Turbo BS Thread

As did I the 2nd drive after the install. Forgot in the midst of installing everything that I never adjusted the wastegate preload, and hit 14psi...whoops!
Man, it was real fun though! Immediately bought the Kinugawa adjustable lol.

 

I cranked my duty cycle up to 40%. It works. Whoa buddy she woke up. Thought I had an overboost protection setup. I ran right through that,lol

 

this is like 4 miles from my house js
https://chancehigdon.valleymls.com/homes-for-sale/9248-Danville-Road-Danville-AL-35619-256774084

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BocAIYunciM/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=p5xvgx97lpaz
Holy turbo jet ski

 

When Turbo is life!

 

Oh it's life for sure

 

im following a guy on insta thats running 15 on stock internals. dynod 400hp and 460tq on e85

 

I wish hawaii has e85. @05Taco4x4 if you plan on running water/meth, i inquired at Oreily and they can ship in the windshield washer mix that has water/meth mixture in it. Just order a whole bunch to make it worth while because they slow boat it in. Price isn’t marked up either.

 

15 is no 400hp on mine. Probably 300hp if I'm lucky. I should be good on pump gas for a while. I really want to hold 15 across the whole rpm range. It was really fun how fast I spooled up compared to boring spring pressure. I probably need 20 to 25psi plus water/meth for 400 plus meth. Still learning the settings on this.

 

crank not wheel

 

1
sorry i just went back to his page. he has pistons and rods running 22psi now

bumpynips is his name

 

Thanks for looking out

I just dropped my block/pistons off at Ted's. Is balancing the crank worth it, $250 worth it? Chad said since going higher torque on aftermarket main studs that I should have caps/block rebored because the higher torque will make it out of round- I'm calling bull on that one, those caps are thick. Looking for input on this one. He said I could throw a bearing, but may be ok.

 

I had my crank shaft balanced. Harmonics can destroy an engine. Depends on the overall RPM you want to run, plus power level.

Line honing just takes it a step further. If they are torque'd to a higher rating, it can warp them. You would torque them down to whatever the specification is for the studs, check the bore of each main cap, and then hone/bore with them still torque'd down. Just like using a deck's torque plate when boring/honingthe cylinders.

 

Thanks, I'm definitely going with the balance. I'm just not sold on the line honing, especially for a "few hundred" (his reply when I inquired how much extra that was). I guess I just don't understand how it can warp them.

 

lol that username. I hope I'll be happy with 15 psi for a while. Don't want to build my block yet or know how too.

 

Get the line bore done. The steel, no matter how thick, will deflect under higher torque. Theres a reason you use a torque plate when honing the cylinders. Same idea applies to the caps. If the contact point from the cap to the bearing is not perfectly concentric, then the bearing will deform as well, and you'll cook the crank. Possibly spin the bearing.

 

So hone but not bore, right? I swear he said bore.

 

Hone is used in place of bore a lot of times. It's essentially the same process.

 

I see it as "honing" being the final precision cutting. Boring, to me, implies you are taking away lots of material.

Just how I have seen it used in my years around the industry.

Either way, get it done lol

 

Glad you guys know stuff about engine building. I’ll ask plenty of questions when I send a rod out the side of my rig