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URD short shifter w/ stock knob?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Carson, Dec 7, 2009.

  1. Dec 7, 2009 at 10:11 PM
    #1
    Carson

    Carson [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey, just a quick question. Will the URD short shifter work with the stock 6 speed leather knob? Pictures would be nice if possible. :D

    Thanks!
     
  2. Dec 7, 2009 at 10:17 PM
    #2
    AlexForbesR6

    AlexForbesR6 My R6 Eats Me

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    yes...it is not a replacement shifter...just a spacer and different end that changes the pivot points thus creating a shorter throw distance...but you keep the stock shifter
     
  3. Dec 8, 2009 at 3:14 PM
    #3
    TacoMOnster07

    TacoMOnster07 Well-Known Member

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    Not a close up, but I have the URD SS with Stock Knob. One of the most enjoyed mods I have done.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Dec 8, 2009 at 4:41 PM
    #4
    Carson

    Carson [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! Looks like this will be my Christmas present :D
     
  5. Dec 8, 2009 at 5:40 PM
    #5
    dktaco

    dktaco Yes MAObama is a joke!

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    I have the same setup...make sure you get a strong dowel and mallet. You are gonna have to separate a piece...kinda a pain in the arse....keep hitting it until you get it off then the assembly will be simple. Mine has been on for over 2 yrs. and no problems yet. I just want to let you know their is a slight chance of failure with the two halves coming undone. URD hasn't addressed this...so the TRD will be my next one once this goes out.
     
  6. Dec 8, 2009 at 6:29 PM
    #6
    Carson

    Carson [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Interesting. Is there any possible ways that the two pieces you are talking about can be reinforced? I don't want the shifter failing on me. :p

    Thanks
     
  7. Dec 8, 2009 at 7:53 PM
    #7
    TacoMOnster07

    TacoMOnster07 Well-Known Member

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    I so far have about 43,000 miles on mine and haven't had a problem. I did what the instructions said, the hardest part is taking off the plastic ring that fits around the bottom end of the shifter. Use locktight and punch a dimple in the grub screw to prevent it from backing out. I love the feel, shifts are much smoother. Third gear had a little bit of grind sometimes but not after the URD SS.
     
  8. Dec 8, 2009 at 7:54 PM
    #8
    rossk35

    rossk35 Do Work Son!

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    You should get the TRD shifter instead. Its so much better even though its double the price.
     
  9. Dec 9, 2009 at 6:40 AM
    #9
    jassco

    jassco Well-Known Member

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    In addition to some dremel and cutting to fit for my URD SS I found the easiest part was seperating the shifter from the trans. It appears they now use a metal crush gasket and no RTV to seal it. It came off with no effort after taking out the bolts. I reused the gasket for the trans to spacer, but went ahead and used RTV on the spacer to shifter.

    Also for getting the bushing cap off the end of the sifter I just wrapped a good shop towel for protection around it and evenly pried it off with a pair of channel locks. I had to do it a few times and it worked great.
     
  10. Dec 9, 2009 at 6:46 AM
    #10
    Gadget@URD

    Gadget@URD Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Please explain what you are talking about. If the URD Short Throw shifter is properly installed it is not going to come apart.

    G
     
  11. Dec 9, 2009 at 6:48 AM
    #11
    Gadget@URD

    Gadget@URD Well-Known Member Vendor

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    What year truck do you have where it had a gasket between the tower and transmission?
     
  12. Dec 9, 2009 at 6:58 AM
    #12
    jassco

    jassco Well-Known Member

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    2010 access cab 5spd 2.7L I took pictures of the dremel process and trans housing modification(not much you can do about that) and I think the gasket too....have to check when i get home. I think that "out of spec" shifter is getting more frequent because a buddy of mine had an issue with his 2010 as well.

    The set screws do not go all the way in . I've had the shifter out several times to make sure these were properly set all the way they could go. I think the out of spec shifter also creates a thicker base so the screws cannot fully turn all the way down. They stop with a lip on them that isn't the best for trying to punch over. I could not really get any material to punch and be over the screw, so I just punched it many times around and hopefully they will hold.

    The hole in the sheet metal body for the shifter was much smaller then when I looked at the access hole on the pdf in the instructions. I know that was done for a 4.0 but is the trans access hole really that much smaller now on all bodys? I had to grind a lot out and the bolts are still a tight fit.

