Turbo BS Thread

And i have two videos the first is with the turbo disconnected from the manifold. The second is with it connected.

 

The tacoma. I just chopped off just the MAF wire harness from the 4runners.

 

right off the bat your intake air temp sensor is reading -40f. This means its either broken or disconnected and this will 100% cause a rich condition and failure to go into closed loop, I'd start there.

EDIT
EDIT 2

 

@Torspd You using a standalone?

 

I'll go find the wiring for your 2001 V6 and see what the MAF wiring is.

 

I noticed that myself. The THA and E2 wires are the same for both the 97 4runner and 2003 tacoma. Should i assume its the same for an 01 tacoma. -40 reads as an open circuit.

 

I appreciate it, i find it odd i have no codes for the engine running that rich either.

 

ok so, for a 2001 5VZ


Currently you have it wired
Grey to black with stripe
white/red stripe to white blue stripe
black/white stripe to red with white stripe
green to yellow/green stripe
yellow/green stripe to brown/black stripe

according to this wiring diagram I've included it should be: (starting from the air inlet of the MAF as the 1st wire and corresponding to the original wires from the truck)
black/white stripe (from MAF to truck wire) to white/red stripe
brown/white stripe (from MAF to truck wire) to black/white stripe
yellow/green stripe (from MAF to truck wire) to grey
red/white stripe (from MAF to truck wire) to yellow/green stripe
white/blue stripe (from MAF to truck wire) to green

it should look like this (in theory)

 

I've learned that Toyota keeps very very few Tacoma/4Runner wiring harnesses the same either in wire color or pin layout. Why they chose to change everything every year model and trim level I have no clue, but in general they are all a little different, very little crossover.

 

Also, not that it matters yet, but the MAF used on the V6 trucks are very sensitive to disturbances in airflow, or mine is atleast. I'd recommend moving the MAF farther away from that BOV if you can, if not its not a huge deal but it may cause some drivability issues down the road.

 

Bov should be before the maf in a blow through setup so you are not venting metered air.

I also had issues when my maf was too close to throttle body. Moving it further away helped a ton.

 

An implausible IAT signal means the ECU is stuck in CLOSED loop or OPEN loop? My ‘99 3rz continues to run rich in open loop and I purchased one of these 3” Spectre MaaF housing kits and ended up using the smallest insert. Then began symmetrically whittling away at it to obtain a balance between engine speed/air velocity across the sensor. At WOT and start at mid RPMs around 0.7v and lean out to 0.1-0.3ish at 5000rpm. Whereas with the OEM housing would be 0.8+ as soon as it went OPEN loop. I believe the fueling map posted previously as incorrect because the numbers I was chasing is what it showed for CLOSED loop. Otherwise I’m lean AF. Plus it would backfire every now and then when 0.8v.




Kind of hard to make out. I started with about 1” fingers trailing towards the sensor and shortened those to about 1/2”. Then removed every other one. Then shortened some more and removed some more until what you see here.


Installed it doesn’t look like much but believe me it’s a helluva difference. The ECU uses MAF readings to extrapolate a fuel map to follow while disregarding the o2 feedback. Although I can see the o2 findings on my Torque app.

 

Interesting @Brake Weight good way to trim the factory fuel map without electronics.

 

I started with one of those from Spectre and it didn't last long before it cracked since it is plastic @MadTaco461 tried to warn me... I needed to learn the hard way... Just a heads up to maybe have a good aluminum one tracked down for when that Spectre craps out

 

The plastic of the Spectre gave me the flexibility to adjust the airflow. I keep the stock housing under the seat.

 

It will almost always default to open loop especially on older vehicles like these since the open loop table is a predefined table not reliant on sensors, atleast not fully. Also colder air needs more fuel and I believe he had said he was running relatively rich, so in my head it adds up, but im willing to be wrong.

 

Lol just realized I had said OPEN LOOP not CLOSED LOOP. I'll go fix that real quick hah

 

I was about to unplug my IAT sensor and see how it’d act. Then figured you had it backwards.

 

The yellow and green wires, look like there is a problem with the splicing on the left side.

 

Yes I am. A Haltech.