Turbo BS Thread

I'm out of town at the moment, I was thinking do this around the block middle of the work day when I get back haha.

 

Nawww my vote is Sunday morning.

 

Had this exact issue last summer. My cat was clogging. The primary was disintegrating and clogging the secondary. No codes, but crazy low on power (worse than stock) and wouldn't build more than 1lb of boost.
Went with the URD Power Pipe, and the truck has never been better. I was doing temp checks, checking the WG actuator, going crazy. Then had a mechanic friend take a drive with me and he instantly said, "Yep, bad cat".

TL;DR- try swapping cats, or be a man and go catless. Best thing I did.

 

Did you have this done yet? https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...vice-campaign-2010-2014-4-cyl-tacomas.399785/

If you need a new cat, you might be able to get one for free. I had mine done about 2 weeks ago, zero cost, and didn’t see this service bulletin when I checked the Toyota site previously. Hopefully you will be able to take advantage of this if you need to.

 

Lol, I had that done the 2nd week I owned my truck back in 2015 because it threw a P0420 code after trying to merge on the highway. That's the one that clogged on me...again haha.
Not mad though, I sold it for $525 with it crumbling!

 

Damn good deal! Lol

 

VW/Audi t3 manifold I ordered. Getting excited as the parts pile gets bigger. $150 out of Poland is worth the gamble of fitment.

Head gasket, head bolts, oil pan, rod bearings, turbo manifold, 19# SMF(5# lighter), RS4 clutch kit known to hold 400/400 easily. To be robbed off of Jetta: front mount IC, oil pressure regulator, oil feed and return lines, water/meth setup, EGR gauge. To be ordered tonight are motor mounts, tranny mount, and stainless exhaust valves.

 

You really have a resourceful knack for making great progress on a budget.

 

Flywheel I scored off of FBook. It’s for a B5 2.7t S4 and he sent me the spent pressure plate, clutch disk, and throwout bearing for $250. These have a SAC (self adjusting clutch) like some Bimmers do. He apparently did not reset it when installed and smoked the disk. Flywheel looks fine and PP has some heat bluing.

After some lengthy digging online came to the findings a $200 Luk B7RS4 clutch kit will fit. It just needs a 2mm shim on the PP to get the step/stack right. Turns out a 5/16” lock washer from Tractor Supply slips over an m8 bolt and is exactly 2mm thick. I reset the SAC and bolt it up for a test fit. Put it in my baby press to activate the SAC and BINGO. Perfect setting. For $450 all in that ain’t too bad.

 

Wow! I am impressed!

 

Hypothetically question... Since all Toyota direct injection also are port injected periodically, would the stock ECU be able to just utilize both sets of injectors at the same time to maintain afr under some aftermarket boost? I mean in theory they have double fuel capacity needed to run properly, so 10 psi fueling shouldn't be an issue to keep up with right?

 

Spotted a post over at CTacos. Mmmmmmm.

https://youtu.be/YPt5mokvgZ8

 

That’s so cool. Wait. Why am I watching a video when I already own that motor and have a turbo a bit smaller mounted to it, lol.


Pretty cool car. Sounds good. Video was a bit long. Also watched his build video.

 

It made great power. Wonder what transmission is behind it?

@MadTaco461 , when are you going to swap in a built engine, and turn it up???

 

I'm going to need to watch his build video again. It's painful slow and I was skipping ahead. Also extremely vague on the details. I'd guess an r154. Shoot I think he is mostly stock head too.

Haha that motor is still in the back of the garage collecting dust. Crazy how busy life gets. I still got a bit left out of this motor. Keep saying I'm going to up the boost on this bad girl.

 

I can relate with life. Per this forum, it doesn't feel like ten years has past. Day to day is different though.

As with @BassAckwards and his 2TR's recent adventures, and kind of what I remember from the 2/3RZ days, stay under ~15 psi. Or what equates to about 300 whp. Might be more or less, as I don't know the output to wheel power correlations with your turbo and his blower, but no need for uncle Rodney making unexpected appearances. His visits are always a bit hectic....

 

15lbs is what mine was pushing regularly. My old setup was a Rotrex c30-94, 70mm pulley, LCE equal length header, water/meth injection, 2.5” midpipe, and 3” catback. Probably somewhere around the 300rwhp like Mark mentioned. But you definitely want to keep it under that for a stock bottom end. I think the rods are the weak link on our four bangers

 

Yeah I prefer to slowly build the side motor instead of shoot I need a motor asap. Looks like the magic number is under 15 psi.

 

Just bought the KORacing 2RZ 2.4L Turbo kit.

Any recommendations on anything I should do while installing it?

The truck doesn't have a stock exhaust anymore, so I am going to redo the whole thing anyways. I've read the trucks can handle small amounts of boost perfectly fine with the stock ECU/fuel system and HG. I ran compression numbers on my truck, and while a tad lower than id like the cylinders also are all within 2-3 of each other. Been reading old forum posts to inform myself but figured I'd ask directly as well. I've also asked Kris at KO what they would recommend.

The truck/engine has 280k so I will probably start looking for a possibly rebuild candidate as well.

It seems from reading that the EGR block off plate is a good while I'm in there mod.

For future upgrades, is there a PNP megasquirt option for these trucks?
I've tuned my E30 on MS and loved learning, but cant find anything PNP for these trucks.

 

I will leave the questions to the older gen members.

As for the EGR. If there is a way to block it off, and prevent a CEL from coming on. I'd recommend that as well.

Have you also perused through LCEPerformance.com?