Turbo BS Thread

https://www.motorauthority.com/news...turbocharged-engines-to-better-withstand-heat


Might see cars making big boost in the future.

 

Only scary thing is it’s backed by Chrysler a company that designs cars to implode at 61k lol

 

Good math on their part.

 

legit

 

I blew a hole in one my my boots twice this week the second time having to limp it further to my parents house to replace it. When that happened I was running really rich because not all of the metered air was entering the combustion chamber. Got that all fixed up now I'm constantly in limp mode via knock sensor code p0325. Did some research my wires look good....could I have really have had a sensor just cramp out like that? Is there a chance my spark plugs are fouled and that's what's throwing the code?that doesn't really make total sense I've just never had a knock sensor shit the bed

 

Check the plugs. It's free. Then we'll go down the line.

 

Left to right starting at the front

 

That bottom plug was rich for certain.

 

Yeah switched the plugs to the ones I was using before I did head gasket. Didnt make a difference.

 

All of your vacuum hoses are good? No coolant loss, or other head gasket issues?

 

Nope no coolant loss, all the vacuum hoses look good as well

 

When is the last time that you changed your fuel filter? As knock could be caused by a lean issue. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge, or AFR gauge?

 

Yeah plx afr gauge adjustable aem fpr. Fuel pressure is 45-50 and I have oversized injectors which dont help that much. This morning omw to work I drove it nicely and the check engine light didnt come on for a good 5 miles. Then I would clear and it just came on repeatedly right away. it would just retarded the timing like crazy. I stayed in closed loop the whole time and my afrs were 10-13. Changed the fuel filter probably about 2 years ago. Also to add I had the red oil light flash on then go away instantly one time after I fixed the boot Saturday morning while it was just idling. Does the 3rz have only one knock sensor or is there a drivers side and passenger side? I want to rule oil pressure out since I have never seen that light come on while I'm driving but I dont work on vehicles every day and I'm no mechanic hah. I'm just trying to think like I was ripping it on the highway Friday night when I tore a hole in that boot and limped it to my parents house and was in boost with afrs like 10.5 then the boot tore and I just limped it there with afrs just rich af and tried to stay out of boost when I could. The exhaust side of turbo was red hot and I let it idle for around 10 mins before I shut it off. My air intake temp just dangles next to the turbo because I dont have a place to put it and temps didnt go over 150 and my coolant temp didnt get over 190

 

There is only one knock sensor on the 3rz and do you have any kind of fuel/ignition management also how much boost are you running in psi ?

 

How are you tearing holes in what I imagine are your spark plug boots? Is your valve cover leaking into the spark plug tubes?

 

Old photo and different turbo but I'm talking about this boot. Sorry if my wording was off in the last post. Have a haltech 550 but not hooked up and no tune so just stock ecu right now. Keeping it under 10psi

 

Basically when you blew that silicone coupling, you had a massive vacuum leak. Since it is post MAF sensor.

Simple enough. You have a new coupling on, and have cleared the codes repeatedly. Intermittently it returns, even without the vacuum leak. Is there a specific driving condition that which causes it to activate?

I am leaning towards a knock sensor malfunction alone.

I imagine that you have at some point also upgraded your fuel pump, yes?

There looks to be an off center alignment with the coupling. Not sure which brand couplings you are using, but another brand might do the trick.

 

Yep upgraded aem pump. Actually I'm using another turbo,same I Intake pipe. The turbo outlet is bigger so I'm not using that coupling and the one I did use was cheap and I'm thinking the heat is what cause that to slip off and then just blow holes. Nope once I get the code and then clear it it comes on immediately. I'm really only able to be in 2nd or 3rd gear probably around 2300-3100 rpm haven't gonna over 45mph

 

Gotcha. Sounds like my last Subi. Knock sensor went bad, when all other components were good.

 

Appreciate it. I was kinda leaning towards a new sensor. I'm out of town for the week so I guess I'll try and get that in Friday night. Might go the GM sensor route