Vibration after new wheels and tires and numerous balancing

Front cone. Bolt plate adapters are a PIA. You need a lot of time and an extra set of hands. That is why you rarely see them used. Even with those you should still back cone the wheel.

In terms of cones, there is a specific Toyota cone that makes all the difference, and it doesn't come with a standard balancer package. You can see it on this parts list - http://www.coatsgarage.com/media/modular_content/Wheel_Balancer_Accessory_Catalog_8.pdf It has a taper that better fits the Toyota center hole as opposed to the truck cone that has a very long taper which makes it harder to center on the shaft. I don't think Hunter makes a Toyota specific cone and the parts are not interchangeable between hunter and coates.

 

Ok... I went to discount tires and had the wheels all balanced again.
So, the tech balanced the wheels first and I asked him if this is automatically road force balancing the wheels. He said that he had to push the RoadForce button on the screed to do so.
After doing so and having to rotate the wheel inside the tires he had to balance again and it started wanting more weights. So, instead of what the machine recommended he rotated it 1/4 turn and road force shows less pounds and it took less weight....

I asked him to use both finger plate (haweka plate) and the tapered cone to make sure we're both hub and lug centric.

Came out of the shop, now the wheel vibration is even more severe.... I'm going to Toyota tomorrow for their foreman who is a very clever guy to test drive.

As far as Axle shims... no axles shims. When I first lifted there was a vibration (totally different type of vibration) in the driveline at acceleration, which I was able to fix with dropping the driveling carrier. (4 months ago...)

What ever this issue is it's either related to the wheels & tires or wheels and tires definitely effect it and are high lighting it.

Thanks again.

 

Your mistakes - 1. Road force balancer is a joke. It does nothing. 2. Bolt plate adapter not the answer. In theory, when used by a trained professional, it can match the quality of a cone alone, but it adds an unnecessary level of complexity. Sometimes I hate the internet because it if full of bad advice from people with the best intentions.

Your chances of success at the dealer are close to zero. I might even go as far as to say zero. What they will tell you is that you have aftermarket parts and they can't help you. They do not deal well with ride quality issues.

The question is how did the wheels roll on the balancer and how did the tires look? If both were smooth like glass then it is all about balancing. The key to your success is finding a tire tech that knows his trade, not a magical tool that does it for him. Those guys do work at Discount. You just have to find them. I would probably call and ask to talk to the district manager. If they are worth anything, they will know the shop that has the ace and send you there. Don't be a Richard as much as the temptation is there and lord knows you deserve to be that guy. It is way to easy to jump to that mode, but I can promise you that you will get better service being the cooperative customer that expects results than the one on fire.

 

OP, if I were you I would put my old tires and rims back on if you still have them and see if the vibration is gone. If you don’t have your stock rims maybe a buddy who has a Tacoma or if Toyota is willing to help you out maybe they can take rims off a truck and slap them on yours to see if the vibration is gone. Once again your driveline angle has changed, you need to add at least a 3 degree shim to minimize or eliminate driveline vibration. They are roughly $30 so it won’t break the bank. I’m starting to worry you have a fetish for balancing tires....

 

True words of wisdom! I couldn't agree more...

 

What if they boogered the bead or it's slipping because excessive lube was used? Would you unmount and remount someone else's problem child as a first step?

 

The road force machine they use at discount actually recommends to rotate the tire on the wheel a certain amount if it exceeds a set amount of weight required to balance. I had a slight vibration in my at3 after the first balance. Took it back and had em road forced and it is smooth as glass.

 

The tires are from my trd pro wheels. I’ve had them for 3000-4000 miles now. I just put them on brand new ray10’s and all this started.
Over the weekend I took off the front wheels of my 4runner and put them on the Tacoma and the steering wheel vibration was gone.

This is not driveline vibration.

thanks.

 

Probably wouldn't start breaking it down unless there was something pointing in that direction. You could, but that takes time and the benefit isn't really that great. There really are not a lot of mounting errors. Honestly, I have never seen a tire slip because of excessive lube. If that were a real problem, you would see cars slamming into walls after getting new tires all the time. Imagine if the tire could turn on the wheel. You put on your breaks, the wheels lock up and the tires keep turning. It would be a disaster. If you have ever broken a tire down, you would see it is virtually impossible for that to occur regardless of the amount or type of lube used. The water based lube dries quickly after mounting. I mean even when you have to break a tire down right after mounting, you wouldn't be able to remount it without applying fresh lube. The paste doesn't dry as quick, but no one uses paste.

