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Ujoint replacement

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Crosis, May 19, 2020.

  1. May 19, 2020 at 11:25 AM
    #1
    Crosis

    Crosis [OP] Tertiary adjunct to unimatrix 01

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    Just had my truck in the stealership for battery replacement. It’s a lifetime warranty battery so it goes there for feee replacement. Anyway, they did an inspection on the truck with 106k miles. Came back heeding new front brakes (I have the new rotors and pads in my garage), cabin filter and air filter :jerkoff:, diff and transfer case oil, and then they said the 3 ujojnts needed replacing as well as the bearing. I assume they mean the carrier bearing. They quoted me $640 for the ujoint and bearing replacement. Now I know from threads that the ujoints can be obtained from Amazon for around $30 apiece and a google search tells me the bearing goes for $80 to $170 depending on brand. Obviously much less than the $640 they want. Is the job a DIY for a moderately experienced shade tree mechanic and what brand parts should I avoid?
     
  2. May 19, 2020 at 12:16 PM
    #2
    Rob MacRuger

    Rob MacRuger Well-Known Member

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    There is a U-joint TSB. Look into it.
    I did mine before I found the TSB letter.

    I personally believe Amazon sells too many counterfeit parts so I got my greaseable Spicer's from Rock Auto.
    It wasn't hard to do.
    I haven't done the bearing as it is not needed on my truck yet.
     
  3. May 19, 2020 at 1:38 PM
    #3
    Crosis

    Crosis [OP] Tertiary adjunct to unimatrix 01

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    Jesus the rock auto website looks like you need a PhD in web design to navigate it. Wtf were they thinking?
     
  4. May 19, 2020 at 6:40 PM
    #4
    ABNFDC

    ABNFDC Well-Known Member

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    I find Rock Auto one of the absolute easiest sites to narrow down which vehicle you have and which part you want. Refreshing compared to the shit you see nowadays.

    U-Joints are easy. Just grab the appropriate Spicer parts. I recommend grabbing a loaner ball joint press from a parts store or buy one yourself. The Harbor Freight one serves me well.

    The CB isn't hard. The part numbers are different from 2WD to 4WD, so watch that. Just grab an OEM or the appropriate compatible part. There are some threads here where you can find the replacement washers and nut part numbers. They are easy to find on Ebay or Amazon. You'll need a puller to pull the old bearing off. I had to let mine sit in MMO overnight before it decided to free itself as no amount of heat or other bullshit was getting it off the day prior.

    It's a good time to grease the slip joint or drill/tap it for a grease fitting.
     
  5. May 19, 2020 at 6:55 PM
    #5
    lynlan1819

    lynlan1819 Well-Known Member

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    A driveline shop can do it for less than half that with spicer joints,if you don't want too mess with it.
     
    whatstcp likes this.
  6. May 19, 2020 at 7:00 PM
    #6
    Dan 77

    Dan 77 I leave my bikes outside

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    I was going to replace my u-joints and carrier bearing but my driveshaft failed before I had the chance. I still have the parts I bought and plan on posting them in the for sale section soon. Part numbers are listed so you can see if they are compatible.

    Edit... I ended up with a one piece drive shaft.

    DT-America-1.jpg
     
  7. May 20, 2020 at 8:51 AM
    #7
    kurts74

    kurts74 Well-Known Member

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    I'll trade a couple tips for a question. In the middle of this project right now. I borrowed a press from a parts shop - I recommend doing that, except be careful. I used a impact drill to press the caps out, but over shot and the body of the U-joint pressed into the drive shaft flange. This required some filing to get rid of the burrs, not a big deal but a mistake non-the-less. Also I got my parts (U-joints and carrier bearing) from TacomaPartsDeal (not a deal: 5 joints and a bearing=$550). On top of they verified the part number for me before ordering, but they sent non-greasable U-joints. Seems like that is now the OEM option even though my original joints on the truck are greaseable. Make sure you mark all your surface connections before taking apart the shaft.
    That leads into my question. When cleaning parts with brake cleaner it removed the paint mark I had to index the shaft and now I don't know how the yoke was oriented. Can I just put on the flanges at each end, bring it to a shop to have them balance and then I install the shaft or am I missing something? I would like to avoid all the effort and don't want to end up with vibrations.
     
  8. May 20, 2020 at 8:56 AM
    #8
    zippsub9

    zippsub9 Well-Known Member

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    Shit bolted onto other shit, and junk.
    My 2 cents from going through the process.

    1. Don't attempt without a press or vise
    2. The sequencing is key and marking of the U-joints so that the shaft remains in phase once complete
    3. The two piece shaft is a MFer to maneuver and manage in my garage with many carts to balance and hold in place for my vise to work
    4. Needle bearings suck, get an extra U-joints in case you lose some needle bearings one gets screwed up
    5. There was a little learning curve for me, but definitely doable just take your time. And NO, a hammer and socket will not work to put them back together, but will work to get them apart.
     
