Turbo BS Thread

I've been debating on going catless, since it would sound nicer, I already have an O2 Sim laying around, and I'm sure it'd help spool and power... But mostly the banging and popping!

 

Oddly enough, the OEM "down pipe" after the header, slid tightly into the 2.5" stainless. Made for an easy the first joint. What wasn't easy, was getting the OEM exhaust portion to puddle simultaneously and as easily as the new stainless. Of course after thorough cleaning and prepping. I had to turn up the amperage as if I were welding something around 3/16 inch thick. After that, the rest was measure, measure, , and

 

Yours being turbo'd would sound incomparably better than his. Although still loud. His is URD s/c'd. Now amount of audible sex coming from the blower, can make up for that cacophony of noises played by Helen Keller on the choir organ.
That AFe exhaust was well suited for the cats. Not without.


Driving off from my driveway, we yelled across the cab in agreement that a resonator was necessary. Lol.

Put that in today. The 18" Vibrant Ultra quiet resonator.

 

When I had first mounted the turbo on the manifold, we started it without the downpipe on and it sounded SO good, just stupid loud. The one complaint I have with my 2871r is that the spool is too quiet lol. It also got quieter when I header wrapped the downpipe, but it was definitely needed. I'm thinking of going to an exhaust shop again and having them make me a 2.5" catless setup with a magnaflow muffler like I have now, since it was pretty cheap ($250) to have my current exhaust made up. We'll see what happens

 

Made that section modular, in case of the probable outcome. All www.stainlessbros.com material. A quick measurement, then ended up with this beauty.

Impromptu rotisserie FTW!

 

No time like the present!

 

Catless and turbo sounds super good. I could use a muffler though. I'm straight piped.

 

Finally a base fuel map on 550cc injectors.
All I'm doing is applying a correction factor to the maf. I pull about .2v at idle and transition to pulling .6v at wot. Still rich at top but I can finally start wot tuning. Fuel trims under 10%. Truck drives great under no boost. Even the boost transition is smooth. Think I can leave everything under 0 psi right here. Do some data logs tomorrow to tune the fun part.

Still have the hot start issue. I think I can datalog at start up. Don't think I can fix it because the oem afr sensor is warming up. We'll see. I'm just happy the truck is drivable now.

 

Bravo man!

 

You have your wideband wired into you Map-ECU2, correct?

 

Exactly. It's wired in to log afr.

 

Hopefully I have the time after work to do a log. Sunday my "tuning road" was a bit too high traffic to do a wot run. Want to get this map ready for my EBCS.

I messaged mapecu and asked them a question about my maf sensor. My maf sensor is going to max out very soon. Have 3 options. Let it peg out and it turns into a form of speed density tuning until I'm below 5 volts. Put my maf sensor in a larger housing. Or last convert my fuel table to 100% speed density (eliminate the maf sensor).

First I'm going to let it peg out and see what it does. I won't hit fuel cut because the ecu only sees 4.4v. I hit 4.84 the week before on the pinks.

Eventually I'll post a pull video. It's really boring to watch a 15 second pull on video on a truck making 250whp right now.

 

Guy in Saudi Arabia, found that Speed Density was his best choice. Newer model Toyota, so may not apply. Other avenues created temperamental behavior.

 

I always kept my Subaru and my gfs BMW on speed density as it was the most consistent. Most of the Evo guys switch to speed density as quickly as possible, as well.

There's a reason speed density is so popular for turbo cars.

 

I'm not too far from bypassing the maf sensor. Probably what is going to happen with more tuning.
Just weird that a piggyback can do this.

 

I heard this is very hard to do. You need to map out the whole maf table first. I am interested to see if it can be done.

 

My MAPECU3 is wired up for MAF elimination mode. I haven't got around to eliminating the MAF yet as I'm still NA, but it's handy because it has an auto learn function. It's extremely basic in that it just reads the MAF signal and auto populates the fuel table. You still have to go through and tweak the AFR and Fuel tables for closed and open loop fine tuning.

To enable auto learn, you set the fuel table to all zeros and check the auto learn box on the settings page. Then power cycle the system and you're good to go. Once it puts a value in a cell, it won't change it unless you set the cell to zero again.

 

I think this is why it’s no one does it you need to do this first.

 

I think I can easily convert to map if my thinking is correct. I'm going to tune as much as I can with the maf sensor. I have a really good fuel map right now. I cant do learn mode because I already have large injectors. Learn mode just watches what a complete stock motor does. To keep my work down I can just do some logging. The logs tell me my corrected fuel output to the oem ecu. If I build a spread sheet on the side of hitting all my fuel cells, I should have a maf elimination fuel table that runs just like my current map. If it works I'll call it the madtaco large injector manual learning, lol.

 

You see on in this scary log, the light blue fuel line is my corrected maf voltage to the ecu. Just need to build a map off that.