Turbo BS Thread

Well, what did you learn, it's all on the exam so better review now.

 

I learned I don't know jack shit

The fuel pump you recommended is already ordered.

I have no idea if the stock injectors have ever been touched so ill probably just order a set instead of waiting for a cleaning service since it's still my DD

I like the innovative dual guage with AFR and Boost in one. Not sure if AEM has a similar dual guage available.

Because I've got a 5vz I should probably replace the cam position sensors in the valley for GM style.

I'll definitely be switching to heavier oil and probably the tundra oil filters.

I'll be making a home depot boost leak tester.

oil catch can for the PCV is already on its way.

Really need to get my hands on the CX Racing kit to see what I can use and what I'll still need.

 

Check over all of your vacuum hoses, and replace any that look too aged. Some parts of the vacuum routing will change with a turbo addition. Especially/primarily the PCV routing and connection with the intake to valve covers.

 

Well. I’m really wanting to switch over to turbo. Any recommendations on turbo for a 3.4l? Coming from the TRD Supercharger so I would definitely prefer low end torque over top end power.

 

A small borg warner EFR for packaging and spool. @Torspd probably has a good suggestion

 

Did a google on the EFRs and I most of what comes up are internally wastegated.

most of what I’ve read seems to recommend an external waste gate for most applications, especially for NA to turbo. Considering these turbos are engineered for racing and aftermarket applications is there anything that sets the EFR waste gates apart from more traditional or OEM style internal waste gates?

I would prefer an internal setup but not if it has a higher potential for boost creep and less efficient spooling at lower pressures.

 

The EFR series are OEM grade internally gated and recirculated turbos. I had one on my BMW and it was a relatively small turbo that spooled at low RPM and the gate was easily able to keep it from creeping since it was effectively a bottleneck at 14psi on a high compression 3.0L engine. You risk boost creep to a higher degree with larger turbos that have more potential for flow. Smaller turbo will limit your potential peak but will give you a larger usable RPM band in boost if you're not concerned about very high psi/horsepower. The 5VZ doesn't rev high anyway.

 

I'm running a BW EFR 7163 on my 2.7L and it has been great. It will support up to 550hp. I came from having a URD SC before and the difference in low end torque is substantial. Definitely recommend!

 

Posts like this make me want to awd swap a Tacoma some day.

 

That's a good engine and trans. But their AWD is a kinda odd variable clutch unit that isn't designed for high load.

 

AWD and boost. What more could one ask for?

 

Long travel?

 

t4r awd transfer is probably a reality. Not sure about the power it can handle. What will be cool is to have an electric front diff like the corvette has.

 

That's kinda what that BMW system uses, you can vary the amount of front engagement and what kind of traction response turns it on or off

 

Here's my starting point. Total boost noob, literally had to Google the different between a wastegate and blow off valve but I'm not completely useless with a wrench.


Technically the turbo is on the truck now right?

GT35, T4 .68AR, ball bearings.
CX Racing manifolds.
2.5" intercooler pipes.
Aeromotive 340 fuel pump.
PCV oil catch can.

when I bought the truck it had a few evap leak codes so I've gone through and replaced damn near all the vacuum and evap system so no old vacuum lines here.
Maybe I couple Silicone lines that shouldn't be Silicone but I didn't know that at the time. Thanks @Speedytech7 for the heads up.

Now for a little word vomit
Maybe this would be better posted on my build thread (Little Red Creeper) since it's mostly me collecting my thoughts and parts but I welcome and look forward to the collective insight, suggestions, and feedback

Looking at TiAl wastegates but I don't know what size to use 38/44mm there's also different mounting styles, I'm assuming I won't be using the Vband style

I'm going to pull the trigger on this Innovate Motorsports Boost/AFR combo guage and a 52mm A pillar mount.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/inn-38920

LCE has a nice manual "Boost Tee" boost controller that should be enough for my application
https://www.lceperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1072103

I haven't decided on a Blow Off Valve and might just skip that for now


I need Oil feed and return lines, not sure on the correct AN sizes (or what AN even means).

Still need to make a decision on injectors.
I need to replace mine just from a maintenance standpoint but feel like I might as well put in slightly larger injectors.

I don't plan on using meth injection just yet but believe it will be in the future, heat can be brutal around here.

Spark plugs are fresh coppers from the dealership so ill just gap them a little tighter.

I don't think I've seen anyone using a snorkel with a turbo so that's something ill have to figure out or remove.

 

Congrats and welcome to the club.

For that kit you would use the older style Tial 35/38mm 2 bolt diamond flange wastegate. Don't buy ebay junk, even if it says Tial. Lots of fakes. Only buy from a real name brand shop. Spending a little more on a quality gate is worth it.

You could move to a V band gate, 38 or 44 but will need to modify the manifold and dump.

Next skip the boost controller for now. That money has other holes to fill. Just run a low psi spring and be happy.

Just because the plugs are new doesn't mean they are correct. They need to be a colder heat range. Good call on knowing you need a tighter gap though. Ik22 are good, or Bkr-7e (must regap).

You could probably get away with 4psi with stock injectors. I couldn't rev out stockers with Trd SC without leaning out. They were good to 4k rpm and 6psi. Turbo can flow sooo much more, and IC helps alot too.

Let the games begin.

 

Curious how many people here are running turbos with internal waste gates. I would prefer to dump back into exhaust and not worry about trying modify/to tie back into the exhaust. But the main goal is to simply but not if it’s going to create an issue where I’d lose important tuneability and or safety measures. I’d hate to kneecap myself right out the gate if external is safer and or has less issue in the long run. Wouldn’t plan on going over 9/10 psi.

Safety is priority 1 and simplifying the setup with less little things that need tweaking or maintaining so I won’t find myself pulling things apart looking for gremlins is also very much preferred.

 

I made a custom airbox to still maintain snorkel function. I need to make a new one as my intake position changed with the new manifold setup. It does make a surprising difference in how cold the air is flowing past the MAF sensor. Since pulling air from the engine bay it's typically 15* hotter than ambient. With the snorkel connected it was usually within 3* of ambient.

 

Its my nooby understanding that the internal waste gate helps to make it a smoother transaction when dumping making it easier on the compressor in the long run.

@Jon64l I was under the impression that the IK22's were better suited for a SC and that the one step cooler IK2O's were right on the money and planed to use those as my next set of plugs but If cooler is always better ill go with IK22's

 

Glad to hear it's doable, would love to see how you've done it. I've always been annoyed at the bottle neck under the fender from the snorkel to the stock intake. It wasn't like that on my 2nd gen snorkel. I would like to at least replace that with some of this aluminum 2.5 intercooler piping or something similar