Turbo BS Thread

Yep. Better ve equals more power.

 

So much littw odds and ends arrived today!!!!!!!

 

I went for a test drive in my truck after changing to the 440cc injectors and the GM sensor. It drove good at first but now I’m getting this and it runs sluggish

 

Did the knock sensor screw into the block?
Also it's probably pretty upset with those injectors and no aftermarket fuel subtracting. I only know that that sensor works for the 5vz, I have no idea if it works for the 4cyl. The 5vz needs a 7.1khz sensor iirc. I deeply apologize if I recommended you the GM sensor, and if I did I didn't mean to as you have a 4cyl and the frequency is definitely different.

 

It will definitely pull timing with that code.

Inspect all wires leading to the sensor, and if they all look good, replace the sensor

 

Actually I’m following the same thing that @boostedka did same part number and when screwing it into the block it only went about 1/3 of the way in instead of 2/3 don’t know if that was it maybe @boostedka will chime in when he can but unfortunately I may have to drive it like this until tomorrow

 

I hooked up mine the same way. It’s not threaded in more than what you stated. I’ve had no issues with it. Zero CEL’s. Did you get the sand PN’s as I had in the picture?

 

True on all accounts, but the wastegate is actuated and regulated by boost pressure alone, so boost pressure wouldn’t drop (because the wastegate diaphragm doesn’t care about CFM), but you will be getting more oxygen (and fuel hopefully) into your cylinders with a higher CFM.

 

I’ve done the GM knock sensor mod as well. As long as the sensor is bolted real tight to a solid metal surface on your engine, it will pick up the necessary frequencies to retain functionality. Metal is a very good medium for sound frequencies and is not limited to speed and degradation over distance like air is (as much anyway). I’ve had my knock sensor on the intake manifold for over 2 years and it never fails to pick up on misfires (like when I decarbonized my engine with water or when my spark plug gaps were too big).
You’re problem is almost guaranteed to be wiring related. Did you use shielded wiring and did you solder every connection?

 

This is the pig tail. I just cut the original connector and put the new one.

 

You may need to solder that if you can, also make sure the stock knock sensor and the new one have the same frequency

 

Oh good!

I hate indirectly breaking things

 

Is that white wire shielded?
If not then you should really consider replacing it with shielded wire (I used coax cable from an old tv) and solder both the shielding ground AND the inner reference wire to their respective counterparts. The stock grey wire should have shielding (mine did). The model I believe I have is an ACDelco 213-325 GM Original Equipment Ignition Knock

 

Mine had a shielding sheath around it sorta like and 02 sensor

 

Yup...if the ground shielding wire is touching the inner reference wire (which it looks like it is based on the crimp connection on that picture) then any voltage that the knock sensor generates will be grounded and therefore not give the ECU anything to read.

 

Its also very important the GM sensor matches the stock frequency. He wont be able to use a V6 sensor because of that.

 

I thought both engines used the same knock sensor?

 

IIRC the 4 cylinder only uses one and it's a different response frequency. I'll try and find the post that details everything.

 

Found it!
Post number 9. Also i quoted the frequencies wrong
http://www.customtacos.com/forum/13-performance/184210-knock-sensor-anyone-use-ks46.html

 

Also I have only ever heard of the V6's needing to have the knock sensors replaced, why did you do it on the 4? jw