URD Spec-U headers for 2012+ w/dyno.

Ok working on installing my UDR U-Spec headers. Have the Passenger one in, but So for I am not impressed. The 0/2 location is making it so I can plug my 0/2 sensor back on. The location of the air pump line makes it almost impossible to get a wrench on the nuts. Then they sent bolts and nuts for the air pump line. where they should have welded a nut on the back. Trying to get those tight is stupid hard. I'm about ready to pull it back off and order up some JBA shortys

 

Haha yea my install sucked too but not as bad as you're having it. I have skinny ish arms and long hands so I could make it all work. I thought the new bolts for air injection to header tightened up easy the one thing I wish I had new of was nuts for the head studs but whatever. It's worth the pain of install. I get a chub everytime I fire it up in the morning

 

Does the stock air pump line have a welded nut on the back or is the flange itself tapped for the bolt?

 

It's just a hole. No tap or welded nut. Stock header has a stud in it.

 

Well if your getting a chub every morning, then I will continue and finish the rest of the install Saturday. I was able to get the 0/2 plugged in by bending the bracket for the wiring harness. Still a little tight for my liking. Just have the drivers side to do now.

 

Fair warning @Brianawd The drivers side is worse. Getting it in there sucks. And the nuts on studs for the header are tough. I plugged the o2 sensor bung in the middle runner and used the bung in the collector for my forward o2 sensors. If you can get it done, its worth it imo. But its not an install for everyone...

 

Make sure your starter wires all clear as well.

Sconnie has some pictures in his build thread.

 

Yes good point, started cables need an inch or more. Took a few zip ties for me but all good so far

 

Flex head ratchet wrenches and swivel head ratchets FTW!

 

^ this, get them all haha

 

Nice gains, has anyone dyno'd these long tube headers with (I guess aftermarket) cats welded in? How much horsepower loss?

 

Aftermarket cats will not "fit" in them, if trying to conserve the factory bolting locations. They could be welded in after the merge collector. That would then also require modifying the OEM Y-pipe (if it were still used).

The OEM y-pipe, with its "semi" cats was used in the dyno from URD. Those could also be replaced.

Doubt anyone will go that far as that though because it just isn't very cost effective.

 

This is what I was thinking when I asked the question, but I wasn't aware of this:

As for the "cost effectiveness", if it means keeping my vehicle legal...I'd say the cost is worth it. Plus, I'm one of those damn tree huggers...I'd prefer that my vehicle be a mass polluter.

So will it pass emissions with just the "semi" cats?

 

With and O2 simulator, you will. As long as a sniffer test isn't used. And the visual will show the Y-Pipe cats.

Now, you can get some high flow cats to the Y-pipe, relocate the O2 sensors further back to be able to read the newly installed cats, and would be good.

www.planetmagnaflow.com You can find the proper cats for your needs. Have the HP and the emissions compliancy.

 

Okay, so I guess the question is...how much of this HP improvement is due to removing the cats, and with an emissions-compliant exhaust, what kind of horsepower bump would you get?

 

I like the smell of two of four cats gone, especially first start up no testing in WY

 

There is still a scavenging improvement over stock, regardless of the cats. That is where the gains are primarily going to be.

High flow cats are a restriction still, but not necessarily as restrictive as one might think. There are plenty of tests where people have tested with/out catalytic converters on the interwebs. Might not be vehicle specfic, but it could still give a rough idea.

A clogged cat however, well we all can agree that it will be a major flow restrictor.

 

Well finished the header install. The drivers side was a bitch to get into place. But once in place, I found the rest of the install to be easier then the passenger side.

 

Well done. Make sure to double check all of the nuts after a few miles. They say 100. To make sure they are all still tight.

Heat cycling the new parts will expamd and contract them.

 

I only had one issue that was caused by me. Got a check engine light because I installed the O/2 sim backwards.