Turbo BS Thread

Clock the cartridge so that they are 12 and 6.

 

Hi everyone, first time posting here. I've done three separate turbo setups on my truck (1st gen 5VZ-FE) until I am now finally satisfied. Did a TON of research before and during each of these projects from the science to the different parts available. Figured I'd offer my knowledge if it can help anyone.

1. ebay GT35 @7PSI & all work done by me
- Split Second Piggyback, 440cc
2. Twin Focus ST K03s @ 4PSI (never was satisfied with the plumbing to turn it up) & all work done by me - one low mount, one high mount, both passenger side
- Split Second Piggyback, 440cc
3. Twin Focus ST K03s @ 9PSI and climbing & all work done by me - both top passenger mount, fabbed together
- Haltech 2500, 630cc

 

Oh you can't tell us you twin turbo'd your truck and not post pictures! We gotta see this! It sounds awesome!

 

@unstpible I had a similar issue on mine. I uses a steel flange and bent stainless tube to snake around, then put a -10 fitting on the end. I then heat wrapped it.

 

Got some stuff in the 2nd half of the first page of my build thread haha - see signature

 

Progress




I too am running into the oil drain flange issue. Best angle I can get is it at the 5 o'clock position, but not with my 10an flange, using the barbed flange the cx racing kit come with. So going to have to fenagle something together to connect to my 10an lines

@unstpible I did get better v bands for the cross pipe but could not get them to work, wasnt enough give in them for the amount of tolerance on the cx crosspipe. So I opted to use the ones in the kit but with the better nuts from the better clamps..

 

Can you clock the center cartridge where the drain is on the other side of the flange? Closer to the firewall. You may have to pull it out of the turbine housing to make that happen.

 

Be careful with the spectre filters. if it has the metal button in the middle of the cone, that's a no no. I ran one on my setup and it only lasted a month til the engine temps melted the glue off the button and I heard it hitting the blades of the inlet side of the turbo. I was fortunate that it didn't go through.

 

I have no clue if this is a good idea or not but does anybody ever use a banjo bolt for the drain. That would solve the space constraint

 

I have not seen a banjo drain. Maybe if the holes in the bolt were drilled out and the hose immediately turned down. Don't want to back up flow and blow the seals.

 

Some OEMs may do just that. I don't know.

 

I am pretty sure that I have only seen it for feed and coolant.

 

Would still need custom stuff made. Easier to rotate the way you said and hopefully a 45 fits in there. Otherwise do what I did Imo.

 

In other news, I'm in piping hell, making this all route isn't fun.

 

good call, yes it is that model. Guess I will be looking for a new one...

Yea I can and its a worse angle that direction. Its a .82 exhaust housing so I think that is causing the issues for me that direction, unstpible has the .63 I believe and why he can cluck straight up and down.

 

What's peaking out in the corner?

 

Water to air intercooler core from a V12 Mercedes. They're plentiful and cheap on eBay and way more dense/nicely built than a lot of the new cores offered.

 

Very nice! Where is the other inlet/outlet located? What's wrong with the situation?

 

I'll take a picture tomorrow, it shoots out right in-between the edge of the radiator shroud and the power steering pulley, I'll be close down there but with any luck the 90° coupler will clear well enough to get it shooting back up toward the throttle body

 

Maybe you can trim the coupler leg for more room. Or weld a bend directly to Ic outlet, then use a coupler. Also from the pic angle, i would say cut approx 1" off the throttle body coupler to get away from turbine. Otherwise looks great!