uncleART's Build

I love my 17" sports now that they are dipped, but when I buy new wheels SCS FTW! Can't go wrong Arty, they will look sick. Everyone loves them and raves about top notch customer support.

 

I really like them too. Actually I was torn between the fj 6 spoke, that SCS wheel, and the konig countersteers.

 

you ever drive around Ballard i feel like I've seen your truck before.

 

On occasion. More towards Green Lake area - passing thru...

 

Looks Great!!

 

Thanks man! It's been fun. There's a lot more that I want to do it.

 

Great looking truck Arty. Hey I just finished my 3" lift with OME 885s and LR ucas. Do you remember the letter setting you placed the star washers on went mounting up the LRs by any chance? I'm running Level 8 17x8s 4.5bs and wanna have my alignment set up to make the jump to 33s. I know bjmoose had mentioned using the 3* setting. thanks man

 

Thanks Aaron. I set the ball joints to the "E" location. This is for a total of +1* of caster for the UCA. It gained me a little over 1 inch of extra clearance behind the tire. I just recently had another alignment, and they were able to get 2.4* of caster. Truck tracks nicely down the road.

 

I did the same. Rubbed something fierce at 2, went back and had it realigned at 1. Made a big difference.

 

Thanks a ton guys. I'm damn pleased with my LB and its awesome to have help along the way with these issues. Merry Christmas Arty and Chris!

 

Just installed 30W Halogen bulbs from Home Depot.

I considered doing the 886 mod, but didn't want to melt down my housings like what happened to BensonX.

This wouldn't normally be a problem if I just kept my truck on the street. Off-roading would keep the reverse lights on too long. This past summer I got into a trail where I couldn't turn around - had to back out 3/4 mile - my backup camera timed out twice. Every time I go out (every 3-4 weeks), I have to back out from dead ends 2-3 times. This is too much runtime for high wattage reverse bulbs.

I considered going with a 894s, but then discovered that I could just go to the hardware store and get a 12v bulb that I don't have to modify. Just had to pinch the socket contacts closed to accept the smaller tabs on the new bulbs.

GY36.35 Base 30W Halogen bulb.


OEM 921 18W on Left. 30W on Right.


Pinching the Contacts Closed.


OEM Reverse Lights Shown.


OEM 921 18W on Left. 30W Halogen on Right.


New Halogens Installed. Much Brighter!

 

Here's a night shot.

 

very cool

 

My truck started having a pulsating vibration at 35-40 mph; at around 6,000 miles. I now have about 9,000 miles on it. So I purchased the bushing and related tools from East Coast Gear Supply.

The install was super easy - took about 3 hours. I have never done anything like this before; it was a good experience. Thanks to my TW community, I was able to glean all of the info I needed to do the job!

I used cable/short-handle-sledge/yank method for removing the CV shaft. It came out with about 6 hard yanks on the hammer. Removing the needle bearing and installing the bushing was a piece of cake. I did bevel the puller tool to make it easier to insert behind the bearing.

Reinstalling the CV shaft initially seemed to be challenging; but it ended up being super easy.
- Make sure that the opening on the C-clip is on the bottom. This insures that it is centered on the shaft.
- Insert shaft and gently rotate to clock the splines correctly.
- Gently push up on the drum to square it up and hold it in this position.
- Use a pry bar and small sledge and tap it into place. Took me two mild taps and I heard the C-clip snap into place.

The Diff drain plug had the expected sludge on it but no visible metal. Good news. I used a pump to fill the Diff with Lucas synthetic gear oil.

Here's some pics:

 

Sub

 

Was there a specific "how to" you used for pulling the CV shaft? I've never done anything like this before either but I'm going to need to do it sooner rather than later because I have the lovely vibe now too. Would like a good guide from beginning to end if I can find one.

 

I can't remember where I saw a how-to on here. Sorry. You'll have to search for it (use Google to search TW). I also did some searching on Youtube as well.

 

did you use the 8" or 7.5" clamshell bushing and removal tool? do you know which one a 2005 dclb sport would have/need? did you replace both driver side and passenger side bushings or just driver?

 

8" 2005+

http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing.html#videos

 

Yeah, I did see one....was just curious if you had another one. I'll definitely do lots of searching before I take the plunge. Did you have mess with any repacking of wheel bearings or do they come off intact? That's the part that wasn't super clear to me on the how-to I looked at.