and when the engine warmed up idle was above 500rpm. The best thing was that the afr's when I floored it quickly went to 11.8 and WOW what a difference in performance. So whatever is causing the fast idle not to kick in when its cold and low rpm after warmed up must be the culprit.

 

Coolant temp sensor?

 

That is exactly what I was thinking. I read they are running 2.5 bar MAP in this engine which sounds conservative to me at 8:1. I'm thinking run it on ethanol, get more out of the lean cycle and also run more pressure at the top end. We'll probably never see a car designed for ethanol though, I'm really not sure why. Last I heard subsidies are declining yet it's still significantly cheaper than even low grade petrol. I guess the arbitrary decrease in mpg is just too emotionally triggering for American consumers.

I'm assuming you're graduate level taking an engines specific course? What are your thoughts on Mazda's new engine? I personally think it sounds way too finicky and I'm also a supporter of a balance between efficiency and performance. This Infiniti engine has me excited.

 

Wouldn't that be something. I guess if its cheap enough all just replace it

 

Maybe

Or maybe IACV would leaded fuel effect that valve ?

 

The IAC on these trucks are known to get stuck it’s an easy fix just clean it.

 

On 1st gens it's a float in the tank. They can get build up on the resistor.

 

seems like 2nd gens are on the fuel pump housing, there is a doo hickie on them that has like a slide thing that moves up and down (via a float) but its working cuz I put 16 gals and it went up to the full line (I cant fill up my tank because when I put it back together I did something wrong I guess, cuz right before it fills up it will burp a qt of gas out the top of the tank somewhere) so I had been just letting it get down to the light or nearly to the light and putting in 15 or 16 gals cuz before when the light came on it would hold 17.5

 

Nope, undergrad engines course, I graduated in may and moved into the workforce. It's definitely sad that people get all hung up on the mileage loss because E85 is the shit, thank god we've got stations in the Midwest that have it.

I haven't looked too much at Mazda's new engines, but they keep upping gas CR and lowering diesel CR's to the point that they're about the same now, lol.

 

Yeah it's only a matter of time IMO. I don't think many people know otto engines are actually more efficient than diesels.

 

You can break a Toyota down to a frame with one of those lol

 

what's going on it seems like the slightest change in load up or down seems to just reek havoc on the AFR to the fuel trims. I know I still need to tune a little bit since I've swapped out that mass air flow sensor adapter but how do I tune when my trims are going nuts

https://youtu.be/Xo-VkrkY3Uo

 

I am curious what your fuel table looks like.

But yes, you need to do tuning.

 

You need to tune the whole map. Looks like just one part of your map is tuned.

 

The "I's" have it. Tune you must. Since before, you were turning around problems

 

That was something we covered pretty extensively. Diesel is only more efficient due to the compression ratio, otherwise it's significantly worse.

 

I assume its safe to pull fuel a little bit to start since my ltft are negative for the most part just inconsistant in the degree of negativity. I also assume that is correct because i still throw an o2 sensor stuck rich code... Should i follow the stft for tuning in each grid since they are more of an "instant" response to the map (and just pull fuel when stft are goin positive aince they are correcting the ltft readings)? Or kind pay more attention to ltft?

 

At the start of the video when you are accelerating your LTFT are around 0% to -15% but your STFT are +15% to +20%, so I would add fuel there. When you start slowing your acceleration, your LTFT go to 0% to +5% and your STFT are pegged at +20%, so I would add fuel there as well. When you're cruising, your LTFT go to -20% and your STFT are between 0% and -15%, so definitely pull fuel there.

If you can arrange the display of that app, it would be easier to follow what the fuel trims are doing if they they are either next to each other or on top of each other. What I mean is STFT1 next to or above/below LTFT1 and STFT2 next to or above/below LTFT2. That way your eyes don't have to jump around so much trying to follow what the trims for a single bank are doing.

 

Everything is still good i guess the truck fixed itself or my wife secretly works on trucks because it started working after she drove it. the only problem is if it goes back the way it was i won't know exactly what it is so I'll probably just let my wife drive it again