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UCA inquiry

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by TAC1, Dec 18, 2013.

  1. Dec 18, 2013 at 8:55 AM
    #1
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Tac1
    Miami, FL
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    Hello Forum,

    I have an '08 Tacoma Prerunner with 5100's. The fronts are at "0" with OME 885 coils which gave me just above 2 3/4's of lift (no additional front weight). I replaced my lower ball joints with MOOG's because the boots were busted yet there was no noise or "play" in the part. I noticed the same thing with my upper ball joints but decided to go the aftermarket UCA route with these.

    A friend of mine has the Camburg UCA's with his OEM upper ball joints pressed into them, not the uniball set-up. I like that set-up & decided to go with that but Toyota only sells the entire UCA ($290 x 2 wholesale), not the ball joints alone.

    Can anyone recommend a good UCA that uses the OEM (sealed) style ball joints? I've read & heard good things about the LR UCA's good but I also read somewhere that they touch the coil spring when fully extended. How bad is it that it touches the coil?

    I've also been told & have read that the uniballs are noisy. Also, The uniballs are more expensive & my minor off-roading (muddy, sandy, unpaved roads & water crossings) don't require that I go with the uniball design for extra flex. Any input & pics would be appreciated.

    Thanks :D
     
  2. Dec 18, 2013 at 9:18 AM
    #2
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    FlimFlubberJAM
    Tenoe, AZ
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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    The LR UCA's are a good product, and I haven't heard any issues with them. Many people are running them without issues.
     
  3. Dec 19, 2013 at 9:48 AM
    #3
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you Chris!
     
  4. Dec 19, 2013 at 11:17 AM
    #4
    YotaDan

    YotaDan Dan

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    We have the Camburg BJ UCAs available with MOOG Ball-Joints Pre-Installed.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Dec 20, 2013 at 9:27 AM
    #5
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My original idea was to buy the Camburgs WITHOUT the ball joints & use my exiting OEM ball joints. Problem is that my ball joints are bad.

    I then called the dealership but they only sell the whole arm @ over $300 each.

    Then I decided that I will add the MOOGs to the Camburgs but after reading Camburgs website stating that they are a lower quality I'm having second thoughts. I called them a few minutes ago & they re-stated what the website says. Can you guarantee in writing that these arms will not break due to having MOOG ball joints placed in them?

    Thanks
     
  6. Dec 21, 2013 at 5:24 AM
    #6
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

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    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    I was going to install MOOGs in my then new Camburg upper arms, but after reading a post here that showed an arm had split the BJ cup rendering the arm as scrap, I did more homework. Spoke with Camburg and they advised against the MOOGs. I accepted that and bought some low mileage UCA from the classified for the cost of a pair of MOOG bj.

    If I do need to replace the oem BJ, I will probably remove one of the failed oem BJ and measure it. Then purchase my replacements after I measure them.

    There has been a lot of discussion here that mentions the MOOGs are slightly oversize to obtain a good press fit in the oem stamped steel UCA. This oversize it seems can cause issues.

    In a worst case, I would remachine a MOOG to oem diameter before install.

    Just seems easier to buy used arms and press the BJ out. This was actually the most difficult part of swapping UCA.

    PK
     
  7. Dec 21, 2013 at 12:15 PM
    #7
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Paul,
    After you & I spoke I did some homework also & you were proven to be correct. It is recommended by camburg themselves to go with OEM ball joints. Also, the person who was selling their low mileage OEM UCA's never responded to me after I mentioned that I am in Miami. He is in California so I guess he wants to sell them locally.

    Well, this morning one of my vendors asked me if I needed something for my truck (within a certain monetary limit) & he would give it to me as a Christmas gift for all the business I have given him throughout the year. Among other small items I asked for (2) MOOG #K80811 upper ball joints for my OEM UCA's. I might as well use that for now & it was ZERO cost to me. This will buy me some time to save for the aftermarket UCA's.

    According to my mechanics micrometer readings, the width of the ball joints section that goes into the control arm measured
    (OEM, 44.05mm) &
    (MOOG, 44.57mm).

    I don't know how accurate that is but they sure look beefier. I can see where having these pressed into the Camburgs can be an issue. I don't mean to criticize the ones that Wheelers sells. I assume that they measured & re-measured to ensure no issues but at the end I'd rather go with Camburgs & OEM ball joints.

    I'll keep looking. I have time.

    Thanks Paul.
     
  8. Dec 22, 2013 at 4:33 AM
    #8
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

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    Tac1, If those dimensions are correct, meaning the diameters are the true press fit contact surface, you will see right around 1/2mm or .020" of interference fit.

    Far too much for my liking.

    Luckily though, to remachine this, it is only removal of 1/4mm or .010" on account of radius not diameter.

    I would not press them into Camburgs without some rework.

    PK
     
  9. Dec 23, 2013 at 4:04 AM
    #9
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I would have liked to have measured them myself before he installed them into my OEM UCA's to verify accuracy. For now I'm going to stick with these & when I get the Camburgs I'll go the same route as you.
    Thanks,
    Peter
     
  10. Dec 23, 2013 at 4:26 AM
    #10
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
    10 DCLB TRD Sport
    White, debadged, Mudflaps removed, ICON 2.5 in front, 2.0 in rear, all 4 corners have reservoirs, Spidertrax wheel spacers all around, BAMF bolt on sliders, Avid lightbar, oem transmission cooler converted to power steering cooler, aftermarket transmission cooler eliminating all oem transmission cooler stuff, remote mounted spin on transmission fluid filter TrueTrac rear differential, rear diff housing vented and filtered into left side bed box, URD MAF calibrator, Volant intake scoop into oem airbox, second filter removed, airbox internals smoothed, blended and polished throttle body, NST intake manifold spacer, Wet Okolee set covers, WeatherTech Digital Fit mats, inexpensive JVC single DIN, Scangage, AVS Stepshield door sill protectors, Doug Thorley Long Tube Headers, URD Y pipe with O2 sims.
    Got it, oem uppers are still being used until a complete upgrade.

    You are too much a nice guy, should have been greedy and asked for a set of Light Racing UCA complete.

    You will be fine with your setup.

    PK
     
  11. Dec 24, 2013 at 5:21 AM
    #11
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the compliment Paul!

    Yes, I'll go with this for now. Spencer (person selling the OEM UCA's) PM'd me his phone # & said that they are in excellent condition & he will send me more pics but he needs some time due to the Holidays. I said, no problem. I called and left a message on his phone.

    I'll keep you posted.

    Thanks again
     

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