    I also had to turn the entire shifter 90 degrees to get it through the access hole. The trans is mounted very close to the body too so even without the spacer getting the shifter in/out is challenging at first but well worth it.
     
  13. Dec 9, 2009 at 7:04 AM
    #13
    mjp2

    mjp2 Living vicariously though myself Moderator

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    Heya Gadget, thanks for jumping into this thread!

    They're talking about a piece on the stock shifter and not your components. The issue some people have had is that the change in leverage from the extension wears out the rubber bushing between the two pieces of the stock shifter.

    [​IMG]

    The issue doesn't always arise and is most likely the result of poor shift technique. My truck was fine until my dad drove it for a few thousand miles. He had issues finding the notch for reverse, would muscle it in, and wore out the bushing pretty quick.

    My personal solution was to cut the stock shifter and weld a piece of chromoly tubing in place. Also did some brazing to make sure the URD end had zero play in it and would never come undone.
    [​IMG]
    Ignore the fact that the shifter is installed backwards in the base in the above picture. :eek:
     
  14. Dec 9, 2009 at 7:17 AM
    #14
    jassco

    jassco Well-Known Member

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    nice fix, im sure you could sell these to people after they wear out their shifter for cheaper then a replacement shifter and make some loot.:D

    I know the thread is getting a little off topic but has anyone thought of putting a tight metal or rubber band around the extension to hold the set screws in. I understand if you punch them properly they should stay in, but with my shifter this may not be possible with the current set screws. Im sure a metal band in my trans would be a lot worse then a tiny set screw falling in but.....
     
  15. Dec 9, 2009 at 8:05 AM
    #15
    dktaco

    dktaco Yes MAObama is a joke!

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    The stock shifter rod has prematurely failed on others! The URD SS speeds up the wear on the bushing because it puts more stress on the handle. All I am asking for is what have you done to correct this? I have the product and love it, but when it fails as I have read at other places I don't want to be stranded. Please explain!
     
  16. Dec 9, 2009 at 8:08 AM
    #16
    dktaco

    dktaco Yes MAObama is a joke!

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    Why should you have to do that if the product was engineered properly? :confused:
     
  17. Dec 9, 2009 at 8:16 AM
    #17
    jassco

    jassco Well-Known Member

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    Stock shifter seems to be a balance between insulating vibes and durability. Others have worn out the shifter stock by shifting very hard in general. Fixes have included the above(nice) and injecting tougher compounds between the two pieces. If you shift hard enough to wear out the stock shifter in a few years then a solid shaft design(B&M like) might a be better suit. TRD shifter is the same 2 piece insulated design from what I have read.
     
  18. Dec 9, 2009 at 8:22 AM
    #18
    mjp2

    mjp2 Living vicariously though myself Moderator

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    It's the stock factory Toyota piece that fails, not URD's product.

    You're right -- that fix shouldn't be necessary if everything was engineered properly, but then we wouldn't have to worry about reinforcing our engine mounts, reinforcing the alignment cam tabs, replacing the weak rear leaf springs, replacing a rusted-out frame, etc.

    People have replaced their stock 2-piece shifter with a solid one and then complained about transmission noise in the cab. It's pretty much impossible to please everyone so Toyota made a compromise.
     
  19. Dec 9, 2009 at 8:49 AM
    #19
    copernicus

    copernicus Well-Known Member

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    My 2010 2.7L had a gasket as well.
     
  20. Dec 9, 2009 at 10:21 AM
    #20
    Gadget@URD

    Gadget@URD Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Maybe they changed the lever on teh 2010 2.7 Transmissions. If I get any more reports of a poor fit with our parts I will just exclude the 2010 from the application list. I don't like it when customers have problems installing our parts.

    I don't know if the hole in the floor has changed, I doubt it.

    In some cases the bolt heads from the raised tower contact the floor and makes a little noise. You don't normally need to grind this. The easy fix so far is to wrap plyers with some tape and use them to bend the sheet metal up slightly to get it to clear. Usually it is not much you have to bend to make it all work.

    Yea, all the 05+ 2.7 trannies will have the gasket. It is very similar to the 4x4 tranny from the 1st Gen Taco. It is the 6 speed units that do not have the gasket.

    G
     
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