vF Tuning for Manual Transmission 3rd Gens

Just now diving into all this, got unlocked and started diving into my 04A71. While waiting on the tune files I wanted to play around with some of the options. So my questions are can I just apply them to a basic tune or hold my horses for the tunes then mess with it.
Second can I apply them even though the calibration numbers are different, or do I just manually enter the numbers

 

You can apply the changes to the stock calibration.

Your primary gear throttle stuff is different. It uses a different map per gear whereas 2.0 uses only the first gear table.

 

I'm not sure what you mean in the last part. But if you are 04A70, then you need to flash the TSB tune first to get to 04A71. You can't flash different ECU IDs on to yours.

 

guys this is pretty damn solid

welcome to try and comment.

tip in is different, its not what you are used to, its actually more like what you were used to. it requires a little more push, but that extra push doesn't over rev like factory, then dump on you once moving.

rule 1 - always long press the traction button when testing your files, it is wildly different in the low gears and when cornering. (be careful when hammering first in a corner, i kicked the ass out earlier today)

04b41 zip file is attached for those of you with 19s on b41.

it has, my PTTT gear 4 ov hybrid for gear 1, request to airload modified, linear throttle request to airload, linear Primary throttle with a 0 throttle twist, atkinson zone intake valves are advanced under low load, and knocked the peak off around 3k under high load.

the idea was to limit the need to advance the intake valves 50-70 degrees when transitioning from low load to high load. seems to have helped. I will continue to test more, but not really wanting to mess with high load areas, without a dyno its hard to make those adjustments.

i have tried all sorts of throttle maps, and have found that the linears are proving to be the most consistent and smooth.

in my opinion these changes give the smoothest throttle modulation without killing the throttle response.

rev hang is what it is. the only way i found to kill it is to kill your throttle....might as well just drive like a blue hair.

engine braking is actually very good with the 0s in the low rpm, i left the higher rpm at -10.75

 

I've been following all the hard work you and the others have been doing while waiting to get my truck. You all are incredible. Now that I have the truck, I just need to wait for Mat to roll out support for it and I can join in the fun. While I don't fully understand that much, I have been following and comparing all your tables and graphs and I can see correlations in some of them. The engine braking was always an odd table. To me, it makes sense that you find that zero provides the best result but it really all depends what the numbers and table scales actually mean (which we're all trying to figure out). Hopefully Mat rolls out support soon; I'm excited (and a bit terrified) to dive in.

I need to ask, what do you mean by "long press the traction button"? Does it do something similar like press+hold cruise control does?

Linear throttle is definitely what I'm looking forward to the most. At least (I find) this truck is not as awful as my AT was in this regard.

 

Long pressing the traction button makes that nanny telling you no, shut the hell up and tell you yes.

Basically it turns off traction control and eliminates the throttle reduction with steering input.

I normally drive with those on, but you never get the true feeling with it on.

I have found the primary table to be more of a sensitivity thing than anything. It seems to only affect how quickly the throttle responds to your input.

Obviously we don't know how exactly it works, but after turning it all to 0 and -10 i realized it doesn't stop you from accelerating then i quit focusing on it as a throttle control but rather a sensitivity.

The zones i left at 0 are the areas i typically shift into and i want the throttle responsive as to not create a dead pedal feeling.

I left the others at -10.75 to try and keep some engine braking.

Patiently waiting Matt's new manual maps.

 

I'll have a look tomorrow for it. I do recall that button and using it in the snow in my AT OR but I don't even recall seeing it in this MT Sport. I'm sure it's around. There are definitely fewer buttons and switches not having the MTS, Crawl, ECT and whatever else the AT had.

I think I've had that dead pedal already...I've picked up to not shift up at such a time where the RPM would be below ~1400 once the next gear is engaged or she doesn't really go at all for some seconds. Definitely quirky trucks these are, both trannies.

Yes! That rev hang is irritating when it happens and anything new is welcome. I have a feeling he's going to try and roll as much out in one shot as he can otherwise we would have had a piece of something by now (I feel anyway). I don't blame him: less work for him and more time to ensure everything's 100% as he wants it. But, eager beavers

 

If you push the gas pedal just as you are letting the clutch pedal out you will notice you get no dead pedal. If you wait until the clutch is engaged it will be dead for a moment.

It's a slow reaction. Changing those zones to zero helped but pressing the pedal early helps. Not too early or you'll just slip your clutch. It's a tough thing to time perfectly

 

I think I subconsciously have been noticing that, now that you mention it. I do try to a little anyway but I was using too much accelerator and it was a rough shift (I can't feel the clutch sometimes and have stalled twice as a result; that accumulator needs to go. It's almost as inconsistent as my AT was with shifting) so I backed off and found where I can consistently get buttery smooth shifts but also found that a slight misstep meant a bit of dead pedal...

