Turbo BS Thread

Took 30sec with a Google search, but here you go: https://hewitt-tech.com/product/secondary-air-injection-system-bypass-kit-gen-2-plug-play/

 

Recently used an proved that it works on the '15 model.

 

I only have the Gen1- so I have to keep the pump and everything connected.
Did you use the Gen2, and you were able to rip everything out?

 

I have the gen2 and you can rip out everything except for the MAP sensor. That must remain plugged in

 

This was what we used then.

 

This isn't going as I'd hoped. Saw a Shed King video with a cooler like this and hoped I could do the same. The 5" offset from the turbo to throttle body is making this difficult. I wanted the intake as short as possible to minimize lag but I don't think I have the current ability to make that happen.





This might work. Not very appealing to the eye though. That 90 isn't the right size coupler or it would be connected.



Or maybe this but then I need to relocate the cruise control block.

 

You'll figure it out. Keep plugging away to your best idea of right.

 

Fooled around with this, and used one of the scotch brite die grinder pads. Wanted to clean up the patina just for kicks. After sanding smooth the flange. Surprised how polished it became with such little effort and no buffing compound.






Won't be reflective long. I dropped it off to Polydyn today to become ceramic coated.

Going to look great, and perform even better.

 

I feel like your corner mount is quite good. Straighter lines for connections. The water cooler won't be fighting the convection of heat from being directly over the engine nearly as much. Kind of a moot point, when you consider the water to air coolers inside a s/c though.

The center top mount. If you aimed the compressor outlet around straight up. Then you could basically do a U shaped routing into the inlet. Ex: 90° coupling off of compressor housing clocked 45° towards the w/c. > aluminum tubing with 45° bend into 90° silicone into w/c. Easier said than done, but visualized as such most simplistically.

 

That's kind of what I was thinking. Doing some quick research and was seeing the pressure drop from a 90 equating to a few feet of piping.

Is this similar to what you are saying? I think aesthetically I like this the best but it definitely isn't going to be the best performance wise.




I think over the fender will make the most sense though. When idling along trails I'm not sure if I'll have enough air moving through the radiator to prevent heat soak if it's sitting right on top of the engine.

 

Get a 90 welded on your turbo. I was just about to recommend to do you routing like that. You won't get that large of a pressure drop with 2.5" pipe. My setup still heat soaks and my engine bay is gutted out.

 

This is the configuration I was thinking of. No phenolic gaskets available?

 

If you could make with a side inlet would come come up and over right into the side. That side output needs to shoot right into the throttle body, obviously.

 

And don't have to mount with engine tilt, can level out- will make transitioning into the throttle body hella easier.

 

Be mindful of your COP temps with that thing sitting directly on them, they may need to breath.

 

So I hooked a line direct from the turbo to the wastegate. Wastegate isn't opening still. Mac valve and lines seemed just fine. Going to pull the wastegate to see if it is stuck or seized after everything cools down. Man this truck has power but I'd love to control it.

 

Any chance you got the wrong or too many springs in it?

 

Haven't touched the spring in years. Happened during my desert trip on the last day.

 

Diaphragm gone bad maybe? I assume you have or will open It soon enough to find out anyway

 

I'll update when I pull it. Should have it out tomorrow. Going to work on a few other projects.