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Viair Automatic Mod (VAM)

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by tonered, Aug 13, 2020.

  1. Aug 18, 2020 at 12:03 PM
    #41
    tonered

    tonered [OP] tacorider

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    You definitely could.

    I updated the schematic in the 2nd Post to show where I actually made the connections. I can certainly take more pics though.


    There are a bunch of different pressures that you can get for those switches. Also, the Viair can get up there really freaking high. Like near 200psi.
     
  2. Aug 18, 2020 at 12:04 PM
    #42
    tonered

    tonered [OP] tacorider

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    Thanks!

    I used it all the time. I just don't like worm drive clamps, esp on garden hoses. Having flat clamps is just a thing that I like.
     
  3. Aug 18, 2020 at 12:15 PM
    #43
    tonered

    tonered [OP] tacorider

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    Hey, Alex.

    I updated Post 2 with a numbered the schematic and upskirt photo to show the connections. Does that help?
     
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  4. Aug 18, 2020 at 12:19 PM
    #44
    Rainoffire

    Rainoffire Well-Known Member

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    I remember seeing this in the other thread! Great job.

    After that day, I went down a rabbit hole and looked into a couple of stuff. For my Viair 400p, i have been looking for the handle which acts like a mini tank and the pressure relay that hidden in the on/off switch cover from a 400P-Auto or 450P for the conversion. Nothing has came up so far...

    Kind of want to turn my 400p into an OBA with a one gallon tank for light duty needs.

    These may be helpful for others:
    Screenshot_20200819-052656-01.jpg

    Screenshot_20200819-052545.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2020
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  5. Aug 18, 2020 at 12:27 PM
    #45
    tonered

    tonered [OP] tacorider

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    Thanks!

    It looks like that is what a lot of folks do this for. There are some Viair pressure switch / relay parts out there. A couple of the Amazon reviews put me off though. With this setup, I can drop in a new switch or relay quickly.


    It would be cool to see what the setup is on the Automatic ones. It looks like they are sensing off the outlet and had some guts in the switch cover.

    upload_2020-8-18_12-27-49.jpg
     
  6. Aug 18, 2020 at 12:30 PM
    #46
    Rainoffire

    Rainoffire Well-Known Member

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    Ye, that is the part I have been searching for!
    Can't seem to find it as a separate part, even in repair kits.

    So the handle acts like a mini tank, which the pressure relay goes into at the tip. The rest of the relay is hidden in the cap/cover that also houses the on/off switch.
     
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  7. Aug 18, 2020 at 12:35 PM
    #47
    tonered

    tonered [OP] tacorider

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    Nice update on your post!

    On mine, there is nothing in the handle. The actual handle is foam-covered plastic (PVC?) that is supported by the metal end brackets. There is a tube through the middle the same size as the fittings. Except the fittings are straight threads. I was hoping to swap that male for the female, but I cannot find a straight thread pneumatic connector.
     
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  8. Aug 18, 2020 at 12:39 PM
    #48
    Skydvrr

    Skydvrr IG: @kalopsianick

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  9. Aug 18, 2020 at 12:45 PM
    #49
    tonered

    tonered [OP] tacorider

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    :D

    Stick with the oetikers. They're fast and nice.

    I bought the tool back in the day to clean up the brake and clutch remote reservoirs on my bike. From there, I was just looking for a moment to whip it out.

    Ignore the air bubbles. :mad: Also, that's about as rusty as things get up here. About 8yrs of riding in any weather and parking outside at work. Not bad for flexed bare steel baling wire.
    IMG_20200731_191443.jpg
     
  10. Aug 18, 2020 at 12:46 PM
    #50
    Technique

    Technique Well-Known Member

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    It helps, but I'm still a little confused, bare with me. #3 is tied right into that fuse, right? #2 is tied into the OEM cable or did you add an additional cable that ties in behind the cover?
     
