Turbo BS Thread

Pretty sure my little daily driver Corolla chucked it's timing belt off today. Cranks with no compression. Luckily the previous owner left a used timing belt in the trunk so guess what I'm throwing in...

 

Phooey

 

Any good sources for a radiator replacement that won’t be $400+?

 

With or without current inflation?

Which vehicle?

 

@Brake Weight
Performance Radiator in Phoenix.

I have one in the 4runner for 8 years, 1 in my Tacoma that sees 4x4 duty and boost. No issues.

There are 2 versions, one is shorter than the other.

 

This will be entertaining.

https://youtu.be/BL3pKztZirA?si=dtiIqUeMnNWn8C0O

 

Whose ready to get fukin tuned!

 

Back on this note. Finally found the problem. So the ebcs gets power from the main 12v that goes over the engine harness. Well the 12v power broke at the crimp. I didn't want to unwind up to the crimp so I soldered to the nearest connector that uses the same 12v feed. Back to being boosty and no more cel. Guess Subaru crimp connections are kinda crap. Even Cobb did a write up on it for the EJ motors. This was before the solder, but I tapped into the exhaust cam sensor to make sure the cel went away.

 

If it works, and the ecu is happy, then it works.

What does the Subaru crimp connector look like?

*Edit* For some reason I thought you were using Subaru connectors on your Taco. I looked lore closely at the photo.

 

Yeah this was on my car. 25yr old engine harness on the taco still going strong even with all my patch repair wires on it.
This is what a subaru crimp looks like when you unwind the wire harness. I just replaced it with solder.

 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C2pA6o2PUv3/?igsh=MW1na2t5dGJkbGl0dA==

 

Gets specifically good after the 15 min mark haha

 

This is a 4th gear roll on. 2.5” open dump straight down but does have primary o2 sensor. Will have both once I get into an exhaust shop this week. Spikes 32ish but will hold 25-27ish. Cobbled clutch is holding the power and I haven’t done much on breaking it in. Would smoke at idle with the fresh crosshatch and new rings but a couple 3-4th pulls and some heavy boost set them and no more blue smoke at idle.

 

Going for exhaust in the AM. Can’t decide between 3” all the way back or 3 to dual 2.5”. My MAF sensor is 4” from end of 3” intake pipe and I have a cone filter stuck on the end. 10psi or more and it misfires horribly. I trimmed the air straightener from a 3” plastic MAF housing and put it in and it can get 15-18ish before misfiring. Unplug the MAF altogether and it’ll do 30psi easily. Wowzers. Sent my remote tuner a log of both ways and they’ll have me a revision by Thursday AM, CO time. But even MAFless the fuel trims are acceptably rich. So that’s cool cause it’ll do the gurgles and pops when engine braking with an occasional backfire. My single mass s4b5 flywheel cobbled with an rs4b7 clutch kit in this a4b6 is holding all the current power. Maybe 10-15 miles break in before getting the base BT tune and it’s been gripping. Super soft pedal, too.

 

Not trying to hustle this brand but am trying to hustle some posting. I will say this muffler surprised me. 3” downpipe to 2.5” muffler then dual 2.5” to 4” tips. Nothing fancy, no cat nor resonators. The muffler guy was probably more excited than me to fire it up when he lowered it down.

Half glasspack and half…weird chambered space. The ends of the half pipe pieces are loose on the exit side. So there is potential of one coming loose eventually.




https://paradoxmuffler.com/signature-series-performance-muffler/

Remember this is a 1.8l inline four.
https://youtu.be/hi__E4RmrfA?si=DQ4F1CeIwAVzylGy

 

Actually sounds pretty close to when my truck was straight piped after the turbo

 

That little 14” or so muffler is the only thing keeping it from being straight piped.

 

Definitely sounds like a larger litre race setup. Rally style.
I feel like that could work pretty well, in combination with a straight through muffler. I am thinking of my friend's LS BRZ build that I am about to start making the y-pipe for.