v6 manual 13-14 mpg

There not.

 

But here yes?



Eric, to each his own. Whats up, how would you like to approach the subject of improving V6 mileage?

 

I used to keep my RPM's anywhere from 1000 - 2000, but someone told me it was very bad for engine and to just stay in the gear I was suppose to be in.

How true is this?

 

with real world solutions and not gimmicks like removing my door handles. Sorry I kinda need them to open door. Maybe you just crawl through the window idk. And my windshield wipers, yep use them in bad weather. Or some stupid ass cone on the back of my car. And when was the last time anyone ever used an altnerator?

Yes I agree all those things probably will increase aerodynamics & reduce vehicle weight but leaving your car less practical.

 

It used to be that coasting in neutral saved you fuel. On a carbureted engine, that is a good tactic.

However, with ECUs now managing an injected fuel supply, engine braking can use the momentum to drive the engine instead of fuel. This yields better fuel efficiency as opposed to idling at speed. It's also safer, but that is a side discussion.

You can see this effect if you have a scanguage - watch the Gallons per Hour (GPH) meter when coasting vs. engine braking. There is a huge difference.

 

Thanks, I will give it a try. Before I would just always be in a higher gear. I have never tried engine braking to push you along.

 

If the truck is lugging, or shaking, etc...then it's pretty clear that it's not good for the motor. But if the truck is driving normally, then you're not doing any damage. You'll know if you're doing something bad.

 

I really haven't done much of anything to my truck but slow down and my mileage has gone up quite a bit (18mpg to 22mpg).

I did switch to synthetic oil (including tranny, trans case, and rear), block heater, 44 psi in my 265/75/16 tires, and I put a grill block on (I bought from cabela's). And I use my truck-(pull a 7000# dump trailer, haul fire wood (never had a truck bottom out like this thing)) I use 4wd and 4 low.

 

It is hard to get neutral coasting to give benefit on this truck because of the 1200-1400 rpm idle above 10 mph. Not spoiled like my old honda where the engine would take 0.2gph at idle and read 240 mpg coasting. I have found two cases so far where it may help a little on this truck, but the benefit is small:

-Approaching a stop, still a third of a mile back, no traffic. Put into neutral and truck begins to slow. It varies time to time, but once you learn where you'd "intersect" the deceleration of a 4th or 5th gear engine braking, put it into that gear (*blip the throttle, not only does this save the clutch, but after about 15 seconds without a throttle input the ECU will NOT give you DFCO), and keep in that gear until you're down to 500 rpm. If you downshift at ALL you will use more fuel. Have to force the rpm down under that 1400 rpm idle. It's weird.

-Extended hill of at least a quarter mile, but has to be the perfect pitch. Needs to be steeper than what is needed for the average car due to the resistance of the tires (at least it does with these dunlops, they roll like silly putty).

As for those who think part throttle under 3k is economy shifting... well, that would be the same airflow as a Honda Fit at 6500 rpm at full throttle. This engine will easily run smoothly down to very low speeds; oftentimes in town I'll push it down to 900 rpm if I don't have to accelerate because the mileage is better. BTW that's at 25 mph and if it's just a hair downhill that's an EASY 45 mpg.

Toyota didn't call it a 1GR-FE for nothing. FE means fuel efficient. The valves are at a nice narrow angle for low rpm use; if it weren't for the cam phasing the torque on this motor would absolutely die over 3000 rpm. No reason we can't take advantage of it.

FWIW if you can accelerate at 80-85% load and shift at 2000 rpm you will outpace most normal traffic and still get 18+ mpg on highway tires. Also a little tidbit, the approximate rate of fuel consumption for this engine at full power is a bit more than a gallon every 3 minutes. Same at 3000 rpm is a gallon every 5 minutes. Sure you only accelerate a few seconds at that power, but if you do it over and over again across a whole tank... you get the idea.

 

Could you post links to your block heater and grill block? We've been contemplating these as well.

I like the idea of fully synthetic. Easy, and better for the parts anyway. Good call!

 

i get like 12

 

must be the driver caue i have v6 manual with a lift i get 14-16mpg.

 

This is write up (not by me) I used.
I bought my block heater for $50 ebay. Very easy install.

Grill block, this comes with a bug screen for the summer. http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=745995#productChart

 

I know what this thread is about ok? I was just trying to make a point, no need to get snooty over something that is minorly off topic, there are far worse things that could happen thats for sure

 

Agreed

You could have mentioned F1 in the NASCAR thread for instance .

 

One of the easiest ways to better mileage and lower cost per mile operating cost is to switch to 93 octane fuel. You will gain enough mileage per gallon to offset the higher cost and then some. This has worked on nearly every vehicle I have owned, from a 1972 2000 cc Ford Pinto to a 351 H.O. Ford F-150 pulling a horse trailer and two horses. The only vehicle it never made any difference on was a Chevy 3/4 ton with a 350 4-barrel. Nothing would have helped it, 6 mpg no matter what I did.

I am not certain if higher octane would help in an all city environment or not, as I do not live in town. But, when making a long interstate run or pulling / hauling a load it never fails for me. The brand of fuel can have a big difference too. I seem to get consistant results with either Marathon or Shell fuel. The discount brand fuels actually cost me more to operate, no matter the octane.

And of course, stay out of the loud pedal.

 

This is a really good idea! I have done this once with my 2.7 and got over 500 miles out of that tank! 537 I think but am not completely sure

 

haha u crack me up there buddy!

 

I will say to give it some time, good suggestions till now, fallow and the MPG will improve, but with only 10k miles, the engine just had time to set, mine was the same, automatic, but after another 2-3-4 thau., you will see an improvement.