Turbo BS Thread

Starting a little early

 

Looks like the Toyota manifold MLS gaskets are off the table all together because the little rivits holding the layers together are in the way of the CX manifold flanges

I guess if it was absolutely necessary I could possibly drill out the two rivets on the far left and right but I have extra manifold gaskets on hand for a reason haha.

It's going fairly smooth so far except for smacking my hand while breaking a nut loose with a wrench. Also one of the bottom exhaust stud nuts slipped from my fingers and bounced around the engine bay without ever reaching the floor so I'm playing a little eye spy.

I can also finally see the source of my oil leak on the drivers side valve cover. I was expecting it to be the half moon but it seems to be a little further to the right

Not very easy to get a picture up in there

 

You could drill or die grind a relief in the manifold flange where the rivets are.

 

Definitely some leaking cam plugs haha, mine were bad too

 

This^^^That way, all future gaskets will also work.

 

Solid advice, It shall be done.

Today's progress so far

I got the oil feed line put together and installed using a T from the oil pressure sensor. I would have preferred to install it in the plug just below that but the fitting I had planned to use was too small


Speaking of oil, all my catch cans are full so we won't be switching to 10w40 and the tundra oil filter today.

I got the new spark plugs in.
The ones I took out all looked about the same


I should be hearing from the guy building the oil drain fitting later today, really wish I wasn't waiting on that piece but if it's what I need it will be worth the wait. Hopefully he will also be able to surface a couple of the V Band flanges, I realized yesterday the one coming off the drivers side manifold is pretty bad

 

I installed new ones when I did the valve cover gaskets but that's when I cracked the valve cover so I'm guessing I forgot to reseal it when I replaced the valve cover

 

Do you need a valve cover? I should have some in a box.

Also that black oil feed fitting looks like it's straight thread going into the T. Does it have a inverted flair or are they both Npt to seal? Just looks like it's sticking out too far.

Be sure to check clearance with alternator and it's wiring too.

 

I bought a replacement Doorman cover after cracking the old one. Maybe I could paint yours and swap it out when I redo the cam seal, definitely worth considering.

The fitting on the end of the T does stick out a little further than I like but it feel good. The female threads on the T are NPT and I think the fitting is straight I was considering cutting some of the threads off to make it a little shorter but I don't believe it's necessary. I have an NPT fitting too but it only goes in a couple threads so I stuck with the strait one. as for clearances I've got the hose installed on there now and it looks good I just forgot to get a picture but I will when I go back out there (I got washed up and had a late breakfast/lunch)

 

I would recommend replacing that fitting with Npt. Straight thread doesn't seal properly without a O ring or inverted flair. If you feel the Npt doesn't thread in far enough, get a Tap and remove the T from block and tap it deeper. You may need to push a pilot drill into it so your Tap doesn't bottom out.

Which side valve cover do you need? I can probably get it in Priority Mail tomorrow if we can work something out.

 

Definitely follow the steps Jon listed. Or you'll be back in there very soon, and it'll be a headache. We don't want that for you.

 

I had to 90* off of that to get down and around the alternator wiring

 

I'll have to get a 1/8 NPT tap to follow the advice but it shall be done.

As for the valve cover I'm not in a rush to get back to that. The drivers side (with the oil fill cap) is the one with a leaking cam plug but if you have a set I might be interested in both so I can take my time cleaning them before painting and installing but that's a project for the future.

For those following along I want to update on the rivits in the OEM MLS gasket.

After further investigation I don't think drilling out the manifold is necessary. The CX manifold hits the rivits but the engine side doesn't come into contact with it

 

How close can I put the BOV to the MAF?

It's a turbosmart 25mm dual port recirculating BOV if that makes a difference it's attached to the Silicone coupler with my plyers sticking out right there by the radiator cap in the picture

 

Definitely not getting the billet aluminum oil drain fitting I was hoping for

 

That's probably a fine place for it. You are probably not using the recirc portion of it?

 

Tonight's progress shot

I hadn't intended to reuse the Airaid intake tube but damn it's a near perfect fit

 

Recirc is all plumbed in. Enters back into the system just before the IC underneath the air filter.

 

Well done for being thorough.

 

If the hood closes, then it's a perfect fit.