vF Tuner for the 3.5L Tacoma

had them, leaked bad, CEL, removed the next day. then i exchanged for the catted ones and have not yet installed them. @M1Awolf anything to say?

 

I haven't changed anything on acceleration maps. Primary "0" and ECT only. I am currently running a tune with both upshift and downshifts adjusted. I upped the values on the downshifts to hold 5th and 6th a little longer before downshifting, and upped minimum upshifting points as well for 3,4,5,6. I hate when it's putting along at 1000 rpm. I also upped the minimum downshifts so it'll downshift with little to no throttle sooner so it doesn't try and take off in 5th at 25 mph and do two shifts before actually accelerating.

 

These are my most current shift points. I copied and pasted Mat's example for Airload tables, have throttle points adjusted up around 25-30%, the first gear limit upped to 100%, and ACIS upper value set to 3400 instead of 3600. The throttle limits definitely play a role on how the truck shifts. Less pedal movement required to activate a shift point.
I'm on 33*11*18, stock gears, and my daily driving weight is about 5000 lbs.


If I'm doing 65 in 6th gear and coast, my truck downshifts:
6-5 @ 50
5-4 @ 35
4-3 @ 19
3-2 @ 5

 

How does this differ from the primary points? I haven't played with the acceleration points yet.

 

@OVTune

Please advise what these negative values mean in relation to % Torque as indicated on the following map (04B41 Prem SFOB, Primary Throttle Torque target):

 

I believe OV said they aren't necessary. Truck reads off the primary tables as priority 1.

 

I don’t know exactly. I imagine the truck makes some calculation to determine if it thinks you are accelerating or cruising at constant speed. Then it would pick the map based on the results of that calculation. Just seems like a ham fisted attempt to patch the inadequacy of the primary maps in my opinion. I upped my accel maps so there are no shift points slower than my primaries

 

Aj can you send me what tune your currently running? I want your most updated one, with all current changes. You been killing this vftuner bud. 0B04 4 life

 

I did pretty much what you did, except for the downshifts first off. After I made your adjustments to everything sans downshifts, my truck seemed to need heavier braking to slow down. So I adjusted Primary Shifting Downshift Schedules 2-3, 3-4, & 4-5 by *90. I'm not sure if I did it right (maybe I should've done *110?) or it did anything or not yet. Also "Downshift Schedule 2-3" is confusing. Shouldn't it say "Downshift Schedule 3-2" for example? I have no clue what I'm doing!!! lol
It definitely runs better/has more power tho! From a green light I can actually keep up with traffic now, and even pass them!

 

It's a little confusing, but downshift 2-3 is the downshift from 3 to 2.

If you *90 the value, it made it smaller. Anything above 100 increases the value, and everything under decreases it. So by *90 you would have made the speed higher that those downshifts occur.

 

Thanks @Mooseditty17! This tune is excellent. My truck is running better than it ever has. Smooth shifting, power at all times, no jolts, and best mpgs. This is a true “performance” tune. I’m not sure there’s much more you can do to make it better. Cruise control shift points is the only thing left, but there are no specific tables for that.
Nick, you will love it. Let me know if you need me to share it with you-(04B04).

 

Dang, you guys are making me wish I'd kept my 04B04 truck.

 

Thanks for response. If this is the case, then why is there an ECT shift table? I was hoping the acceleration shift table might be connected to S mode.

 

How do I increase alternator voltage. What is it under? Cannot find it

 

Alternator constant I think it's called

 

The downshifts being called 3-4 certainly leads to some confusion just know that when it's a downshift it's the opposite. It'll be the higher number to the lower number. If you want to do less breaking and you want your truck to downshift sooner on its own you need to multiply those numbers by 110 and not by 90. The higher those values are the sooner it will want to downshift. Now be careful on those higher values because that means when you press the gas it's going to want to downshift sooner AKA more hunting! As far as decelerating just mess with the lower end values by raising them some.
I really only messed with the first two values as far as downshifts being raised for more shift controlled deceleration.

 

That's what I was thinking when I went with *90, downshifting is the opposite. Thanks for all your help man, I'll set them back then try *110 on just the lower values, then play maybe play with it a little. Def don't want gear hunting!

 

Funny, im also on 04b41 and played with those today.

I made one up last night with the smoothed values under control and expected airflow.

I also upped the 1st gear limit to 100

And i made changes to the throttle primary table like you have pictured.

I logged on the way home and not sure i selected the correct PID. I ran commanded throttle position and actual throttle position and they stayed relatively the same. Im looking to log the difference between throttle pedal vs actual.

I dont like how touchy the throttle is, especially around 1500-2000 rpms with a light touch of the pedal. In 2nd and 3rd gear the truck acts like it is jumping back and forth between closed and open throttle. It bucks like mad sometimes and drives me nuts.

What i noticed from the logs, it never drops the actual throttle below 13.7. That seems to be the minimum to maintain Idle. Most of my cruising is in the 2000 rpm range and the throttle stays beween 17 and 20. No matter what i tried, the throttle never commanded or went actually above 55 or below 13.7 (although i didn't rev the engine up to red line, so that will probably be why the throttle stayed below 55)

My changes did absolutely nothing to change the way the pedal reacted except for making it more sensitive (makes sense, i increased a lot of values)

When at 0 throttle it just stays at 13.7 - 14 IMO the truck should be able to completely close the throttle (within reason) until the point that it needs to open slightly to maintain idle. I'm going to load one with the negative numbers back in it and see if it in fact does go below 13.7. Maybe the negative numbers are for that reason. Maybe 0 is actually relative to 13.7 and the negative 10 will drop it to 3.7? Im interested in hearing what they mean as well, im just speculating. Tomorrow i will run the tune with the negatives in it and log again to see if there is a difference.

My end goal is to have the throttle plate respond in the way im telling it to. I want a light press to be light and a heavy press to be heavy. Once i achieve that, then i will look into smoothing it out. I like to have a nice light pedal control with slight increases in acceleration and deceleration for normal every day cruising. Then if i decide i need to give it the balls it wishes it had, then it will respond.

 

You want to log PID accelerator position. That i believe is the accelerator pedal % travel. I think you were just looking at where the ecu told the throttle plate to be vs where it was measuring the throttle plate to be.

 

Cant find it in VFtuners logger...ill keep looking but im not sure its there

Edit: I found "relative accelerator pedal position"