Turbo BS Thread

Hush hush swappy swappy

 

LOL now I'm really confused. I'll go back to being quiet.

 

My apologies. I got confused as well. Jet lag is a bishhh. Forget what I said. I was thinking the ACIS valve.

 

Update??

 

Iirc his is also a three wire but the wiring is labeled a little different being an 01-04. I read on 2rzturbo.net something about using a Jeep 4.0L IAC valve with an adapter that DIYAutotune sells. Then it just wires directly up. I'm not really sure out that works.

 

@Torspd @arcenik Any input or thoughts on this?

 

Hopefully you could still stick with the OEM one. Probably could still use the oem ecu to run it if needed.

Saw this write up. Not sure if this helps or applies to you exactly.
https://www.customtacos.com/forum/13-performance/145789-megasquirt-iac-valve-problem.html

 

Thanks for that link. I've read that a couple times, but everytime I read it i find something new.

I also just re-read this from 2rzturbo: "The 2RZ/3RZ uses a PWM IAC, which requires megasuirt modification for V2.2 and V3.0 baord. It is not needed on PCB 3.57 SMT ECUs."
Mine is the 3.57 version. I think i just need to figure out how to wire it in differently that what I did which was this:
Pin 9 Idle valve = RSO E8 Pin 7 Black/Red
Pin 27 VVT = RSC E8 Pin 6 Black

 

Hope it works out for you. Lot of content in that thread. I read it a few times just so it would sink in a bit. Problem with older threads is the new stuff might have figured out the problem already.

 

On another note Kurt is up to over 400 hp and tq on his E80 3rz. That built block is awesome. That truck has gotta be fast now.

 

I can't imagine how fast that thing feels! I think he said his limit will be around 430-460 or so essentially based on what his clutch will hold. Looks like he's already at that.

 

I don't know much about Megasquirt but I think you could use just the RSC with pwm but you could only close the valve this would only lower the idle. If you want to know how the valve works you can read the link below.

http://alflash.com.ua/idlet.htm

 

That pull has gotta be nutty.

 

Still "on hold" and they still haven't replied to the case on PayPal. PayPal says they will make a decision next week

 

Lots of healthy IAT discussions lately, @Jcyr .

Wonder if there is a way to just bypass that thing, or make it just a hole plug? Wouldn't that make life easier for you guys?

@boostedka , I am not sure aboit the wiring or the scaling. With my DBW TB, that function is integral to the Haltech controlling the TB.

Jcyr, however, is in the learning phase of how that shouldbe wired up and scaled in the tuning software.

With the Haltech, it would be easy-ish to swap in an electronic TB, and have the Haltech control everything. The complicated aspect, would be finding a pedal, a TB, and running the wires.

If the Mighty Car Mods guys can do it, so can you. lol

 

This would be me afterwards

 

Thanks for that link. I'll read it more at work today. That makes sense leaving the open side disconnected and using the RSC wire to close as needed in order to lower to idle. Before it was idling around 1600 RPM.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll have to look more into this as well. Sounds like bypassing would make it a lot easier. That was partially why I was looking into using the Jeep IAC with this adapter from DIY. Not completely bypassing the IAC valve altogether but getting rid of the Toyota Valve. I may have to experiment with some different settings and wiring combos.

 

That is near exactly @Jcyr 's issue.

If there is a blade stop, without knowing exactly how it all functions, it almost seems easiest to use that stop as an idle screw. Then just disconnect the IAC. I could very well be wrong though.

 

In haven’t made aby progress yet on lowering it

 

Where at on the manifold are you guys putting the vacuum hose for the map sensor??