Turbo BS Thread

Yes! U got it bro. Denmah on lsx forums did this a few times on his builds and so far no problems. Pushing over 800hp on them too

 

Matt happel? I can't remember his username...unless that's it.

If that is who you're talking about, his builds are awesome! After the 1097whp stock bottom end colorado build I feel like nothing is making as much power as it could lol...puts my 350hp goal to shame

 

Yea that's him. Denmah is his user name. I'm running his turbo package that Vsracing sells. Still working on getting my bw turbo installed tho.

 

What's the LS in?

Because of his vids I've decided I'm gonna do an LS swap after this 5vz blows but we'll see

 

No it's not on a ls, it's on my Tacoma.

 

Oh I see, I just went and skimmed through your build thread.
When does that turbo spool?

 

Changed the oil and filter today from Amsoil to Rotella T6 and change the wastegate spring to the red one 5.80 psi is what it's rated at but my gauge shows 7psi hm are there other variables in this equation

 

Did we forget to tag @KirkRio in the op?

 

Regarding the use of diesel oil (HDEO) make sure it its dual rated otherwise non dual rated commercially available diesel engine oil shouldn't be used in gasoline engines as excessive wear may happen, most likely in the ring/piston/bore area. There are plenty of S (SJ - SN) spec oil out there in thicker weights if that is the desired goal. For example I use motul 15w50 in my rb26 as mandated per the manual.

 

I assume you mean 2rz for higher revving?

But anyways, all the rods are drop forged in the rz family. Most people over advance their timing beyond the sweet spot while trying to squeeze more power out, where you run into problems with even billet forged rods.

The pistons are hypereutectic so they would in theory be the weakpoint as far as the crystalline structure of the material is concerned.

I will agree that the head gasket and studs are a very necessary upgrade though!

 

On rolling launches it Hits full boost around 3400ish if I just pedal mash. But if I launch it on 2nd/3rd gear it's around 3200.

From dead stop it's super laggy but once it gets going it just flys. Barely do this tho.

I tagged him but always good to remind him. I barely see him on here now. He's active on ig tho with rebuilding turbos. Looks like he's trying to sell his STI.

 

Yes. Thanks. Pistons are strong but the 95mm stroke has always been considered a bit too long for a stout rod :shrug:

I have no experience but on Customtacos, its pretty common knowledge (or at least commonly preached) that the 2RZ makes more power than the 3RZ on stock rods. I don't know about the pistons; never seem one of those fail.

5VZ also tend to break rods before anything else (5VZ is not forged btw).

 

So when my engine goes could i just get a 2rz or would i have to change motor mount or trans location?

 

IF your engine goes. 3RZ is still very stout. I think you should be good for 300+ hp. 350 with a spot on tune. The 2RZ, with an RPM bump, generally is safe up to 400. All that is assuming head studs (and while you're at it, a new head gasket).

 

I'm sure I'm pushing the limits at 218000 miles no intercooler and 5.80 psi but the gauge shows 7psi

 

Any of you guys running diesel oil, DO NOT DISREGARD this information. DO NOT.

 

So is the Rotella T6 5w 40w ok ?

 

I'm still runing penzoil platinum 5w-30. They make a "Euro spec" 5w-40 full synthetic you can buy on Amazon. What oil should I run?

 

Euro spec usually has more zddp than non euro spec. Which is a plus.

 

Read what he wrote, and apply to the container you have.