Turbo BS Thread

I made a block plate for mine out of some stainless flat stock I had. Then resistored the sensor. You’ll need to use crimps cause solder won’t stick. There’s a thread somewhere on it in the 1st gen forums. I had my intake mani off when I did it and it was gunned up bad but not as bad as some others. Soaked it in some Super Clean and it hoses off decent. Some needed scraping.

 

Ive seen Chris at Paddock Motorsports say 12psi and you dont need to open the motor up. It may have actually been 14 but im erroring on the safe side. Hes probably the guy to call and talk to about Megasquirt as well. They sell a kit and can tune if you need.

I think I commented on your post on facebook and was refering to urd's pigtail not the mass air flow timing manipulator.

This is what they told me I would need, may be different for yours. https://urdusa.com/type-d-plug-n-play-harness/

 

From what I’ve read and burned to memory 6-8psi and leave everything stock the ECU will compensate. I don’t have links or documentation but a little searching will show it. Pink top injectors as well if yours doesn’t have them. Mainly for the 4 way spray vs the older 2 way spray, but the old style is supposed to keep up. Boost would be on par for the TRD supercharger that was available for a short time.

 

I removed the exhaust down wind of the CAT and same issue, then removed the CAT and boost boy spun up quick!
New CAT on order

 

There you have it!

 

Perfect. I'll reach out. I'm planning to run the stock kit at 4.5-5psi until I'm confident everything is sorted. Then I may turn up the boost.

 

Why not just remove it? You have visual inspections? I went for the URD Power Pipe faster than my turbo could spool lol

 

Wait what is the stock 2tr? Isn't it like 170 ish (I know that's from the crank but still)? Shouldn't 15 psi be at least a double from stock HP especially considering a freeer flowing exhaust from stock? And aren't the stock internals forged. I figured they would handle as much as the stock transmission would anyway. Still not bad for a 4 banger hanging in there with a trd s/c 4.0

 

Not forged well enough. Lol. I imagine that in actuality, the output was more than 300whp.

 

@Torspd how did you like having a rear mount turbo beyond the kit sucking. I've been tempted to slap one together for my 1uz.

 

Most guy online that use a megasquirt wired it up themselves instead of sourcing a PNP harness.
This was online when 2rzturbo.net was around. I never played with a megasquirt. You shouldn't need tuning until you are maxing out pink injectors.

This is probably one of the best 2/3rz turbo write ups out there.
https://www.customtacos.com/threads/2002-tacoma-3rz-turbo-build.163041/#post-1923777

 

I don't have inspections, I don't know why but just feels like right thing to do.

 

Even after all of the modifications to make it "right" I still didn't like it. The kit would have to be re-engineered. Mathematically. The power curve was horrible. Make a peak then drop off a cliff. Very weird.

Then the issue with where to properly place the air filter, for daily driving in all weather scenarios. I relocated it high into the fender well, near the bed cubby over the tire. During rain, that area gets so much mist, that the turbo would suck in enough to fill the intercooler. Many times I had to drain it.

Then the return pump for the oil drain. That was its own can of worms.

I do not recommend, unless a very skilled individual is doing it.

 

Which brand cat was in there?

 

Supercharger it is lol thanks for the input

 

Magnaflow. I had welded it in backwards if that matters

 

Couldn't have done that if it was designed to flow bilaterally. Right?

 

IDK, pic showed the port post cat when I purchased it but reading the description now says it's pre cat.

 

Yeah I think stock is 159hp/180tq. More than likely yeah it was near the upper end of what the stock components are good for. I heard the weak link was the pistons and they’re good to 400hp. After ruining my junk though, it seems like 350 crank or 300 rwhp is about the most a stock 4 banger can handle. I did about every bolt on there was and then a few other supporting mods as well so mine was probably in that ballpark. When I took it apart there weren’t any signs of knock on the piston top or on the head/combustion chamber. I’m not sure if the stock rods are forged, I thought they were cast, but I could be wrong.

 

I think the crank is the only forged part