Turbo BS Thread

Dirty MAF? Can you lock WG open and at least drive with no boost?

 

Made it back to Idaho. Leaning towards fuel issue. Guage is reading empty when there is still 6 gallons in it. Watching the maf readings it seems to be doing it's job. Not in any hurry to touch the truck after 6500 miles in two weeks.

 

Quite brilliant mate!

 

I’m revisiting Holset turbos for my already Holset boosted car and maybe doing my Tacoma finally as I have everything for the Taco except a standalone.

My 1.8l car has one slightly smaller than the HX35. I’ve found some used pull off HX35 on FBook marketplace but those spoolup late on 1.8l but make awesome top end power. So I dug deeper.

It seems most all the HX35 out there have almost the same blade sizes on both sides. The kicker is that the turbine housings can be swapped between them easily. So if I score a 10 or 12cm hotside it would come on 4500ish. No good for a daily. My current one is a 6cm and comes on at 3000. So I could simply switch the turbine housing for an 8cm and theoretically it would come on between the two sizes.

Same goes for those with the he351. If it’s not the variable vane version then swapping to a different size housing can raise or lower the onset. Used ones on fleaBay can be found at a decent price. Kicker is that everything bolts up the same. Also found some guys that are running the digital variable vane he351 by dismantling the servo whatever and adding a spring to close the vanes. Once the turbo starts spinning faster the centrifugal air pressure pushes against the vanes that pushes the spring closed allowing the vanes to open. Others used an external wastegate actuator to open them with manifold pressure. Even more there is a company that sells a hack to go off of a MAP sensor, I think it was.

So, if you’re not satisfied with when your Holset produces boost you can simply change the turbine housing.

 

So when does the turbo build on the taco start?!?!?!

 

Hopefully as soon as I get this car dialed in. Just went through and replaced everything except the evaporator on the AC system to get it working. Have a $550 suspension kit of 10 arms to replace on the front alone. Thanks German engineers. 3-4 months maybe. I’ve done the research and have it all in my head how I want it. Just need the turbo, time to do it, and a little money.

 

OK, finally got a way to test fuel pressure. I jumped the Circuit Open Relay to tune the pump on. As soon as the pump kicks on it hits 40psi after a minute it drops to 34psi. Once its shut off it immediately drops to zero. From my understanding it should hold pressure after being shutoff right? Is there a check valve in the system somewhere?

Thoughts on the bleed off are, voltage drop, failing pump or leaky injectors. Being that I was seeing very lean conditions I doubt it's leaky injectors. They were just serviced, not that that really rules anything out.

 

How old is the pump? OEMs have an internal check valve.

 

I think about 60k. It's a Walbro so I might swap it anyway.

 

With what all you have described, it sounds like it is time for a new fuel pump.

 

Its me again, so since last time things have changed a bit, I ended up pulling the motor and building it with full forged internals and a stroker kit into a 6.3L and have about 60 miles on it. The added torque from the engine upgrade is quite substantial! And that is obvious when I am out of boost, I changed the WG spring since it came set at 12 psi and that was ridiculous not to mention dangerous since the tune isnt dialed in just yet and the fact that the engine is still in the break in period so I put the 3psi spring in and it was making about 2 psi max so I have swapped it out with the 6psi spring but I haven't given her the beans enough yet to see what it will actually make.

This truck is so much fun! I really need to start gathering the components for the AWD setup sooner than later, and I still have to order a pair of turbos for my Camaro since I want to swap out the Centrifugal S/C it has currently so I can get more boost out of it, 16psi just isnt cutting it anymore.

And yes I might have a problem, there is a really good reason for my screen name I cannot just leave things how they are for some reason, its nearly impossible to resist the temptation to upgrade things (As I eyeball my wife's Mazda CX-9 Turbo ) haha!!

Hope all you bewst junkies are doing well!

 

That's got to be a rocket booster now.

 

Hey guys,

I disconnected my battery last night to do some work. (I know it shouldnt flash my haltech)

Never seen this before; my AFRs are all over the place since. Not feeling a difference in the drive. But spiking into the high 14s/15s at moments here and there. Been observing this all day. At idle it's low into the 12s and creeps up to the low 13s once stopped.
I think im observing it if I give sudden WOT or throttle and don't politely increase throttle

Not sure what happened or what's going on.
I'm just getting home to plug into the ecu and have a look on the software so no update here.

Boost leak? Dirty O2 sensor? Check vacuums? Input would be appreciated.

@Speedytech7 thoughts?

 

Without more data my first bit of advice would be to just check the vac line running from the haltech to the engine

 

Think I found the problem. Might of fucked up some wires. Found these fuckers laying on the down pipe

 

That'll do it id imagine

 

Likely

 

I recently put one of these in for the 3rz. I’ve had good luck with this brand in my 25psi Jetta as well as my current 28psi Audi.

This one is an OEM equivalent but they have one that moves more volume if you go to their website and poke around. Only issue from a direct drop in was the OEM prongs on the harness are slightly narrower than new pump. Style and plug are the same. I just took it all inside and soldered on the supplied harness.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3805467082...-mvR2LQQfe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

Pulled a complete sending unit front the junkyard the other week. Just going to swap that in and see. Oem pump should be fine for the 5psi I'm currently running.

Pulled the threads out of one of the t3 studs today. Hopefully a helicoil holds up to that heat. Also trying remflex gaskets since nothing seem to be flat anymore...

 

Pulled the sheath back. All the wires are clean/not burnt