Turbo BS Thread

I need to do some more tuning but ok other than that.

 

So ToyotaShop has a 0.020" cylinder head spacer; this is for lowering compression?
http://www.yotashop.com/2007-toyota-tacoma-2-7l-engine-cylinder-head-spacer-shim-hs954/

 

Yes

Also can be used to maintain head space when facing.

 

Are they stackable? Haha

 

Probably but I doubt it's a good idea. Each one adds a point of failure. No idea how much you'd need to achieve what drop in compression.

 

Hmmm I guess I could take the volume of each void area and add to total cc, figure out the compression

 

I think most of my math skills are done for today. They need to recharge. Been looking for wheels and shift knobs.

Debating on offering taco machining in exchange for beadlock wheels. Dont know if anyone would go for it.

Maybe I could just make some weld on ones though.

 

.02" = 0.508mm

volume of 95mm cylinder, 0.508mm tall, is 0.7206617189559376 cc
so not much

Edit:
x4 cylinders
2.88264687582375

 

Nope. Wonder what that changes the compression by though.

For instance say fully compressed you have .150in of space or 3.81mm and add .508mm so 27.56cc plus .72cc is a 2.6% gain in compressed volume. Not sure what real numbers are but eh. My brain just quit for the day

 

we usually know our CR and displacement from Wikipedia.
Usually compressed volume is hard to know without testing.

CR = compression Ratio
CV = compressed volume
DISP = displacement of 1 cylinder

CR= (disp+CV)/ CV
Solve for CV

substitute CV for (CV+ added head gasket volume)
solve for new CR
all units in cc

edit: I type without checking first

 

On my motor if I add 1cc of volume per cylinder I went from a 9.5 CR to 9.3CR

 

Yeah so not very effective but it is a change.

 

Hey y'all, I'm looking for some advice.

Now that we finally have a way to easily tune the ECU on the second gens (thanks to Orange Virus) it's gotten me contemplating fabbing up a turbo kit for my 2012. I'm good on the fabrication skills and necessary parts side of things, I've modified and built several turbo cars over the years (even wrote my own software for my B5 S4).

Where I'm hitting my roadblock is turbo sizing. I'm pretty nerdy, but I have never really gotten the hang of interpreting a compressor map. So, I'm looking for suggestions on which turbo to go with. Based on research I've done so far, a stock 1GR seems to be pretty happy if you keep it under 400hp and somewhere around 8psi.

I'm not shooting for huge power, I'd be happy with something along the lines of a maxed-out TRD supercharger with all the URD goodies. I'm less concerned with top end power and I'm more interested in fast spool with low end torque. If that means as slightly undersized turbo that spools fast but runs out of steam up top, I'd be willing to make that trade off.

Then why not just supercharge it? Because I like turbos, and building stuff is fun.

With all that said, my current research has me thinking one of the following turbos should have me on the right track:
6066
GT35R
B/W S300 (maybe that's too big?)
T3/T4
Dual T25s (twin turbos just seem like too much a fabrication headache, though it would be cool)

What say you?

 

Considering how OVT uses the stock sensors to tune, you would need a larger exhaust A/r so there will be no backpressure and it doesn’t confuse the sensors reading on each bank.

S366 would work nicely
Gt35r with larger housing would work well too!


If you do twins, that would eliminate that problem altogether and would give some nice torque numbers giving you the low end power you’re looking for.

 

Just thinking out loud. It would be a bit of a pain to tune a turbo with the stock ecu.

You'd need to use a manual boost controller or just run off wastegate spring pressure.
These trucks don't have map sensors. You can tune fuel with only maf and afr.
It's doable, but low boost is really all you can do safely.

 

I was waiting for OVTune the 2TR but hadn't considered that it's inadequate for higher boost

 

I'm not sure what the Ovt capabilities are but you can usually tune through a stock ECU fairly well. Using a MAF is fine but you need to run a bypass valve instead of Bov otherwise the turbo will still pull air through it when throttle is closed, causing ECU to dump fuel in. I've seen 7-8psi done that way fine.

No matter what boost lvl is set from the waste gate anyway. Electronic Boost controllers will allow better control of when to boost and while you can use them to increase boost over what the spring is set at, it's better to set the waste gate correctly. Especially if not using an electronic boost controller.

I have a 1990 miata with an entirely mechanical turbo setup. It uses an adjustable rising rate fpr to tune your afr and still has MAF with bypass. No electronics. Downside is any more then 7psi and you just cant get enough fuel in. Also it's hard on injectors.

If OVT will let you adjust fuel map based on throttle position and rpm, you can tune for boost. It's not ideal though.

 

https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbochargers/gtx3076r-gen-ii

With the TiAL SS turbine housing.

Or a BW along this line. These turbskis spool freaky fast.

https://www.full-race.com/store/garage-sale/borgwarner-efr-7064-turbo-2/

My 9180 EFR makes 3 psi, with no wastegate. Lol.

 

The best map to have if planning on using the OVTune, is the TRD s/c map. It is expanded over the N/A map.

As well as it can tune for larger injectors. The specifics on that have not been given though.

 

You can still get a solid 100 hp gain using the stock ecu and manual boost control. Low boost is still pretty fast. Just don't expect to tune for a nutty turbo hit.