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Turbo BS Thread

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by Clay_916, Mar 20, 2017.

  1. Oct 8, 2022 at 5:55 PM
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    Bw s256 turbo with 3 in glass pack dumped pre axle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front . C channel front bumper. Maxxis bighorn 255/85/16
    ShiftyShank likes this.
  2. Oct 8, 2022 at 6:27 PM
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Well now. Turbo upgrade? Lol
     
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  3. Oct 8, 2022 at 7:06 PM
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    Bw s256 turbo with 3 in glass pack dumped pre axle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front . C channel front bumper. Maxxis bighorn 255/85/16
    Stock is only .8 bar sooo 12 ish psi? I feel like that's pretty low for a diesel. I told dad we could up the boost and inject propane and take it from 250 ft/lb to 400... At 2k rpms :burnrubber:

    That is the 1kd so the one they ran till like 2003 or something SOHC instead of DOHC in the newer ones but it has higher compression than the newer one and is more reliable according to a quick Google search
     
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  4. Oct 10, 2022 at 8:15 PM
    ShiftyShank

    ShiftyShank Oof

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    I have more questions.
    key reason for the plug and play situation is to be able to return the truck to a prior state if need be for any reason.
    I do intend to continue to daily and wheel the taco.

    Follow up:
    I looked into the Boomslang and SNP.
    SNP looks mega convenient for a stupid dollar tag. missing details around the future. (MAP/MAF for closed loop adjustment with temp and altitude change.?)
    and boomslang looks like the more appealing route because of the happy medium of plug and play. and mandatory involvement for configuration. and obviously $1000+ difference.

    1)
    Though I haven't called either company yet to get the situation on air temp/and MAP/MAF stuff (I Will after this business trip).
    Both lack on websites for these details and I wanted to know who has used either and which ways you went about managing air temp/ closed loop balance with temp change/altitude change as this seems to be my last hang up at the moment.

    2)
    Has anyone worked a config that maintains the OBDII ports for Emission reasons?

    3)
    I'm Kind of set on Haltech because of the boomslang plug; with this said. For what reason would one want the 2000 or 2500 over the 750 since they can all control (min.) 6inj/ig modules. Seems like more available inputs is all I read but still so fresh I'm not sure why I'd need them later.

    4)
    Good standalone Alternatives would be best with Link; Megasquirt and AEM?

    5)
    As for injectors; moving up to 440cc should be ample if I do not intend to cross over the 400hp threshold; correct?

    Thanks in advanced. Enjoy a picture of my baby shitty Chinese turbo that came in yesterday, in the mean time.:luvya:

    Snapchat-585016775.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2022
    Yota X, BananaMan and Jon64l like this.
  5. Oct 10, 2022 at 8:55 PM
    Reh5108

    Reh5108 Well-Known Member

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    I've been eyeing Paddock Performance and there plug N play with megasquirt 2. Half the price of SNP.

    I do believe that you can retain obdII with the 2500 Haltech. Can't remember his handle at the moment but the blown first gen with a ton of miles went this route I believe.
     
    ShiftyShank[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Oct 11, 2022 at 1:44 PM
    ShiftyShank

    ShiftyShank Oof

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    Word Another website to dive into. thanks man!
     
  7. Oct 11, 2022 at 6:37 PM
    ShiftyShank

    ShiftyShank Oof

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    Please poke holes in this post.

    my CX kit just got delivered today(Headers/turbo/WG/ downpipe). going to do the charge piping / IC myself maybe no IC not sure what space i have for it. - Solving that one on the fly I think.

    I'm pulling the trigger this week.
    -Haltech 2500
    -boomslang Harness.
    -If no one has something bad to say about the Haltech built in MAP sensor I'm using it.
    -Gonna splice the GM IAT Sensor.
    -Insert Nameless bung for IAT sensor.(Suggestions welcome)
    -Haltech AFR Harness/sensor set up.
    -Insert Nameless bung for AFR sensor. (Suggestions welcome)
    -650cc injectors
    -AEM 340 e85 compatible fuel pump (Not sure which offset variation we need for the taco ATM)
    -NO extra bottles. (NOS/METH/Water)
    -Ordering a Crank shaft position sensor to have on STDBY as I'm sitting at about 315k on the ODO.

    Configuration goal: conservative 8-10lbs of boost.

    Before I start ordering this list and wait for everything to arrive I want to know if anyone see's anything minor or critical I am missing.
    I am aiming to over engineer to future proof, future mods.
     
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  8. Oct 11, 2022 at 6:53 PM
    Jon64l

    Jon64l Well-Known Member

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    @ShiftyShank

    8-10psi is totally doable. I'm at 8psi now with a Aem piggy back for 3 plus years. Engine is great, just ripped it at the lake today.

    Vibrant has nice stainless O2 bungs, but if you order a wide band guage kit they usually come with a weld bung.

    Gm Iat is 3/8 Npt IF I remember correctly. Can look at one tomorrow.
    Locash racing has excellent ones for welding.

    Haltec should be awesome!

    Remember to have the CX manifold flanges decked by a local fabricator or machine shop. I've seen a few in the past that are not flat.

