Turbo BS Thread

After doing all this reading on torque plates for the boring of the block, I found an article that talked about doing the same process to a cylinder head when doing a valve job on a higher hp engine. The engine in question that this was tested on was a 1200 hp rb26 and they found some pretty significant results. Majorly beneficial to have a head torque plate.

 

I finally got home and was able to hold the intake plenum in my hands and look it over. Overall nice part, can't wait to get the flanges and runners for it. I will say I'm not overly impressed with the finish inside the plenum, definitely some room for improvement which I do plan to make. I think it will greatly benefit from a dremel and some sanding drums. I'll try and remember to get pictures tomorrow (well, my tomorrow from night shift perspective) and post them.

 

After looking at what @Jon64l did with his intercooler end tanks, I think an intake manifold could be a feasible project to tackle.

 

I dont know who needs to see this but... intake manifold is half made for you.

@Brake Weight
@MadTaco461

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rz-forged-internals.503942/

 

Let me keep that intake in mind. I need to measure around my engine cage. I'm an 8 port motor too. I'll pm if I need a few dimensions. It can't stick out any further than oem. Haven't started on my motor build yet.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1lM-FxTMFE&feature=youtu.be

I hit a small section on Saturday when I was helping my buddy film his new suspension setup. I did forget to close my door all the way.

 

That sounded great and looked like it handled the whoops well. Including the door...

 

Spent a half hour on the phone with Brian over at LCE today. Got some good information and leads on where to go/what to do. He checked the shipping cost for me and it's only $50 to send my head from Maine to them in Arizona. Having spoken with him about my build and my plans, I think I'll send the head to them to have the bigger valves cut and installed.

Before I do that though, we talked about my bottleneck at the cams for flowing enough air with a big turbo. He recommended the folks over at Web Camshafts. We determined I should get the cams sorted out first, that way if there needs to be valve reliefs cut in the pistons, they can do that right at LCE before sending them to me.

@MadTaco461 Brian was able to confirm for me that the 3rz torque plate works for the 2tr block. They made their own torque plate in house, and he said he may be able to work out a rental of theirs or have another one made and sold to me for ~4-5 bills. That's a rough guess on price, not a final price.

After thanking Brian for his time, I hopped on the phone to Web camshafts. Talked a bit with them and they said in order to do a set for me, I'd have to send them my stock cams, give them the planned build list, and they'd set me up with a custom profile based on boost level, turbo size, other modifications. It's a six week turnaround time and $1012 for the set. (Not including shipping I'm sure)

So there's an info dump for y'all looking at doing a performance 2tr-fe build.

 

Do the camshafts!!!!!

 

That's not bad on custom cams. They 800 for my truck. This engine build is going to be moving at a snails pace for me unless I blow up the 2rz.

 

Mine is at a snails pace currently. Gotta finish the British car restoration for my folks. Once that's done I'm saving up for a down payment on a house. And trying to buy parts at the same time...

 

Roll the parts into the house.

 

As my better half constantly reminds me, a house is a separate building from the garage, not a couple beds and a solar shower in the space above a garage.

 

Oh man, I'm getting excited about your build

 

Thanks! It keeps me up at night picturing the exact positioning and process of undoing bolts and busted knuckles. I can't wait to share the progress with everyone!

 

I thought of something awesome on my drive home last night. I'm eventually doing an exhaust cutout once it's turbo time. If I could wire up the cutout to accept a momentary switch signal, and use the "mode" button on the steering wheel controls to be that switch... I want to keep the sleeper look, so I don't want a bunch of switches and buttons everywhere.

 

I had my VW build mapped out to a T for when I finally pulled the trigger on the brown truck parts train. Ordered a Bentley hardback(VW repair Bible) and had everything post it-ed in it and then a word.doc of pertinent torque specs. It happened fairly quick once I got going. Pulling the engine for the first time was the biggie.

Do you have any available blanks in the dash? You could put an OEM switch labeled as something else and repurpose it for what you want.

 

I have nothing but blanks, base model RC. But I want it to be stealthy and different. Everyone has the "flip switch" for cutouts, I think being able to just push the mode button would be a neat thing to do. Certainly not practical in terms of wiring, but neat nonetheless.

 

Gotcha. I found some tiny rocker switches and fit them into one of the blanks. One for a PIAA relay and the other is speaker wire to interrupt the signal to the air solenoid for the ADD giving me 3 wheel drive with the front Aussie locker. Not as covert but hard to catch. I have an electric window switch that fits I intended to use for the winch but never installed it.

 

Nice! I want to avoid people looking in the cab and going "what're those switches for?" "Oh nothing much... just the fuel pump, ignition, anti lag, line lock, noise producer, all light kill switch...."