Turbo BS Thread

Thats pretty inpressive what numbers you putting down?

 

So got the 550cc injectors in. Runs a lot smoother and has quite a bit quicker reaction. The old injectors were definitely on theyre way out. I dont have a flow table but i bet it was time for new ones. I put an 6 fitting on the back of my rail cause my afrs were creeping about to 13 at 4k rpm 100 mph. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and boom. Once i hit 4k my fuel pressure dumps to 20 psi. Looks like i need to direct wire my pump for the 43 psi minimum. Ill probably put a bulk head fitting in and run a solo 3/8 fuel line while im at it

 

You have an upgraded fuel pump, correct?

 

Not sure honestly. More than it made in N/A trim. Lol.

 

Oh i bet

 

Aem 340

 

Maybe the relay or resistive circuit isn't working properly? I am not sure if yours is similar to the V6 fuel circuit. Where you have low demand and high demand circuits through the same relay.

 

I ran the fuel pump factory supply wiring and used that as my engagement (85) on a relay. So all its doing is activating my relay where i have 12 gauge wire from a bus bar to relay to pump connector on outside of tank.so..... it might be the wiring from the plug to pump which is light gauge causing too much resistance. I dont have my amp pickup meter here so i cant measure that amperage.

 

So you don't have the OEM fuel pump relay in that circuit any more, correct? Just being overly redundant.

 

No i do. the fuel pump relay feed to pump is my engagement wire for my relay with the 12 gauge wiring. I didnt know if the ecu would throw a fault not using the wiring ( probably wouldnt), but it was getting late and i figured why not throw anothere wire in the loom.

 

Sounds to me like you may have removed part of the circuit. Any way that you can put it back to factory wiring for the time being?

Otherwise, the way I feel that you want to have it wired is for high load all of the time. Which can work, but may decrease the life of the pump. If left as such for continual usage. You'll have to verify that though, to determine if the pump is a continuous duty pump or intermittent duty. I am not sure.

For testing purposes, either way, OEM wiring or bypassing OEM and directly wiring the pump will work. Then figure out which method is most appropriate for your wants.

As a side note. My Walbro 480, is plugged into the OEM wiring. I upgraded the intake wires, but have left the rest of the circuit untouched.

My friend's 2TR with a URD kit, has an upgraded pump, with the circuit untouched.

 

Hey guys, any of you with a turbo 2tr, what intake manifold did you use? I'm looking at the integrated engineering one with the flanges that @05Taco4x4 makes, but wanted to hear/explore any other options as well. I'm hesitant to use the factory plastic one at 20+ lbs of boost.

 

This may help
Sorry fat fingers make it difficult
I can direct wire the pump, buti didnt see a pressure drop till high rpms till 4k. It dropped to 20 psi which showed me that the pump was still operating but not producing the correct amount. I have a fuel lab regulator with a 1 to 1 ratio and so it gives its damndest but can only do so much. Im not saying your wrong , we are spitballing ideas. I think the smart people call it brainstorming.

Hmmmmm i know it feels that im missing something. Im starting to lean toward a faulty pump which wouldnt surprise me.

 

I looked around couldnt find much. That setup 05taco seĺls it pretty clean and very easy to work with. The price of the manifold from the company makes me cringe but hey its only money. You could always pressure test the stock manifold and do a leak down test. Dont be close to it or make a riot shield to protect yourself.

The stock manifold definitely doesnt have the cfm as 05 taco though it has quite a bit better flow i bet

 

Brainstorming spit balls, and their trajectories. Lol.

Coming from J at the top of the diagram, is there any way that you can use the B-W wire to feed 85? From terminal 3, instead of 4? That would then take away the switching action of the OEM relay. I feel like I am see that right...

That is a good fuel reg. Same here.

Did you set your pressure without a vacuum/boost source attached? Then attach that source once the nut was locked down? I am going to assume that the OEM pressure is ~43.5psi on yours, like the V6.

Where is the vacuum boost source coming from, to feed the fuel reg.? Got a picture of that routing?

What do you think? Try the wiring first, and check off these other questions, then go from there?

 

This is how im running mine, stock wiring, and i swapped out the walbro 190 that came with the urd kit for an AEM 340. I dont have a fuel pressure gauge on mine, but there isnt any loss of power in high rpms.. i also suspect there is something going on with the wiring..

 

He said it was right around 4k rpms which makes me think it may have something to do with open loop fueling.. not sure what the pump does differently during open loop, but i cant help but wonder if there is some correlation

 

Agreed. If I remember correctly, it basically took that rpm to get into open loop. That was the only trigger that I noticed.

 

Yeah i can run it off the b-w wire, i just used the b-r wire for ease of use. I was thinking about what you said and i may just wire straight to a switch, i wouldnt mind a deadmans switch for the fuel. No one can jack my shit then.

I had it hooked to vacuum at idle when i was adjusting and measuring pressure from the fuel rail. Yes i believe toyota 2tr-fe is 43.5 psi at idle, i can look it up to verify.

The vacuum source is from a vacuum manifold block located on my firewall above the engine. I got sick of all the vacuum lines every where with t and such, so i got the vacuum block and made it look a lot cleaner in the engine bay

 

Alright. So the FPR first.

That needs to be adjusted before the vacuum source is attached.

As for the vacuum hoses, I take it that those are all coming off of the intake manifold somewhere, post throttle body, correct?

Dead man switch will work and be a good safety measure. Just remember, need to make sure that the pump can operate in continuous duty at full voltage, all of the time.