    Definitely get a intercooler on there, makes a huge difference. Doesn't need to be a big one. I use a Garrett core and made my own tanks. It's 24" wide, 6.25" tall and 3" thick. I think it was rated at 375 continuous hp, so can definitely do more in bursts. Edit* the core is rated at 475hp.* It leaves alot of direct airflow to the Ac core and radiator. Smaller core is less volume to fill for better transient response, same goes for Ic piping. I run near ambient intake air temps, especially on the highway.

    Good luck on your project.
     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2022
    ShiftyShank likes this.
  9. Oct 11, 2022 at 6:55 PM
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    turbo 05 prerunner trd off road DC
    Bw s256 turbo with 3 in glass pack dumped pre axle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front . C channel front bumper. Maxxis bighorn 255/85/16
    Not the fun parts of it and that could be why it isn't listed, but oil feed/return lines and locations, vacuum/boost lines, catch can or whatever you plan on doing with your pcv valve, and a check valve for you brake booster
     
    ShiftyShank[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Oct 11, 2022 at 7:06 PM
    ShiftyShank

    ShiftyShank Oof

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    Thats rad man! all stock internals?

    Thanks for the reply. All helpful information!

    All the reading I've done, haven't seen anything about them CX not being flat. Thanks for that!




    Figured I was set and clear on the not fun parts; return line is getting bunged straight south of the turbo back to the pan. Was thinking of just a T fitting off the pressor sensor to feed the turbo.
    but haven't even bat an eye at the brake booster.. good call.

    Thanks guys :D
     
    yota243[QUOTED] likes this.
  11. Oct 11, 2022 at 8:29 PM
    Reh5108

    Reh5108 Well-Known Member

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    Even at 5 psi an intercooler makes a surprising difference. I went with an air/water setup.
     
    ShiftyShank likes this.
  12. Oct 12, 2022 at 4:43 PM
    Boomtacoma01

    Boomtacoma01 Well-Known Member

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    Well I finally got to go test the 2rz turbo this past weekend. Drove it around a bit. Motor hesitated at mid range rpm’s. When I was going 10-15mph the vss said I was doing 158 mph lol. I unplugged the pigtails and it was golden after that. I could actually push my 39s at speed in high range which I couldn’t do before. Low range was a beast as well. The manual controller made it possible to start in 1-4 gear easily. The truck is a different beast all together. Only problem was not tightening the rad mount to the core support. My fan ate the radiator on the last day. No biggie I guess. New radiator with a SPAL fan showed up today. Should be back in business soon.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2022
  13. Oct 12, 2022 at 7:38 PM
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    I have been anxious to hear how it ran for you. Now we know. Seems like you've mostly gotten it sorted out, and I am glad for you. A few little punch list things, and it'll be solid for a long time.

    You didn't happen to get any videos or pictures while you were out there, did you???
     
  14. Oct 13, 2022 at 5:47 AM
    Boomtacoma01

    Boomtacoma01 Well-Known Member

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    The only video I got was when the fan ate the radiator. I Walked Twister and somehow managed to keep my exhaust in tact.
     
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  15. Oct 13, 2022 at 8:06 PM
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards 2TR-FTE

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    Hey folks, need a little help. Noticed today that the filter on my valve cover is pushing oily vapor out and sounds like it’s hissing at idle. Would this indicate a bad PCV valve? I was under the impression this should be drawing in clean air and not pushing oily vapor out
    5D63C193-4C78-40F2-BCCA-A4846407B328.jpg
     
  16. Oct 13, 2022 at 8:13 PM
    ShiftyShank

    ShiftyShank Oof

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    Your pcv is meant to release pressure from the crank case. No air will be drawn. Unless you've just removed the pcv and vented to atmosphere.
    If it's hissing it's probably under pressure. If it's under pressure it's probably time for a new one as it's no longer performing its function

    Edit:

    Did you remove the pcv and filter on the valve cover?
    Or did you put a filter on your pcv on the valve cover?
     
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  17. Oct 13, 2022 at 8:23 PM
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards 2TR-FTE

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    The outlet of the pcv runs to a catch can and then filter on the valve cover and catch can outlet goes to the fresh air inlet pipe for the turbo

    thanks for the info, im gonna swap mine out, I had one hanging around for a rainy day, just need to make time to take the valve cover off
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2022
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  18. Oct 14, 2022 at 4:16 AM
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    You don't need to remove the valve cover to remove the PCV valve. It is tight, but can be done.

    We drilled Mike's valve out, if I remember correctly. That way it could never go "bad".
     
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  19. Oct 14, 2022 at 10:01 AM
    ShiftyShank

    ShiftyShank Oof

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    This was my follow up question for turbo people. When moving to a catch can couldn't you just plumb the valve cover(s) to the catch can without a pcv?
    Only point in the pcv is to prevent crank case pressurization - That said putting an air filter to vent the catch can would be fine to adapt? (Without pcv inline)

    I'm tryna plan ahead.
     
  20. Oct 14, 2022 at 10:22 AM
    Jon64l

    Jon64l Well-Known Member

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    You could take it off. I left mine. I hooked a hose from each valve cover, Y them together, then that line goes to catch can. From can the line goes to intake pipe pre turbo. The can was vented at one point but I could smell vapor every so often, so I just put it back into intake track and let the engine cool it like normal.

    I actually just emptied it yesterday, very little came out. I do this about every 2 or 3 oil changes. It's definitely separating and condensing the vapor.

    I wouldn't run just filters off covers. 1 smell, 2 little leaks of oil.
     
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