Turbo BS Thread

Well I went to the post office and before leaving decided to put the FPR at TB to see how it would do. Not good the Light came on again P0325. I put it back the way it was and reset it and it came back on in less than a mile. Today when i get home i could put the new sensor SU1075 in or just go back to original.

 

If the SU1075 is less sensitive then i could try the new one first. I don't know of anything else that would cause that code (P0325) to come on especially since I've added more fuel (440cc injectors)

 

Gremlins I tell ya, gremlins

 

Try it. But look for a place on the block that's easily accessible, and mount the sensors there temporarily. No sense ripping the intake off every time you want to swap out the sensor for testing. Make sure it's on the iron block though

 

It can be mounted in different places on the block without drilling and tapping ?

 

What's the thread pitch?

I just did a Nissan knock sensor which is the two wire model so I may be pipe dreaming about the ability to remote mount the yota sensor

 

You can remote the Toyota motors very easy a few holes available lower on the block that just need to be tapped. lLCE and paradise both recommend it and when doing so mount it lower on the casting if going fully forged because chomolly can sound like knocking while warmed up. I’ll probably move mine down there anyway because then it can be sort of gotten too

 

This is my DD so I just want to get rid of this code. I'll put this other new SU1075 in and check the wires again if it still does it then I'll go back to stock if then it still does it

 

I know it’s frowned upon to not have the knock sensor on the block, but mine has been very reliable at 8 PSI for two years and 1 year prior to that at 5 PSI. It took me less than an hour to hook up.

 

Do you mean that you deleted the knock sensors ? Oh wait did you put it in the intake ?

 

He just relocated his to a more accessible location

 

@Jstand No one listens to me
You can't use the SU1075 on first gen 4 bangers. You have to use a different sensor because the frequency the SU1075 sends back is INCORRECT!!!!!!!!
You have to use either stock or Part #SU4669 which is another GM sensor. If you keep trying to use the SU1075 the code will persist.

SU1075 frequency: 7.1khz
SU4669 frequency: 6.6khz

https://www.ebay.com/i/263306090878?chn=ps

If you don't believe me check my signature.

 

Ok it finally got through but I just put the stock one back in.

 

Taken from Customtacos:
Ok, here is the new uptade. Most of the informations will come from the e-mail I receive from the engineer at Wells but I will also include confirmed information that I catched from different forums and technical pages.


I decided to include informations about the 5VZ engine. Because the problem is not related to the 2RZ/3RZ only I tough 5VZ folks would like to know also. Even the crowd of the 3S-GTE could like to hear about as there are a lot of features our engine management seems to share... as it is the knock failure problem at high boost. Interesting point is the 3S-GTE is boosted from Toyota and the sensor will hold until too much boost at approx 15-17 psi I think I've red. Then happen an higher than normal detonations event followed by a faulty/broken sensor... and you are back to the beginning.


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The replacement sensors on the market are designed as per the original Matsu****a sensors. As mentionned in the Toyota service book, the nominal frequency is 6.6khz.


GM sensors are as per their design, larger ans heavier. It's the reason why they last longer and hold better the abuse.


Most of the GM resonant sensors, like 99% are 5.2Khz, 6.0Khz or 7.0Khz. (Just a personnal note, that same information is shared for many years by J&S Safeguard through various forums. Themselves told to have received that information directly from GM engineers during the '90 years. So you can rely on that)


One another personnal note, the link I posted (mtg-technologies) previously where you see GM sensors analysed to find resonance must be taken with a grain of salt. The result in about every case is twice the values they should be and it's not normal. Only the Toyota sensor had a value in the range it should.


Important note on the mounting.


The Toyota sensors needs to be threaded all the way to the block resting surface to surface in order to work properly.


The GM sensors must NOT rest on the block. We could say the bottom part of the sensor is where the diaphragm is located. If your sensor rest on it, it won't work properly. GM sensors need to hang by the threads. (more on this few lines below)


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Ok lets speak at what interest us the most, replacement sensor.


