Turbo BS Thread

anyone looking for a catch can? i have an add w1 can im parting with

 

Schedule pipe. Needs to be strong AF

 

I don't know anything about dissimilar metals. Is there are issue with cracking using mild steel flanges and stainless pipe?

 

I believe technically ypu can get certified for this type of welding but that being said they totally have different significant heat ratings and therefore expansion ratings during years of use i bet most cracks form around or near the bond

 

Yeah, need to ask around. I like LCE header flange, but it is mild. The rest of the parts I'm planning to do is 304.

Searched around and found this chart. Hard to find charts stuff with a good high temp data.
http://www.ssina.com/composition/temperature.html

 

Ive been watching a thread on my VW forum where I guy was trying to run a steel turbo manifold with a stainless V band welded on for his turbo mount. It has failed several times.

Here’s another member’s take that gets to details of why.

 

So what it seems like, I would want to mig stainless pipe to a mild flange if I'm stuck using a mild header flange.

https://www.marlinwire.com/blog/welding-carbon-and-stainless-steel

Ultimately I want full stainless just to make it easy on me.

 

I would say full stainless or find a steel V band ring to weld on. You can clamp a stainless V band to a steel V band is my understanding. That’s the plan on mine if it comes to be.

 

A TIG finger, from https://weldmongerstore.com , as well as preheating with flanges mated. If it is the V-band flange, definitely have something attached to it's mating side. It will want to warp, as the welder above stated. Needs a heat sink. Two halves of a v-band flange together helps tremendously. Then post heat, and cool slowly. That will help with the dissimilar metals.

If you cannot preheat, then only tack, and only weld a small portion at a time.

If all stainless, have the halves mated and clamped, then still do a portion, and let cool. Again, unless you also preheat. Warping a v-band flange is extremely frustrating. As you just want to weld all the way around..... been there. Lol.

 

I have had good luck stickin a piece of aluminum on the inside too it pulls the heat away really fast to prevent overheating

 

I also believe that a ER309L would be best suited for the dissimilar steels. Double check on that for sure. The description for that rod includes dissimilar steels.

308 and 318 are generally used for 304 stainless.

347 wire/rod for 321 stainless.

 

Good info to read into. Thanks guys

 

Sooo I’m putting this out finally. This will help with my down payment for my next vehicle or may start to fund for my next turbo project. Will have time to post it up today after work...here’s a reasonable asking price.

1100 for hotside minus WG. 1300 With WG and all springs included.

Some info regarding hot side, I had bungs installed for rear o2 sensors so both front and rear sensors can be used. Welds are not pretty but they do not leak. Because of my truck being an auto, the driver merge crossover tubing near the trans Pan was pressed a little to clear from rubbing. if installing on an auto, you will have to either bend your trans lines to clear or get them rerouted. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

This does not include shipping...

I will update with photos once I get home from work.


Edit: forgot to mention that due to the many heat cycles it has gone through considering it was daily driven, driver side and merge collector vband a may need new vband. I will double check. If I recall, I think I had orders new ones but I don’t remember when I boxed them up.

 

Hotside love

 

Hell Yes!

 

@Lucario Runner

 

I like where this is going!

 

Is that the Oz Boost/chinese manifold or did you build it?

 

Direct from Hong Kong Shanghai, they welded one with a T3 flange for me