The first step if someone came to me with a ride quality issue is to put it on the balancer. Not to balance it but to see how it rolls. Obviously if you put it on the balancer, you would balance it, but that isn't the purpose. What you never do is put wheel on the balancer to 'check' the previous balance. It will never show zeros. I say that, but it does happen as a trick to show that someone else didn't do their job. The old "let me check their work" followed by the "look a this, the balance is off". What a good tech would do is remove the old weight, note the amount and location of the old weight, spin it on the balancer and see where and how much weight it is looking for and more importantly how it rolls starting first by looking at the flange of the wheel looking for lateral or radial movement. Then looking at the tire straight on at the tread for any indication of a hop or side to side movement. That is how you isolate the problem and then focus there.

 

Did Discount mount your tires when you had them on the trd pro wheels?

I bought a set of tires from Discount. They road balanced them. Truck hopped and steering vibrated. They tried three more times than we tried different tires.

I ended up ordering tires from the Tire Rack. Had them sent to Firestone. Firestone mounted and balanced them using a regular tire balancer, not road force. Everything has been great for 36K.

With that being said, Discount definitely tried and never gave up but I just had it and needed to try something else. After about the 3rd or 4th day of me coming back they did start to give me strange looks like I was making it up.

 

Burmapeak,

yes discount mount the tires on the TRD wheels and as I left their store I felt the vibration and returned back. They rebalanced it and it was perfect for 3000-4000 miles until I got the SCS wheels.

Today I went for a test drive with the foreman/head technician of Toyota here who’s very smart and to the point.

he confirmed that it’s balance/wheels or tire issue.
The truck is there and they’re going to figure the problem out.

 

I have Ray 10's and the same Toyo tires and my truck rides very smooth.

 

It's your balancing job and or the tires are bad. It's unlikely that it's the wheels. Go back to the 4runner wheels and Toyo open country tires.

 

265/75/16 Duratracs for the Win!

 

Collet and Lug plate

 

So, just got an update from Toyota...that wheels have been balanced and test driven with no vibration.

But on a side note, I also contacted TOYO tech support and they told me that the air pressure for these tires shouldn't be more than 26psi for the tacoma and that discount tires should have know this... They say anything over 26 psi would cause the tires to bounce.

Of course Toyota believes 26 is too low for highway and apparently able to eliminate the vibration with balancing.

I'll keep you all posted as soon as I get the truck.

 

I run my Toyo Open Country AT2s at 29 cold with Nitrogen. Its better because it doesn't fluctuate like regular air. I know some are going to call bullshit but the tpms doesn't go off when the temps drop. 26 seems low, try 29 and be vibration free. So what happened to the Wildpeaks?

 

So they say, hopefully it works out okay for you. Keep us posted.

 

Dude. I am experiencing the exact same thing with new 17" Level 8 MK6 wheels and Toyo AT3 265/70/17.
Got them a little over a month ago and have had weird body/floor vibration from 63-73mph. Only mild steering wheel vibration

Before I always had 16" Level 8 MK6 wheels and 285/75/16 Pathfinders or Coopers. Never had a vibration ever. Not with my Pathfinders nor with my Cooper AT3's.

I recently went with larger wheels and smaller tires for the excess of highway driving that I do.
Seems like your vibration was worse than mine but I was just today at Discount tire for the 2nd time since install a month ago due to body vibration and they're at a loss just as you experienced
.
Never had vibration before, never needed a carrier bearing drop (I'm lifted 2.5").
The vehicle was aligned two weeks ago. Definitely not the alignment.
I actually DO have the ECGS bearing installed.

I just read this thread a bit ago and before I made this response I went and dropped my cold PSI from 34 to 30 and it noticeably dropped the vibration!
Not completely but it was most definitely less.
I am going to wait until tomorrow in the morning when the air is truly cold and drop it a pound at a time until it is either gone or virtually gone.
26PSI just seems too low... We shall see.

Thanks for starting this thread and being the workhorse in getting to the bottom of this.

 

Let us know if you see improvement