Turbo BS Thread

Looks fast sitting still.

 

A #7 using 25 CFH? You should be able to get away with 17-20 with that size. The larger cups, around 12-16 require 25-30.

However, a little extra coverage doesn't hurt.

 

I don’t remember off hand but I’ll check them out on my UG and post a screen shot of them

 

So jelly!!

 

I suggest a finger heat shield, will allow you to slide easier with support. Also, 2-3 different size rods.
If just practicing there’s no reason to turn the amps up just to lay a line.

Edit:
Welding Tips & Tricks Tig Finger Heat Shield

$19 Weldmonger TIG Finger Heat Shield, Pocket Size, Fiberglass, Unisex

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GYHT8PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PsYIAbC21Z7KE

 

https://megadepot.com/product/uniwe...er-regulator-argon-10-70-helium-25-205-cga580

Just placed my order. Now I can have more accurate control over back purging, for stainless and titanium.

 

https://megadepot.com/product/uniwe...er-regulator-argon-10-70-helium-25-205-cga580

Just placed my order. Now I can have more accurate control over back purging, for stainless and titanium.

@Roostfactor

 

Got this in the worx:

 

I took the turbo and downpipe off today looking for the exhaust leak and I think it was where the turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. It doesn’t look like the flange is leaking enough to re weld another flange.

 

It looks like a mess but I don’t feel like drilling out those studs and putting helicoils again. Still I think the major leak was the turbo to exhaust manifold.

 

Exhaust leaks make it idle like crap.

 

I’ll take it to work and weld the flange/downpipe area in the places that look like they may have been leaking.

 

I had a small leak at my internal wastegate joint. Once I fixed that it the motor is really happy.

 

Anyone know the part number for the 1gr-fe OEM ignition coils? Was boosting today and had a misfire. Think its about time i change it since ill be doing my plugs again.

 

90919-A2006

 

Definitely leaking there. Can you take a straight edge to the turbine inlet, and then to the exhaust manifold flange? You'd be able to determine which is warped, and can then sand it down flat. A copper gasket will also help, but sanding is a lot cheaper if you already have the tools.

 

I did a little sanding this morning on the turbine housing and some welding around the areas on the downpipe that looked like they needed it.

 

Good deal. Still make sure to sand the flange on the exhaust manifold. I say that due to the leak being on the exhaust manifold side of the gasket. Path of least resistance means the exhaust manifold flange is the likeliest culprit for being warped.

 

Now this would be awesome to make intake charge piping out of!

Watch "TRANSPARENT ALUMINUM - CLEAR METAL?!" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/OaYt62_osYA

 

https://youtu.be/Ye2c0nWxksA


Chemistry is cool