Turbo BS Thread

it was a kit from ko and everything you said about the clocking matches up to what your saying. Original oil feed line burned a hole through it due to my lack of knowledge, had it routed wrong and must have been rubbing against the exhaust manifold.

Ive noticed i am losing a little bit of oil but it did that before i turboed and i may have developed a leak either at the pan or the rear main seal. Its towards the back and i did put the new pan on but i had no oil leaks for the first 3 months i turboed it.

That makes the most sense, the pcv valve is pretty new, i put that in about a year or two ago

 

It will over power it, back to 43 psi.

 

yea i wouldnt worry about it then. just new smells from not having a cat

 

https://youtu.be/yswpG4GuDXI goals?

 

factory manifolds are off and cx manifolds are on (need to pick up a couple studs monday). oil lines and intercooler will be tackled tomorrow.

sorry no pics. hands were way to dirty (and bloody) to touch my phone during the whole process.

 

Like the motorized tricycle that the MCM guys have. With lcv on its rear tyres.

 

Yes did u just watch the honda mini bike race episode yesterday? (could have been today... Im on vacation and time is non existant)

 

Okay so i dont want to over build the motor but i dont want to under build it either. I was thinking studs and a head gasket no doubt. If i would choose stronger connecting rods which with the 3rz sounds like i should, would it be a no brainer to get new pistons? Would that depend on the condition of the cylinders? If the cylinders are good could i just use the same pistons and just get new rings? I dont have a power goal but i guess im hoping for less than the power limit of the w59 trans with an upgraded clutch. At this point i shpuld probably do a new timing chain and delete the balance shafts. Thoughts?

 

how i do every job. way too time consuming to clean hands and stop

 

This is what I’ve learned through my research. The first thing to go on the motors are the connecting rods. What sucks is the w59 trans is going to be your biggest limiting factor. It only holds ~350 ft lb of torque before stuff inside starts breaking.

If I was to build a 3RZ, I would do rods, pistons, metal HG w studs. I would also look into swapping to a R150f trans from a 5VZ though in order to actually use the built motor

 

Yes.

LOL

 

Saw them on MCMtv2 a while back, but then yes again on the episode you mentioned. Wonder how well it would handle without the PCV? Hmm.

 

Lol I just wipe my hands with a rag and grab the DSLR anyways. Idgaf

 

Yes as in i could possobly get away with just rods if the cylinders dont need bored? I dont really want to screw with the compression because there will be a point that i have to have it running with the stock ecu as it is now to pass emissions. Not sure on how much lower i can go for it to not be drivable

 

How much lower with compression? Turbo + lowered compression = better reliability and the ability to raise the boost pressure substantially. If I were building up my 5vz with forged internals, I would without a doubt try to source some shorter pistons

 

im having a very difficult time getting a broken stud out of the head. welded a nut on 4 times and heated area with torch with no luck. have soaking in pb plaster overnight. not sure how id get a drill in if i need to drill it out.

 

Honestly just pull the motor at that point. It takes a few hours. Probably take the trans with it.

 

Yes, as in build the heck out of it

Pistons are most important. I would get your cylinders bored with oversized pistons. That will be the safest way to get a little lower compression, without going to a different height piston, or a stroker crank. Short pistons, and a stoker crank, may require clearance modifications.

 

Picture of what you are referencing to?

 

Finally some one putting the intercooler in a smart place. Look forward to seeing how you make that work