Turbo BS Thread

I think a modified short tube design, with the outlet of the header curving downward into the turbine housing inlet would work. Garrett has reverse and forward turbos, for this exact reason. Tuck each up close to the trans.

 

Tor care to school me on what thats used for?

 

Deforms the block to the way it acts when the cylinder heads are torqued down. Then you bore the cylinder to get them truly round. They may return to an oval shap with the plates removed, but once you torque down the heads the cylinders return to their round shape.

Otherwise, without them, there is a high probability to have the cylinders ovalize once the head is installed.

 

The more I look at it I think in the front passenger corner will be best. Looking at urd long tube headers and build a crossover with a flange for the turbo. Not sure if long or short tube will be better. But in that location it will make plumbing cleaner I think, plus I can run the exhaust out the front fender with a small muffler tucked up high in the fender. Planning on using @OVTune self tuner and percision turbo, probably around 68mm but not sure yet. I'll be lurking this thread asking silly questions and am gonna get a parts list going. Still not sure how much boost this motor can handle, I'd like to run around 8psi but don't won't any problems since I'm not interested in building this motor

 

Sounds good. Short tube on the passenger side can make for some extra room for all of the tubing. The PowerFab kit used a pair of short tubes, to keep the primaries at least "equal." Mine is effectively a short tube on the passenger and long tube on the driver.

 

I totally wanna two step my Taco so I can machine gun shot the exhaust.....can the fic6 be tuned to do that?

 

Yes, it can- but not easily. You also need to add in a limit switch, and run some wiring into the underhood fuse box...there's a DIY here, on ScionLife that many people have used.

Best bet is to get an N2MB WOT Box, as it's confirmed working/compatible with the FIC-6, and is independently tuned. This is the route I'll be going, as it also offers No Lift Shifting and more tunability....and it's less ghetto.

 

I thought two step was lowering the rev limiter in neutral (2 rev limiters) so that you can launch without burning out... no?
I’m fairly certain that anti lag is what you want... which retards the timing enough at high RPM’s (at the rev limiter) to allow the unburnt fuel to ignite mostly in the pre-turbo headers instead of the cylinders which spins the crap out of the turbo and makes terrorists say “alahu akbar” when they hear it

 

Watch these- it should help. 2-step is more of a rev-limiter that will still help you build boost. There's literally 2 steps (see what they did there) of cutting igniton. Also regarded as a "soft cut" and a "hard cut." Anti-lag is retarding timing to cause the combustion in the manifold as you said. This helps build boost MUCH faster

 

I cant wait for a nice ignition cut 2 step

 

I can't wait for you to start working on your truck.

 

This was yesterday



Sometimes, fuck the desert lol

 

My front end is just like that too!

 

Hey this thread again

 

As does mine #twturbosdoinwork

 

I am also battling my alignment lol I fucked with the heims once and now im chasing my ass

 

I wonder what this would do for the 3.4 manifold...

 

As would mine, were I not DD'ing it...

 

Yo dudes, is front CV axle play in all directions besides in and out normal? My front dif is leaking and I can move both CV’s up and down /side to side about 1/4” within the front dif. Or is it just bad seals? I get mixed messages in the various threads I’ve read

 

Never fun. I’m changing all my heims so I gotta do my alignment too. I feel better I’m not the only one doing a butt ton of maintenance.