Turbo BS Thread

@boostedka Have you done anything to the inside of your engine or ARP studs ?

 

Motor is stock with just under 180k. I've just replaced the clutch and did a new rear main seal at the same time since I had it opened up.

 

And your running 10 psi boost makes me want to push a little more when I get the injector in which just came in today thx

 

I was running about 8.5psi with them. That's probably close to the max with a stock Ecu.

Glad to see they got there so quickly!

 

I might be the only 4 banger with arp studs cuz I had to pull my head. Never popped it when I ran 8 psi.

As long as you don't start knocking should be good on stock gasket for a while.

 

i'll be #teamARP too








eventually

 

My car has arp studs with stock gasket on 8 psi. No issues But then again it revs to 8500 rpm

 

ARP on 4 of my engines. Three 1GRs, and one M52.

 

There is a huge difference between those stockers and arp.

 

Has anyone ever pulled the valve cover off and just replaced the stock head bolts with ARP studs? Just torqued them down using the stock gasket left in place?

 

If you can get to them without interference from the valve train, then just do one at time. Although, that wouldn't be the preferred method, since it will unevenly unload the head. Still do-able though. Safer on your RZ blocks since they are iron.

Draining some coolant, evenly untorquing the factory bolts, but retaining a few around 20 ft-lbs on each would be best. Then replace one at a time, in sequence and torque back to the first torque step. Until all are replaced.

This way, by keeping some tension on the OEM bolts, you'll prevent fluids from getting between the mating surfaces of the gasket, ruining its seal.

Then follow up by torquing the rest in sequence, in steps.

Best also to put the studs in a bag a boil them. That will allow them to have some heat expansion. Next, after the maximum torque of ~75 ft-lbs is reached, let them sit for a few hours or even a day. Come back a retorque to max again. Due to condtructional stretch.

 

Gotta pull the cams to get to the studs on an rz motor. I'd wait til you want to do head work or the gasket begins to fail.

 

Thanks for the feedback on that guys. Seems crazy you can't access the head bolts with the cams in. Aren't you supposed to re-torque after a certain amount of miles when install ARP studs? IIRC i did that on my 240sx i built back in the day

 

It didn't say anything about a retorque. That would be a good chunk of time if you had to do that. I just clean my threads out with a tap because the oem head bolts are kinda dirty when you pull them. It crazy you can feel the head and cams flex when you install them.

 

I was just getting ideas but sounds it'll just be way down the road when it's time for a full rebuild or if the HG goes

 

Kinda too funny not to share

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUpfSUKVjYc

Love these guys !

 

Just about to watch it!

 

wish I could of finished mine in 35 mins... HOLY FREAKIN CRAP

 

Those barra motors are cool. That thing looks like it could of made 800hp and still not phase that engine. Huge engine in that little car.