Turbo BS Thread

Well, I decided to go ahead and forge the setup so I can finally turn as we all will eventually! Don't lie to yourself guys, we have all either been there or will be there sooner than later, yes that means ALL of you reading this. or you wouldn't be in this sub-forum.

I went from a 5.7 (LS1) and figured I might as well go ahead and stroke it while I'm in there since the cost of a forged rotating assembly is negligible in cost. and it needs machining anyway so why not! The new setup increased it to a 6.3L or a 383ci. so not its got a ton more torque at the cost of RPMs but that way it "should" live longer since Im not spinning the balls off of it to make power.

 

What's your final drive ratio? With that added torque, it is going to be a tire ripper more than ever.

 

Indeed it will, it is a big difference in low end torque. Almost acts like an I-6 engine as far as Tq. curve goes. I think Im running a 3.7 gearset. At 80mph Im still under 2K IN 6th gear with a T56, 6th gear is .50 to 1 so a double overdrive is nice if you have the power to carry it in the lower RPMs.

And I meant to say turn it up! Sheesh, words matter.

 

That's the ratio that we put in my friend's BRZ with the 6.3L. Not sure the weight difference between yours and his, but man his still rips through the gears. Easy enough still to take off in 3rd if he wanted. I think his engine is around 430 brake torque, N/A. Which I imagine yours will be near that ball park.

8 psi should get you around 630-700 whp.

 

Its broken in now so Im finally going to be able to hook up the EBC in order to have control of my 7 position boost dial. low will be at 4psi and high will probably be at around 20psi if I can get the controller to run that high from the low boost setting with open loop PWM.. If not I will just hook up my air compressor supply to my wastegate and run dome pressure and that way I can use my EBC in Closed loop mode for mufh tighter control of boost levels.

Should get the new cooling fan from a 2022 Camaro tomorrow so I can program that in since its a PWM control type fan that pulls some INSANE cfm, from what I've been seeing its the highest cfm fan in 19" (11 blade) that is on the market. used takeoffs go for around $500 on Ebay, that's nuts for a used fan! Found one for $340 and the pigtail for the vehicle side for about $45 after shipping (uses huge wiring for battery hookup and a small wire for the PWM signal.

 

Wow. Seems the aftermarket learned of the quality of those fans quickly.

20psi, turbo size depending, what about power levels will that be?

 

They sure did! Its a brushless Spal 11 blade fan, over 4000cfm and 850watts at 90 duty cycle, and being PWM controlled it has soft start and temp-based fan speed.

With the current 78/75 billet impeller and smaller turbine Id guess about 900ish wheel at 20psi on E85 the torque will likely be even higher than the hp due to the bore x stroke being a long stroke setup.

 

Next mod....AWD....

 

Absolutely! Still undecided on the exact way I will go about it, and using a 6 speed manual to do it is going to make if far more difficult in order to graft the AWD transfer case to the T56 using parts from different vehicles and a bit of machining in order for everything to work properly but its been done so that bridge has been crossed thank god.
However that being said I will be the pioneer as far as converting a 5 lug over to AWD in an LS swapped Taco if I can pull it off. I was thinking about just trying to find a 4wd 1st gen but I it's a Lot of work to get everything to work with my drivetrain and since the 4wd chassis is different than the 5 lug it will be even more work, but regardless, any route is going to be challenging as far as packaging is concerned. It's that 100# of crap in a 1# bag or something, something....

My other plan is to graft a portion of an S10 4x4 onto the front end so that way I have the front wheel drive system all intact without having to re-engineer everything. But who knows, not sure of the how just yet but that has never stopped me before I suppose.

 

Oh and good news just got the new fan and I was able to go into the Holley software and do a system test on the fam using various PWM freqs. and it's like a damn rocket engine! glad I had it secured or it would have tried to take flight, haha! This thing Fucks as they say, lol!! (In new-age lingo)

 

Just a thought is you wanted full time AWD and a 6spd is the Audi S4s use a v8. There have been Ls swaps done but I’ve never gone down that rabbit hole. Rest end would need to match the Audi ratio as the front gearing is fixed, and CVs would need to be fabbed. If, if the trans would sit in a good spot to keep decent CV angles.

 

Something to consider for sure, thanks for the info.

 

Been doing some maintenance on my old superduty with a 7.3 diesel. I'm starting to appreciate how easy toyotas are to work on compared to ford. Or maybe because I have more experience with toyota.

 

So I’ve been reading tons of forums and all the things I can and I’ve come to the conclusion that I’m going to do a AEM FIC6 as it is in my budget. I’m doing the Lcengineering low boost supercharger and running stock injectiors for now. What are some tips for this? And is the AEM a good pick? Realistically I only want about 250-275hp and I would like it to be reliable. Personally I don’t know how to tune is it pretty easy to figure out? I’ve already got a computer that probably can run the software. Thanks

 

They aren't that bad compared to late model Diesel trucks, those are a breeze in comparison, but the turbo can be a bit tricky without that special wrench for the flange, I used to work on and rebuilt those engines for quite a while. They are pretty tough, the main issue with them is the fact that the Brazilian casted blocks had some sand in them and on occasion that can eventually route its way from the water jacket to wherever, usually it ends up in the oil pan and emulates a head gasket milky oil situation. Its a good idea to run the Motocraft coolant additive that helps stop that as a Pro-tip if you didn't already know..

 

Not really easy, it's probably best to get help from an experienced person with FI stuff, it's a different animal compared to high revving N/A setups.
AEM is good stuff, nowadays since most systems are very capable it's usually down to the tuner and what they are familiar with. You will probably want larger injectors to compensate but some get stock to work if maxxed out but not ideal.
Reliable is not a problem with low boost setups if tuned properly.

 

So what injectors would I do? I see lots of things on older Supra injectors or should I just get a set of 550cc ones specifically for my truck and run with them? If I wanted to ultimately be pushing somewhere around 10psi on the 2.7 would I need 650cc?

 

Run it on stock injectors first. Plenty of headaches ahead as is.

 

You're one of the only people I know Jon that ever got one of those AEM units to run worth a crap

 

It just takes time and patience like most things. Still was never perfect but I'm still on the same engine and ran 13psi twin charged with that thing. Haltech ftw though.