Turbo BS Thread

Pedal feel is heavier than stock but not overly so and it behaves excellently in the rocks. Last trip I really liked it.

 

Just ordered a new clutch kit from Lce. Supposed to hold 385 ft/lbs. Will report back on pedal feel and bite once that is swapped in.

 

Interested on your input. I thought about that clutch but I have the one right below that one.

 

That's also the one I have currently (pro). It's 2 years old now and hasn't given me any problem until today. Drives really nice. Been slowly creeping up the duty cycle on the controller. Did a hard 1-2 shift and the revs went up quick but the truck didn't move as quick. Then the smell. Dang it. So now its time to turn the page.

 

Look at the import drag scene for a superior clutch setup. A stronger under dash clutch pedal spring can take a lot of the stiffness out.

 

I'm more interested in life with this one, I love the bite of a ceramic puck clutch but they are supposed to be driven more like they're binary. They eat the diaphragm and flywheel a lot when slipped so I think slipping it in the rocks is going to be really hard to do and hard on clutch parts themselves. That's the only reason I went with the highest rated organic clutch I could, which Exedy rates at 272wtq, back that up for drivetrain loss and its about 326crank tq. Clutch is the one thing that should always be crank numbers, dunno why they use at the wheels, but RA actually spells it out thankfully. The only confusing part about the numbers given here is the 420lb number, not sure what the different between at the crank and at the clutch would be since they should be a unit.

 

I like the spring idea. I was thinking of playing with the pedal to get more leverage. Also thought about a clutch booster. Just gonna test it out first and see.

@Speedytech7 I suppose I will have to change my driving a bit. If I can get another 2 years or so out of it I would be happy. 1 year is acceptable. Good thing it's a R151, lower ratio 1st and 2nd. I might re cam the throttle body so when it opens the truck doesn't snap forward as hard. This way I can leave it in 1st with the clutch out and not slip it. Will see.

 

You could always take a little bit of timing out of your leave if you want to cut down your reaction there.

 

Good call. Maybe it's time for a rotary trim knob.

 

Lightning fast shipping from Lce!

 

Just thought I would share, last minutes to get 10% off from LCE on your yota goodies. Use Code cybermonday or CYBER10 to get discount. I used the first one on a new heavy weight flywheel.

 

10% could add up quick.

 

Stupid super duty taking up my Toyota mod time.

 

I can kind of relate. Lol. Stupid BRZ.

 

Idk if 10% off would even matter

 

Hey what do you guys think about buying a used turbo? Here’s the listing

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1558660126...OQpLJUBR0W&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

The compressor wheel looks too damaged. I personally would avoid it at that price.

 

I was thinking the same but there is an OBO option. What would be a good price to offer if I factored in a rebuild kit/labor? I’d rather buy new but wouldn’t pass up a sweet deal if it’s accepted.

 

I dont like how the owner considers those "slight nicks". It basically looks like it ate an allen wrench. The rest of the wheel must be beat up too, not that it matters since we already know it needs a wheel. Definitely do bearings too, who knows what kind if "slight" loads they took. You might ask around to a reputable builder for a quote, but I personally would pass on this. Too much headache and unknown. Maybe @Torspd has some input.