    SR-71A, ToyoTaco25 and jproffer like this.
  9. May 20, 2020 at 12:13 PM
    #9
    Marshall R

    Marshall R Well-Known Member

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    They should replace U-Joints under warranty up to 200,000 miles. At least that is what they did on my 2007. They will reimburse you if you've already paid for it if you have receipts.
     
  10. May 20, 2020 at 12:25 PM
    #10
    jproffer

    jproffer Well-Known Member

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    Just did mine this past weekend and used these parts:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAPFESW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DOI9GFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I used the sealed joints because I know me and I'll forget to grease them just like I have been for the past 139K miles. If you want greaseable, that would be these:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DOI8BDS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

    The Carrier Bearing says it's for a 2WD/RWD but it works for the 4WD also.
     
    Chuy and Crosis [OP] like this.
  11. May 20, 2020 at 2:21 PM
    #11
    Crosis

    Crosis [OP] Tertiary adjunct to unimatrix 01

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    They mentioned no tsb or warranty. Of course.
     
  12. May 21, 2020 at 6:28 AM
    #12
    topcathr

    topcathr Well-Known Member

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    take off the drive shaft bring it to a machine shop replace all u joints
     
  13. May 21, 2020 at 7:05 AM
    #13
    NavyDiver72

    NavyDiver72 Well-Known Member

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    Any Mods? One. Maybe two, tops...
    **** EDIT: Never mind my 0.2 do not apply in this case, you Tacoma is 4WD. Just saw your avatar.

    I'm pretty sure that the price they quoted you also includes TWO part NEW DRIVE SHAFT (Spicer) - you were quoted a "shaft assembly". I went through the same, the stealership told me that Toyota recommended to have the whole assembly, from tranny to rear diff (I have a Pre-runner), replaced together...

    Just wanted to share that with you.

    Cheers!

    Rick
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2020
  14. May 21, 2020 at 7:44 AM
    #14
    Steve_P

    Steve_P Well-Known Member

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    The carrier bearing is different for 2WD and 4WD. There is a lot of information here:

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-replacing-driveshaft-center-bearing.515726/

    edit: in my pics you can see that I filled the carrier bearing's rubber surround with clear silicone. No issues with over 10k miles on it, it's still in place. If you want to do this, do it before installing it and let it cure for at least a day. This will add a lot of rigidity, but could possibly increase vibration; I have no issues with it.
     
    PzTank likes this.
  15. May 21, 2020 at 7:47 AM
    #15
    74cam

    74cam Automotive Engineer

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    FYI they will most likely reject any tsb or warranty for these issues if your truck has a lift. My local dealer wouldn't even bother checking those things for warranty since I have a 3in lift.
     
  16. May 21, 2020 at 7:51 AM
    #16
    SR-71A

    SR-71A Define "Well-Known Member"

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    Good advice. Only thing Ill add is to get genuine Dana Spicer parts from somewhere like
    https://www.drivetrainamerica.com

    Umm lets see, if you do the CB youll have to put the driveshaft back in the truck (can do it backwards so its easier away from the T case) to torque that big ass nut down properly
    Also youll want a puller for the yoke (or take your time with a chisel and hammer) if you do the CB. And watch out for the washer that gets stuck to the old center bearing!! Sucks doing the job twice.. ask me how I know :bananadead:
     
  17. May 21, 2020 at 7:52 AM
    #17
    Oldewing1800

    Oldewing1800 Well-Known Member

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    Dog hair, lost happy meal parts from Grandkids....
    I did mine 4 or 5 years ago, all u joints and the carrier. I have a press at work, so it was a "lunch time" repair...

    Don't recall any thing out of the weird in doing it, NAPA parts (they bring them to the shop). So if you have a press and vice, it ain't too bad, if not, a driveline shop would be my guess.
     
  18. May 21, 2020 at 7:55 AM
    #18
    jproffer

    jproffer Well-Known Member

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    They are different according to Spicer's (Dana) website, but I bought the one that was supposed to be for 2WD and put it on my 4WD and it works fine. Not much difference between them.
     
  19. May 21, 2020 at 9:32 AM
    #19
    SR-71A

    SR-71A Define "Well-Known Member"

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    Major difference as far as I could tell was dust seals (or lack thereof on 2WD)
     
    jproffer likes this.
  20. May 21, 2020 at 10:26 AM
    #20
    Crosis

    Crosis [OP] Tertiary adjunct to unimatrix 01

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    Sadly my dealership quoted the $650 for a carrier bearing and ujoint kit. So I am going to guess it’s not a new driveshaft too.
     

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