Turbo BS Thread

This was at 9psi, correct?

Need to get @Smittyxr1984 to make a similar video.

 

Sorry guys been a couple weeks been a busy guy with customer work haven't had much time for the xr. Got caltracs dialed in and finally did a new hardline top to bottom to delete the clutch accumulator made a world of difference. Hopefully get some more road tuning time in a night next week but so far at 7psi with methanol right at 10.8-10.9. Thing pulls so hard compared to before scared myself a couple times wednesday night coming home late and was real cool night temps thing was roaring. Also got a b and m line lock kit to route and install not sure if anyones ever tried to before.

 

Have a short 3rd gear clip I took Wednesday night but its mp4 wont let me post

 

You'll have to upload it to YouTube, then post it.

I've been wondering what's been going on with the tuning. With a properly sized exhaust routing, the turbo kits on the trucks make gobs of torque. Be ready for it! . Get that engine dialed in, and get it on the rollers. Let's see what she puts down!

 

No rain on forecast after Tuesday. Hopefully get next round of road tuning in Wednesday night and def get tuner to take a good video of a 2nd through 3rd pull. Clip I have is 3rd gear only 5 seconds long with the radio on max.

 

https://youtu.be/UpbNu4EVlio

Did 3 different types of pulls. Straight line, uphill, and twisty section. Tried out a different camera angle too.

 

Man that sounds healthy. Nice whistle. Shifts nice and crisp.

Perfect roads.

 

That r155 was a blessing for how much of a pain it was to figure out. Tune has been getting cleaner. Still trying to make a clean 10 psi pull. Could lean it out a bit more. I like the how broad the power is. Pull hard all the way to red line. Not bad too drive it like a car either.

 

Looks like it picks up quite spiritedly too. You did well with your combination of sizing and tuning.

 

Well pulled a couple plugs from each side tonight and stuck em right back. For 30k miles and an iffy tune at best for the all of that plus shooting oil in my intake who knows how long... I thought they looked pretty good. Swapped a couple coils from passenger side to driver side to see my bank 2 rich issue followed but at least after 5 miles it doesnt seem to have. Also I must of been trying to pull myself up to see over my phone and check my speed and laid on the horn a bit haha https://youtu.be/krjacX4ZDzc

 

They've had a rough life and still keep working. How well might it run with a new set?

 

Not sure... But they definitely werent causing my issue and that was the main point of this wellness visit... I guess my next option would be to swap injectors around and see if the issue follows... One of them could be spraying too much maybe? There is now way to tune independently around that either if I pull fuel to correct bank 2 then bank 1 goes lean.

 

Having them cleaned and flow tested makes sure that they are as close to possible as can be, since you cannot individually cylinder tune.

 

I got a tuner theory question: let's say I'm at idle with 14.7 AFR and my ignition angle is 12 degrees. Let's say I add 5 degrees to my ignition angle, so I'm now at 17 degrees and my AFR is 15.2. This tells me I just got worst fuel economy because I'd need to add fuel to get back to my previous 14.7, correct? So if I adjusted my timing to a degree that yielded a richer AFR I'd need to remove fuel to get back to 14.7, increasing fuel economy yes?

 

If true I'd also assume the same can be said for the VVTI timing, adjust until richest AFR for best idle fuel economy. And of course all things said with the assumption that idle stays smooth.

 

Your (my) Afr will bounce around back and forth (I'm narrow band so slower). Technically 15.2 would be better gas mileage because it is lean or less fuel. One of my friends Civics was running 17:1 afr. A negative side to too lean is weird or out of spec emissions (I think nox, could be another).

 

After I found that ignition angle and VVTI I'd go to my fuel table and adjust it to get back to 14.7, it should be a lower number thus my assumption that this is how to get to a better fuel economy at idle.

edit:
this is rubbish if VE tuning

 

If anyone wants a 4.0
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ission-headers-ucon-ems.674432/#post-23706395

 

An issue I can't rectify to my liking is AC control because of the way the Tacoma wiring is, maybe one of you guys can give me a fresh outlook. On Low fan setting, and sometimes the next speed up (M1), the clutch will not stay engaged the whole time; when it engages/disengages, the setting I have dialed in to work well for the respective conditions are different enough that the change throws the idle out of wack momentarily (not as smooth as it should be). I've made adjustments to counter this but leaves me idling at a higher RPM than I'd like while in AC condition. The problem, I feel and as far as I know, is there is no signal that I can easily tap into that says the vehicle is in AC condition; the wiring I can access is signal to IDLE UP or ENGAGE CLUTCH (same-same). I want to idle up while in A/C condition, regardless of clutch condition, and idle slightly higher while also adjusting timing on clutch condition. Has anyone overcome this or have any ideas from looking at the wiring diagram? @Torspd thinking of you specifically friend.