Turbo BS Thread

How about oil drain in the pan. Obviously, I want to install that as high in the pan as I can but googling around I also read you don’t want to install it in the vicinity of the windage gray to avoid oil slosh.

Just looking at some pictures of the 5vz it doesn't look like this would be an issue as the windage gray is above the whole pan except for a gap on the passenger front. So looks like middle of the sump area of the pan is ideal.

Anything to kind in mind when doing this so I won’t have to go back?

 

The pan is easy if you can weld. I used a 90° bend of 1" Dom with a -10an welded onto it. I trimmed the angle of the bend a little to sit away from block and behind Ac pump. Put it as high up on pan that i coild get the Tig around, between the bolts that hold pan to block and marked it. Then just remove, clean, prep, weld, paint.

I used the 90 up so the hose end fitting would never be at or below oil level. Figured ot would have less chance to leak over time. Also I can pull the turbo/line without leaking any oil.

If you are 4x4, you will have to pull the front diff.

 

I'm thinking I might be able to use this Spectra box between the snorkel and the turbo IF it will fit.

The 4" outlet will match up perfect to the turbo. A little more than 10 inches in length seems reasonable but I honestly don't know how much space will be available in front of the turbo.

Any thoughts?

 

I would wait to buy anything extra until you mock up. Takes longer but wastes less money this way.

Not much room in there. Not a Cx kit but pretty similar placement.

 

Words of Wisdom ^^^

 

I would make sure that the filter has enough surface area to support your HP goals and CFM requirements. I was looking at those for myself previously, but found that I needed to size up and then it woudl be far to big to fit anywhere in the engine bay. Would be even more of a problem with the location of the turbo on your setup.

 

I could save some good cash if I build my own intercooler setup instead of using the CX stuff. looking at this silicone intake intercooler in the link below. I don’t think I’ll be making more than 300 with 8-9 psi so should be fine. Other option is a treadstone.

I guess the one concern with putting my own together I have is getting the MAF reading correctly. I’m going to have to neck down somewhere for the MAF factory sized connector and not really sure if it’s as simple as just installing in a straight run of it it’s going to require trial and error.

anything I should know?

https://directpsonline.com/product/treadstone-tr6-intercooler-400hp/


https://www.siliconeintakes.com/front-mount-intercooler/heat-exchanger-p-207.html

 

I would probably lean towards the treadstone Ic out of those two, but either will work.

https://performancemrp.com/i-304976.../performancemrp.com/search.html?q=2000+tacoma



I run 2.5" piping off compressor to Ic.
2.75" from Ic to TB. I cut the lips off that maf housing, beveled the inside edges, and welded it to the 2.75" pipe. My truck is 96 so I had to convert to the 2000 style maf that can drop in to the housing. Had to switch some wires at the plug, works fine otherwise.
You could run 2.5" from Ic for the first couple/few feet, cut down on volume to fill and have a little more clearance.

 

Or pull the engine...



Any 5VZ folks know what the fuel rail o-ring size is for injectors, 11mm? 14mm?

 

11mm.

While that's out you should plate the engine mount brackets on the frame. Cut the existing horizontal plate that the mount bolts to off and put on a thicker one. Then plate from this down to the frame.

 

Thanks!

 

Consider making a quick fixture and do 1 side at a time so you don't mess up the hole locations. I had to do mine with engine in after I broke the mount (on 2 trucks) and it was a pita.

 

What do you mean? What holes get messed up?

 

Nevermind, I see what you mean now, I was going to plate the underside of those and add a gusset, but it is worth doing the tops too huh? @Jon64l

 

The tops are thin and weak for that heavy iron 6 to be bouncing around offroad. I used 3/16" plate, perfect for the distance the cut took out under the thin factory top plate. Overall height remained the same this way. No trouble since.

 

I plated mine while the motor is in. So many bird shit welds. Can't get the MIG in there. That is all getting fixed when I need to pull the motor.

 

What are you guys doing for oil feed line. I remember the STS turbo kit uses a T on the sender port on the block. But would it be any better/worse to use one of those aluminum oil filter spacers with the ports? That would make it easy and give you an extra port for an oil pressure gauge.

 

Don't use a sandwich plate, it just gives you 1" less room for an oil filter, there is a filtered oil pressure bung right next to it you can tee off of.

 

Both are good options. I cut up a old knock sensor and welded it to a T. The block is BSPT but most fittings are NPT. 1/8 npt is larger than 1/8 bspt, so less threads engage.

 

Good call @Speedytech7

There is a 8mm Allen plug under the oil pressure sensor that shares the same passage. Definitely use this.