Tough to time perfectly indeed. Between the accumulator and the computer, not like the old 4Runner, Civic, Sidekick and Jeep that were around in the family, tough to time perfectly indeed.

 

Exorcise the demon!

 

Right!?

Soon. I have the parts and instructions in the glove and Dad has everything else except garage space at his place so as soon as that's remedied he'll even help me do it

 

I'm waiting on the tune pack. Not sure where to download it or if they send it to me. My question is how do I adapt your tune and "add ons" to mine. Can I use the files posted? Copy paste the numbers, many more options then I am used to on standalones.
Yes I did the tsb to update to 04A71

 

Cool. Thanks for the info!

The Master Key, REG file, and Tune Packs will come as links or attachments to the email address that you ordered with. Be sure to check that Spam folder.

You have to request the REG file based on your System ID and the Tune Pack based on the ECU ID that you want.


I am not a fan of sending out full tunes that I edited. Risk, sleeping at night, and all that. But like you said, you can get the same tune by following the threads here and making the choices that suit you best:

-- Start with the 04A71 VFT (editable) tune that you like best.
-- For the 3D and 4D maps, check that the Stock / unedited map values agree with your unedited tune. I post the Stock values for that reason.
-- Then copy and paste in the map data.


The 1D and 2D maps aren't a big deal. You can enter the values that you would like. For example, folks did not go 100% torque for 4Lo. Personal choices and such.

 

Cool, thank you for the advice. Feel so far behind and a bit overwhelmed. Have only ever messed with 1d maps with no where close to the complexity of options this has.

Understand about full tunes would probably have trouble sleeping myself.

Have the basic stuff and the registry installed. Just waiting on the tunes and rather impatiently lol.

 

You're welcome!

Don't worry too much as most all of the edits are on the throttle input side or have been initiated by @OVTune with stuff that he found after 2.0 was released. Just keep a copy of your last known or unedited tune to flash if you don't like something.


The Tune Pack should come pretty quickly. While waiting, some folks have played with the Stock tune that is hiding in the vF installation folder on your computer.

Just a tip since save and export can get confusing at times, I copy and rename the tune files before opening. That ensures that I don't overwrite something by accident.

 

I was running SFOB on 04B90 with 92 octane and have trialed standard 2.0 as well.

I find that premium tunes cause some increased engine noise that almost sounds like knocking only at at high RPMs under load (between 5000 and 5500 rpm). Do you all have that increased engine noise at high rpm? Is there any way that it can be edited with VFtune?

 

If it's true knock, maybe your gas isn't up to par either lol

I'm not kidding. Not saying it's what's happening but a number of years back there was a local guy who independently sent Chevron gas samples from a station here in El Paso out to be tested and discovered that the 91oct was approximately 87oct, and the 87 was more like 85 iirc.

Long story short, he got a fat check and some paperwork to keep his mouth shut but you know how these things go, word gets out and around regardless. For what it's worth, I heard this stuff third-hand or more. But I give some credibility to it since at the time I had my big turbo ms3 and had some issues that my tuner said could be due to shitty fuel.

So that's why I mention it.

 

Well, I’ve run the tune with gas from multiple stations. I’ve reflashed, reset learned values, etc. I’m just curious if others have the same noise at those RPMs.. In stock form it accelerates through those RPMs with no real change in sound, but on 2.0 premium tunes there is a large change in sounds as soon as I hit 5000. This mainly only happens accelerating hard in. 2nd, but will also happen in first. I just don’t want to run the tune if it is truly knock and hard on the engine.

 

Hey guys, bit of a basic question here for those that transitioned from the Flash Kit to VF. Im sure this info is posted somewhere, so if there are instructions pertained to this specifically, please point me in that direction. I finally jumped on the VF wagon after having my 2020 Pro tuned with the flash kit (SFOB 91).

Just getting the program set-up, and Ive gotten into the VF program with the OVT supplied Master Key. The instructions are telling me now to email my system ID. My system ID is the same as when I set up Flash Manager.

Can I simply use the same reg file that I originally received? Same laptop and everything, so that file is still saved to my registry.

Ive been able to unlock my ECU ID (using the supplied credits) and open the stock tune in VF. Am I correct in assuming that if ive gotten this far, VF is seeing my old Reg file and everything is good to go?

 

It should work ........ try flashing a tune.