Turbo BS Thread

@RedLantern I cought up to your build's last night, and saw your videos. does sound NICE!

How much louder is it in the cab?

Also, you say 3" pipe, but the specs say 2-3/4". can you confirm it is 3"? by the listed specs, the cat back is larger pipe than the Spec-U. but then it makes no mention of the resonator either, and plain Y in the pics.





I reached out to URD with a couple of specific questions, and the response i got back was "I would go with the Spec-U, because it sounds fantastic". How it sounds was not one of my questions.

 

I know it's probably not going to be a popular opinion but I really like how my TRD Pro exhaust sounds. But I also deliberately kept it both because of that and because I was going for a more subtle setup

 

I know you are excited about this!

 

I can’t confirm right now since truck is not in possession at the moment. But I CAN confirm Purchasing 3” OD stainless tubing and clamps for the muffler swap. I’m wondering if the 2 3/4” is measured at the exhaust tip since it isn’t completely circle.


As far as how it sounds in cab, you can definitely hear it with the blackwidow muffler. But If you’ll be using the magnaflow it comes with, it will probably be softer in tone.

 

Any of you guys running a BOV re-circ setup? I've read many times that it's essential for a MAF setup so I'm trying to do my homework and get it done. The one thing I'm stuck on is the BOV outlet size. I'm assuming it's dependent on the setup but I can't find any sources that talk about what size for what application.

 

As long as the maf is post BOV you can vent to atm. If you are pulling through your maf you will have to recirc tho

 

Awesome! Thanks!

 

@MrMurse
What @yota243 said.

My maf is near the Throttle body, but I still recirc because my truck sees alot of dirt, I don't want any opportunities for dust to get in the piping/engine.

I use this bov.
https://www.rkxtech.com/products/rkx-diverter-valve

 

I hadn't thought of that, that's a really good point. I'm going to be doing a fair amount of off-roading so it might be worthwhile afterall.

Here's my current setup, looks like the BOV is in just the right spot to get filthy and let stuff in.

 

@MrMurse
You could move the location to the U bend before the throttle body. To make the recirc tube short back into the intake pipe. Or put the bov on the hot Ic pipe. Hks also makes a nice recirculating valve, costs a bit more tho.

 

Started work on my Audi work car project AWD 1.8t. Plan to keep it stock for now and just replace the blown head gasket to save on gas with my long commutes. We’ll see how long that lasts.

Day one: pile of unnecessary plumbing is forming.



Day two (yesterday): head yanked and more useless plumbing discovered under intake manifold. Note the stock baby turbo there. I’ve got the bigger one from my wrecked VW 1.8t that would throw a grenade at this bottom end but would be a blast for a little while. These Audi rods are supposedly good for 250-300ish HP max before they start letting loose.

 

I like that tight center line radius 3". That setup will get you going until you can change things around. Wouldn't be hard to makes yours recirc, since you have that aluminum elbow at the turbo inlet.

 

Glad to see you aren't wasting time.

 

1.5gal of SuperClean and 5 gallons of water. Add aluminum head and wait.


It cleaned up nicely with a dish brush. So nice I tossed in the intake manifold. Note the fresh foam forming at the throttle body hole.


It cleaned so nicely that I’ll paint it and the valve cover black.


Next up was a little research and a ‘90s model Jetta 2.0 manual tensioner. $60 instead of the OEM hydro tensioner about $130. New timing belt and water pump with manual tensioner done. Kick myself in the nuts for not doing this years ago.


Head installed and torqued down as per spec.



As per turbo thread, here’s the baby snail.

 

Bubble bath FTW. Dayum.

 

That degreaser is the awesomest. I didn’t get a before of the intake manifold but rest assured it was no better off than any 3rz mani you’ve seen. Wasn’t clogged arteries bad, but had a good bit of build up. The oil filter I’m holding upside down shows what was in the engine and caked up on the head. Brake cleaned and air hosed out all the passages on it once it was through in the bubble bath. Threw the air box in, too and it came out looking nice and clean. I’m about to get going and hope to have it idling in 2-4 hours barring any broken bolt failure…..

 

Man you’re moving quickly! That’s impressive. Let’s see a start-up video.

 

Trying to beat this hurricane and avoid shop time looking at the head I took a gamble. Well…full blown sent it that resulted in a full blown fail with the exact same symptoms. 90% sure head is fukt. 90% sure the head from my VW AWP will work since they appear identical. Gonna pull compression then add some oil and do it again. May be going full blown send again if the rings are rurnt. My other block has H beam rifled rods…

 

Lengthy path to diagnose, but part of the process. Thinking the head is too warped, or got cracks in it?

 

My jewels have arrived