*2RZ/3RZ (Toyota 6.6Khz nominal frequency) (Theorical frequency 6.2Khz)
*5VZ (Toyota 7.1Khz nominal frequency) (Theorical frequency 6.1Khz)
*3S-GTE (Theorical frequency 6.66Khz) I would guess Toyota would call for a 7khz-7.2khz sensor as they seem to be few hundreds over the theorical knock frequency value but I have not the Toyota data on this.


The frequency given by Toyota should be the one to look for as the nominal sensor frequency because it's the frequency at which they program the ECU to receive the waveform (voltage) . But because no sensors are dead on, having the theorical knock frequency may help to choose between one or another sensor.


There is two sensors that stand out.


The SU1075 that is the one for the Pontiac Sunfire/ Chevrolet Cavalier. Designed to have a nominal frequency of 7.0Khz. Will work well for anything between 6.6Khz-7.4Khz.


The thread on the SU1075 is direct fit

$13 M12x1.25 mm Self-Locking Nylon Insert Hex Lock Nuts, Pack of 6

M12x1.25 but with a taper thread design. That is a good thing because as I said earlier, you don't want the bottom of the sensor to be touching the block. Because of that, the torque spec is very less critical in the assembly. You just have to be sure it's tight. (Ideal thread between 2/3-3/4 of all threads)


The SU1075 have a internal resistor the OEM Toyota doesn't have. (according of my personal analisys to the mtg graph) it should give the signal less amplitude (voltage). That could actually be a good thing as it would be close to the Toyota sensors range. GM sensors give usually quite higher voltage.


Based on that I would say SU1075 for
2RZ/3RZ: Good choice
5VZ: Very good choice (if the actual body fits in the allowed space)
3S-GTE: Good choice, but would be nice to confirm with the Toyota manual shop




One other sensor that could be taken into consideration is the SU4669deisgned for other GM applications. Designed with 6Khz nominal frequency will work well for anything between 5.6Khz-6.4Khz)


Same thread configuration M15x1.25 taper that you don't want to thread all the way to the block.


I don't have the information if there is an internal resistor in it compared to Toyota.


So based on that I would say the SU4669 for:
2RZ-3RZ: Good choice, considering you are closer to the theorical detonation frequency
5VZ: Should work but SU1075 is a better choice and the nominal is far from what Toyota is asking for.
3S-GTE: Should work but SU1075 seems to be a better choice.




I hope you enjoyed the reading. I can't warranty the result on your particular engines and setup but there is a ton load of reading and searches behind that. At least if you choose to use a GM sensor on your motor, you will know what are the parameters that are inline instead of just guessing stuff.


For my case, now I'm a lot more confortable using a SU1075 for my build.


If you have any question more or less technical about knock system and sensors don't hesitate while it's fresh on my mind.


Thanks!

 

This is why I’m just going to leave it. I’ve taken it apart 4 times now and I’m done. Now I still can’t drive it because vac/boost leaks at the IAC.

 

My next boost project. This is a lot easier to tweak for better performance (sound)

 

As a professional Audio Engineer...i don't think so haha but still fun.

 

Got to be a lot pretty damn close to that 400 & 450 mark.

 

Sheeeeit boi u have been out of the horse power game too long haha... How much was werty pushing through that trd blower set up he had? He had a 4 sec 0-60 and a 12 1/4 mile. I realize he was on stock size tires and im on dirty 3s but i cant be Much over 300 to the ground right now. Best i can tell i had a ~7sec 20-80 (really nearly 90 because of bigger tires but still)

 

Cannot compare his TRD to a turbo setup. All I have to ask is how closely sized and flow is your turbo to a Garrett GT35R? At ~8.7 psi on a DynoJet, with a similar exhaust style as yours, that output was right around 400 & 450, automatic.

Flow dependant, yours shouldn't be far off from that target.