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  11. Aug 18, 2020 at 12:51 PM
    #51
    tonered

    tonered [OP] tacorider

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    No problem!

    Number 3 is after the fuse. You can see the capped fuse holder in the pic. I didn't take a section out for the positive lead. Just one cut and stripped both sides. One side to Terminal 30 and the other side to Terminal 87. The only added jumpers are:

    -- From the positive lead to the pressure switch -- teed in
    -- Between the pressure switch and relay Terminal 86
    -- From the negative lead to Terminal 85 -- teed in​

    The only key thing is to tee the pressure switch to the positive lead on the clamp side of the leads versus the Viair power switch side or else the relay coil will not get power when the relay is open. Just as shown in the schematic.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2020
  12. Aug 22, 2020 at 7:41 AM
    #52
    Rainoffire

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    I think you are right for the piece in the handle for the 300p and 400p. On the auto versions, that large metal piece with the quick disconnect may just be a T-fitting so that the pressure switch relay can slip in.

    To make it as OEM as possible, I want that T-Fitting and compact pressure switch. Part numbers haven't came up so far.

    Might really just switch to a 1.5gl tank OBA. Hmm wonder if I can use the tank, hoses, fittings and gauges off a broken Ryobi compressor.
     
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  13. Aug 22, 2020 at 10:01 AM
    #53
    tonered

    tonered [OP] tacorider

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    I would say that you could use any salvage parts or one of those separate compressed air tanks to get an OBA system put together.
     
  14. Sep 1, 2020 at 2:09 PM
    #54
    Gilmorec61

    Gilmorec61 LambTek Innovations

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    Could you explain why the relay is necessary? Couldn't the pressure switch be wired inline the pos or neg lead to the compressor and perform the same function?

    I'm sure I am completely overlooking something, I am just stumped atm.
     
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  15. Sep 1, 2020 at 2:13 PM
    #55
    RX1cobra

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    I'd imagine the pressure switch can't handle the current the pump draws.
     
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  16. Sep 1, 2020 at 2:17 PM
    #56
    tonered

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    I could not find a current rating for the pressure switch and I assumed the moving diaphragm contacts are not very robust for 30A of current.

    The Viair version that you can see in the Products box below uses a relay also.

    If you can find one that can take 40A (there's 40A fuse in the Viair pigtail), then you can probably skip the relay?
     
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  17. Sep 1, 2020 at 2:28 PM
    #57
    Gilmorec61

    Gilmorec61 LambTek Innovations

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    Got it, makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.

    I plan on running two 88p's together. I know they have 20A fuses individually, not sure what I will need when I wire them together but I will certainly see if I can find current ratings for the pressure switches and then if need be, run a relay with the pressure switch as you did.

    Looking into doing a setup similar to this, but with 2 88p's
     
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  18. Sep 1, 2020 at 2:35 PM
    #58
    tonered

    tonered [OP] tacorider

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    That's pretty cool. No relay would certainly simplify the mod.

    I just saw that Viair lists the current draw at the various flow rates in case that helps:
    upload_2020-9-1_14-32-42.jpg
     
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  19. Sep 1, 2020 at 2:49 PM
    #59
    Gilmorec61

    Gilmorec61 LambTek Innovations

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    This is awesome information, thanks!

    While Im here, do you know if combining the two compressors together would be as simple as doubling the amp draw? And then sourcing the appropriate fuse/wiring to support it?
     
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  20. Sep 1, 2020 at 2:55 PM
    #60
    tonered

    tonered [OP] tacorider

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    You're welcome!

    Yes. Current is like the flow through a pipe. It's additive. So, if you had a relay good for twice the fused current, you would only need one for both pumps. Similarly, I would use 3/8in air hose to minimize the pumping losses after you tee the pumps together.

    For wiring, just match the gauge on the pump pigtails. Unfortunately, there was nothing noted on the website or on the cord itself. All that I know is that the 300P is 12ga.
     
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