Turbo BS Thread

Free time...the mysterious vixen of my dreams!

Ive always wanted to be different, now I just realize how different I wanna be

 

First up though, is to get the tuning right on the stock NA engine. I connected the Haltech up the other night and looks like my past self did alright in getting a base tune started, but I feel like I am back to square 1 again lol

 

Square 2. If it idles, it is a great starting point.

 

The complete product.

 

Oh you still punny, ain't you

Last time I was working on this baby it started, but fueling was an issue. I was trying to determine what CC the stock injectors were for my base settings. I had lots of data on my old laptop that doesn't work anymore lol

 

Bugga'

 

Stunning!! Very impressive! Congratulations.

 

My only criticism, comes from what I don't know. Is it going to run methanol, since there is not an intercooler? Or is it only going to run low boost?

I can only speculate.

 

That intake has an air to water IC in there. Go back a few of my post and you will see that it is custom. The water hoses aren't installed yet. Those 2 big AN nipples on the left side.

 

LOL... You said nipples.

 

Big nips

 

Huge nips! Those big eraser size nips. Like -12 to -16. Good eye. Made for some very tidy packaging. I like it.

We were going to do the same thing on my friend's BRZ turbo build, before he went half breed LS.

If F1 can use water to air for that duration and temperatures, then there is a lot to be said about its potential, as long as you start with a really good core.

 

Water to air is used in the more hotter and tropical climates. Does well when set up good.

 

I have two things to share: One is this tubing marker a friend of mine just picked up. The guy makes them custom to the tubing you’re using. Pretty cool concept to speed measurements up. My buddy is a pretty creative custom header building hobbiest.



The other matter is more so my looking for opinions on which adhesive to go with.

I split my intake runner top and bottom for a number of reasons and want to permanently affix the two halves.
It looks like too challenging a job with the tight spaces to TIG the seems, so my thought was 78/22 aluminum brazing rod.
It flows under 600 degrees so flows easier (possibly deeper) and minimizes warping. The few experienced guys I spoke to locally figured it’s not worth the extra effort and potential problems. They were skeptical about how far in it would actually flow, anticipating it would be very superficial in places.

So onto adhesives. The two most popular suggestions are JB Weld and Permatex Right Stuff.

Not that there’s a whole lot of fuel that reverts back up the runner passages, but the JB is more resistant and easier to sand when cleaning up the ports.
The gasket in a can is the simplest application and plenty good at holding things together and easier to work with.

I’ll be Cerakoting inside and out afterwards. That will adhere to the epoxy permanently.

Before I blasted the runners clean I wanted to try an experiment. I chemically cleaned by boiling them in white vinegar. I think I would have had to do it over night to get a worthwhile result and the evaporation made tending that sort of operation unrealistic. Would have to have some kind of pressure cooking setup.

Regardless, it was more out of curiosity than anything else that I tried. But, in doing so I discovered the runner passageways aren’t completely sealed from one other, they leak between the entire runner. I could see bubbles from the chemical reaction traveling from one end to the other.

Not sure how much it might matter, or if there will be any improvement in airflow, but now they’ll be completely sealed and independent of each other. Might make more of a difference in a forced induction application.

If you’ve never had to chance to see what these look like in two pieces, you can see the channels along the ridge and spurs of the base. There are corresponding raised beads on the inside of the upper that the factory lines with FIPG (which only partially seals them). As a result there’s considerable residual air volume remaining inside. The base of the upper has an o ring that sits in the groove and seals flat against the base; secured by the 4 security torx bolts.

 

I wouldn't cerakote the inside. You think it would flake off? Figure all the oils would get under it over time

 

It won’t flake off if prepped properly. The stuff sticks to pistons. It’s completely solvent resistant and has to be blasted off. If I use the right stuff as an adhesive I could see it disbonding from those seems and would need to address that.

 

There you go. Learn something new.

 

My boy JB.

 

I just saw Cletus make an HG out of flex seal...