Viper 5706V remote start repair - no votage on remote start wires

I bought one of these alarms cheap on ebay as defective. Upon testing it out I found that the starter relay was not outputting any voltage during start. I hoped it was just a bad relay but after taking it apart and testing the relay. I found it to be working properly. So I started following the traces and found a npn transistor that was not functioning properly. To test I swapped it with one of the same transistors down where the d2d port is and now remote start is working properly. I have ordered a new transistor to replace the one I borrowed and installed this in my Tacoma using the hardwire bypass setup. Since I couldn't find any info online about these units I figured I would post some pics in case anyone else runs into an issue with one.

 

Whoa. I thought i was cool soldering the control panel on my washing machine.. this is good stuff. I hope you got it for next to free though, fully functional brains on ebay sell for around 50 bucks., and i bought a brand new complete 2-way viper system on Amazon for 189.

 

Lol thanks. I was included in a box of defective items. I like to repair electronics as a hobby. Otherwise I probably wouldn't have specifically been looking for a remote start to repair. Since it came with a bunch of other items and looked to be a complete unit. I figured it wouldn't hurt to see if I could get it working. Here is a pic of them replaced. The ones with the 1P are the new transistors. I replaced the two by the d2d port. They were only 20 cents a piece. I guess I should mention that I used a hot air solder iron. Which is used for surface mount IC's not a regular iron. I guess most people don't have one of these but maybe you might know someone who does. None the less maybe you want to see what these look like on the inside without voiding your warranty. Here are some more pics. The two transistors on the bottom left next to the red d2d port with 1P on them are the new ones.

Here is a pic of the bottom

 

My soldering skills are comparable to a rabid gorilla on cocaine. Possibly worse. I envy your skills.

 

I am running into the SAME issue on my car, any chance I can get the exact part number or model of the npn transistors? It's difficult to tell from the pictures :/

 

I hate to be that guy who bumps old threads .. but as it's already been done somewhat recently I too am having an issue with that same NPN Transistor and the documentation of Viper products is non-existent. Can you let us know what number or code is on that Transistor that you replaced so I can purchase the right one? I cannot make out the code with the photos provided even by zooming in. TIA

 

Here you go. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1/Wi03lUQ1MzWcTJs7V4Mc5cS8=

SMMBT2222ALT3G

 

Thank you so much! You are a lifesaver!

 

Glad I found this thread, This is the only one I found on Viper repairs Is there any way to fix the -200mA output wire for dome light supervision?

I tried hooking mine up to a relay and it won't activate.
I'm not sure if something in that circuit is burned because it was overloaded or hooked up wrong.

I tried testing to see if I get a -neg output after unlocking but no change

The wire in question is

H2/7 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT


I have it hooked up to relay as follows:


PIN 85 to +12V Fused

PIN 86 to Black/Yellow (H2/7 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT)

PIN 87 -DOOR TRIGGER WIRE

PIN 30 Ground to chassis


as far as I understand if I press unlock the dome light supervision should send a Negative trigger on pin 85 (black/yellow) and then the relay should energize and should hear a click making the switch connection to 87 and 30 turning the lights on.


but the relay does not click I have tried another relay and no change.

 

I don't recall needing to install any relays for the domelight. Any reason you're trying to use a relay?

 

It’s standard practice For all 200mA outputs on viper modules to use a relay or you chance burning the module. It’s easy to overload 200mA even a test light could overload that circuit

for inputs such as door triggers not needed.

since this was a component level thread I thought I would ask here if someone has fixed there module perhaps a transistor for the output wire has gone.

I have tried doing a continuity test tracing back from the pin that outputs the door light supervision -200mA output wire but I got nowhere.

I’ve ordered a replacement brain. I need my optional aux ports to work.

 

The problem with the SMMBT2222ALT3G transistors is their limited ICE rating....slightly in excess of 600mA can pop them, or simply conducting at Max ICE for several hours will do it. It does happen.

On DEI alarms, like the 5x06 controller shown above, I have found that replacing the OEM DEI transistor with a 2SC3649 in the PCP SMD packaging, allows more than double the ICE with very little adjustment to solder the device in place on the PC Board. It is not always true that an EXACT replacement component is the best direction to take in making electronics repairs....particularly if you hate having to go back and make the same repair again, at a later date.

Using a relay on DEI outputs which are noted as having a 200mA limit is definitely the right way to do things, as long as you use a quenching diode in parallel with the relay coil--otherwise, you are just setting yourself up for later problems with the alarm controller.


Probably TL;DR territory
Don't think about trying to rely upon the good graces of Directed Electronics, Inc. to provide any documentation (beyond the standard and uninformative Owners Guides published on their web site). Installation documentation and other information resources; which used to be casually available to the technically proficient public in the years now long gone; are now restricted to their dealers and dealer-employed installers, in what appears to be a circling of the wagons to preserve the ridiculous level of overcharging for installation and repair of their alarm systems, which seems to be the new "Normal", and simply grants higher justification to the "right to repair" movement in American Society of late.

To those born in the 1950's & 1960's: How long has it been since you purchased an electronic product, like a high-end stereo receiver/amplifier, and received an actual schematic diagram of the units internal circuitry without having to go looking for it elsewhere? Yeah....decades.