vF Tuning for Manual Transmission 3rd Gens

I'll use whatever Dad has. Normally it's the socket wrenches and the adjustable one so I don't have to fight with sizing again (already do with sockets, but the nice thing about metric is it's native to me and he only has the one short/small set unlike the plethora of imperial sets...). I know he has everything as I already went digging way before as part of my prep in deciding to do it.

Working on vehicles is one of the last things I'd ever be known for doing, but now that I own my dream vehicle and am a bit older apparently I'm a lot more willing to do things myself. I'm pretty happy about that.

 

That was not what I was talking about. You're working with brake line flare fittings. They have a thin crown that can strip super easily. You want something like these: I have that set. They work great on the 10mm stock flare fittings.

Note that if you are using the Trident kit, I believe one of the flare fittings is 11mm though. So, you can shop for an 11mm or snug it up very carefully with an 11mm box end.

 

I used a regular open end wrench.

The key to not stripping it is angle

If you angle the wrench at all it will strip.

Then when putting back together, do not over tighten, that will also strip.

Line wrenches are definitely the preferred way, but not necessary if you know what you are doing.

(That tip applies to Allen wrenches, sockets, everything really)

Oh and @tonered if you haven't messed with those low load valves i posted earlier, you are missing out.

Amazing feel in the mountain curvies

 

I would only make that wrench reccy if folks have messed with flare fittings in the past. Even so, I was nervy using the box end to tighten that 11mm and checked up with that person about leaked a few times.



I am too happy with my current tune and am just gathering long term data until we get more maps in vF. I will add in your changes though.

Thanks!

 

I looked in that drawer when I went over there today. Turns out he has metric of those as well buried in the imperials. I think he has the ones I need but I didn't bring the instructions with me. There was a 10 and either 14 or 15, plus most of the others in between and a couple smaller and larger.

That's good advice, thank you. I'm usually very careful especially if I haven't done it before or if I know the consequences could be significant (wouldn't want to not be able to drive my truck due to a careless mistake!). I'm sure it will be easy. The hard part will be the angle at which I'll be working, I think.

 

Good stuff.

All the ones on the Taco are 10mm. The one on the Trident hard line is 11mm. Just be careful snugging that up and check for leaks before putting the heat shield back on.

 

I don't have whatever that Trident hard line is, but I do have a couple other pieces and I think the connector requires a 15. These two if you're curious. I had to do some part number digging since "what is an Autozone?" is a thing.

https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/BLQ6415027?partTypeName=Brake+Line+Fitting&keywordInput=brake+line
https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/BLQ...rake+Line+-+Universal&keywordInput=brake+line

 

Just finished a nice sideways drive in a bit of fresh wet snow/slush after re-flashing 2.0 SFOB Prem after making most of the tweaks in this thread. Time will tell if any of the smoothening will dampen the surge that sets in.

On another note, Nokian Hakka R3's getting installed tomorrow. No more going sideways until roads are snow packed. Those treads are too damn pricey to be spinning!




If anyone's curious. 2020 TRD Pro 6MT, CORE Short shifter, stock wheels/tires

 

Just finished some "testing", comparing stock to OV tuned in the rpm range Id mostly find myself in. Maybe you guys will find some value in this.

Did some simple 80-100kmh pulls in 6th gear (I know, sounds boring right), and some 60-100kmh pulls in 4th, to compare stock vs SFOB 2.0 Prem.

For all you imperial folk 60kmh = 37.2mph, 80kmh = 49.7pmh, and 100kmh = 62.1mph

Here is was I figured out. The 80-100kmh pulls in 6th were nearly identical between stock and tuned. This is a very small RPM range (1600-2000ish), and I don't think Mat's tune advertised any improvement in this area in the top gears, only lower gears where there were artificial limits.

60-100kmh in 4th showed a decent improvement from 9.9s to 9.1s as the RPM range is a little wider and into the area that Mat has worked on (approx 1900-3000).

Here are the actual times
Stock: 80-100 in 6th= 8.7s
60-100 in 4th= 9.9s

OV2.0 SFOB prem: 80-100 in 6th= 8.8s (avg),
60-100 in 4th= 9.1s

All times were calculated using the frame rate in iMovie.

 

Full throttle?

 

Yup, foot to the floor lol.

And yes, I fully realize that forced induction would be required to create any dramatic difference in this RPM range. This is more just a sh1ts and giggles thing.

Will try it again once my decatted dump tubes arrive. (off road of course)

 

Have any of you modified the Request to Airload or Engine Mapped Expectation Airload tables? What did you find?

I did modify both of them, the former first and then the latter (with a bit of driving in between) with the goal to try and eliminate the lag/loss of power upon shifting into the low end of the gear (the tables and graphs even show much lower than 1k+ RPM). All I did was select said range and multiply by 110 to make it more flush

 

I did adjust the lower end of the request to air load table but did not notice a change.

The only way i found to get rid of that lag is to press the throttle just moments before fully letting off the clutch pedal

 

Interesting you mentioned that. I found myself doing that “naturally” when stock, but the issue that created when running 2.0 is I typically “overrev”. Only when going 1st to 2nd. I think part of the issue is the friction point with the clutch is so damp high in the pedal travel. I probably still have a habit of burying the clutch pedal to the floor from my 3rd Gen 4runner.

I’m pretty sure it’s a me issue, but mildly frustrating to say the least.

 

What does your primary throttle torque table look like?

And the first gear table?

The over rev i did fix

 

I haven’t messed with PTTT. Whatever 2.0sfob Prem is.

Same for 1st gear table. I did remove the throttle limitations as per the instructions on this thread.

 

This is what I did to the tables. Simply the top left where it seems to be dropped off under high load and low RPM I boosted by 10% to bring the numbers more in line with the rest of the graph/table.

I'd like to ask about the overrev business. I think I have that issue, too. I feel it's often too much or too little? It's probably just me trying too hard (I find if i think about it a lot and try I can do worse than just driving) but I'm curious anyway.

 

That's some late turn in there!

 

If you guys look in this excel sheet you can see my pttt and ptttg1 values.

It removes the touchiness of the throttle and is the core of what i did this make mine smooth.

Note, it takes a few tries to get used to the throttle, you can't just blip it anymore, you have to hold it a bit (more like a cable throttle)

But it stops that initial throttle press from jumping way up and then slamming back down on you.

 

Those are the same tables that I have in my stock edit. I need to give you credit as they are incredible. Thank you for your hard work on them and for sharing.

I found the throttle was (and is) very normal. The throttle before any tune on this or the AT I had were weird. I was okay with adjusting to it (like any other vehicle) but what I wasn't hot on was the unpredictability of it (and the shifting behaviour in the AT). Now, there are none of those (or very minor and hardly, if at all, noticeable)