Turbo BS Thread

Are the AEMs not worth a damn? I’d rather not buy a shitty piggyback and ruin my truck. It’s a 3rd 5spd so I don’t have to worry about transmission tuning.

 

Have mostly read about people having issues getting them dialed in.
Just like a standalone, you have to spend time to get it right but you have a higher level of control with a standalone compared to the AEM.
If I were going to do it, I would make sure I know someone that is familiar with them and could help out getting it running right.

 

Another thing to think about is I don't know that AEM still sells the FIC series anymore. They were purchased by Holley, The product line was already really old.

 

First time doing "real" wrenching on a diesel sure is an eye opening experience. Had really no idea how much mechanical is going on until I really started to dig in. O-rings everywhere. Oil everywhere. Parts behind more parts. No way I'd be able to wrench on a late model truck. It's pretty much cab off for those trucks.

 

Piggybacks aren't too much fun to get dialed in. There is a 5th injector on LCengineering to run high boost. I've seen people run it in the past. Basically plug and go. Not sure how smooth they run. If you got the $, haltech is the way to go. SNP speed innovations offers plug and tune solutions for people. An off road buddy tuned his turbo 2rz to 15psi in a weekend by just emailing some logs. Truck runs great. He running an elite 750, aftermarket injectors and pnp harness adapter.

 

Ok so I’ve just gotten an awromotive fuel pressure regulator because I got a good deal. I’m stuck on how tf do I put this thing on? It’s got AN 6 and 8 fittings?

 

The factory one is rising rate 1 to 1. No need to change it out until you are really making some power with a built engine. I'm still using my factory Fpr no problems.

You just need to move your stock vacuum source to the regulator. This will go to a boost/vac source nipple on the SC. This should also be in the instruction manual.

I would recommend picking your electronics package and installing that on a stock un boosted engine first. Learn how it works before complicating things.

 

So if you don't have the right tool... But you have a socket a hammer some electrical tape, you can remove and reinstall valves. I knew I could get that stuck valve out; I cleaned it and put it back in, and it moved freely. I had to do a little thinking and trial and error to get it back with those keepers. I'm just gonna start putting everything back together (if I can remember where everything goes, and hope for the best)

 

That's how I take the keepers out, I just put a rag under the valve face to help it stay put and give it a whack with a mallet on top of a socket and they pop right off. Well I would do that when I didnt have an actual spring compressor handy, getting them back together is a bit trickier without the proper tools.

 

I was surprised how well that worked, the electrical tape had just enough stretch to let the stem come through the retainer and bounce the keepers back in place