Want to make STICKY DIY Valve Cover Gasket

Hey guys,

I am going to replace my 2TR-FE Valve Cover gasket since is leaking and want to take the oportunity to take as much pics to make a STICKY

Please help me with the following:

1) Whats is the torque for the valve cover screws?

2) Any advise on what to focus when talking pics and what to pay attention during changing the gaskets)

THX,

Isaac

 

So, nobody knows the torque for the valve cover screws?

Come on guys, help me with this info.

THX,

Isaac

 

From the Torque spec guide under 2nd gen, 80 in-lbs.

 

Hey Nickonfire700,

Thx for your reply. Were can I get the torque spec guide? I want to have it for future reference.

THX,

Isaac

 

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html
Full Factory Service manual

 

TurboBoss... Did you made the sticky yet? I will be changing the head valve gasket for mine this month and wanted to be sure what i'm supposed to be doing

 

Hey Guys,

I have not doit this yet. I have a pinch nerve in my back that is killing me and if my wife see me working on my car, she will scream!

But you can download this Word document and you will find the Torque and sequence for the valve cover

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vjc0p0e43ce6r86/2TR FE Valve Cover Gasket.doc?dl=0

Good luck

Isaac

 

Just replaced mine this last weekend, used the Haynes manual....and what do you know? it didn't say anything about using form in place gasket for the two spots like the drop box attachment turboboss posted. Looks like I'll be redoing it and adding some sealant.

 

Remove air tube, remove plug wires, remove cover bolts, replace gasket, replace bolts, replace wires, replace airtube. 30 minute job.

 

guess it's my turn. maybe i'll do it live on youtube.

 

It wasn't a 30 minute job for me, the wiring harness coming around the front of the valve cover was a PITA to work around because it's so taut. Plus the gasket was brittle, stuck to every surface, and had to be removed in chunks. Probably took me about two to three hours being very careful not to drop dirt and gasket pieces onto the valve train. Still not a bad job. Replaced PCV valve while the cover was off too.

 

i'd love to see somebody do it in 30 minutes.. my ass

 

all cleaned up now and ready to be put back together. this is post cover removal, pre cleaning

 

so tips so far...

everything is 10MM except the bolt that holds the pcv pipe on the back of the block. it's 12mm you will want a wrench if you do this. i pulled it as i needed more wiggle back there.

disconnected a ton of the wiring harness.. to the injectors, cam position sensor and couple of others to give the wiring harness a little more play

also pulled the wire harness clips off the valve cover. flip the cover over and squeeze them with needle nose pliers and they will pop out, giving you a little more space around the wires.

and those stupid studs suck. i don't have the right socket to pull them, but if i did, i would relocate them to the front of the block. the two nuts will thread onto the other bolts for safe keeping.

o'reilly has the wrong part # for the PCV. forgot to order one when i ordered the gaskets from camel toyota

not having a drive able truck sucks. even after it gets back together, it says wait 24 hours for the rtv to fully cure before returning to service

the inner gasket was baked hard... the outer was still very pliable but obviously worn. this worries me about any o ring or seal.

i also put some paper towels in the throttle body to make sure nothing falls in.

that is all for now.

 

Keep up the good work, haha may be doing the same down the road and will definitely be a asset having your hard work on display.

 

Cover is back on and hand tightned. In an hour it will be torque time

 

i may or may not have showered the cover. i may have missed a spot around a couple of the bolt holes.

the gaskets sit in the valve cover gasket chanels nicely. was worried they would fall out of the gasket channel, but no worries.

i put the cover on before adding the sealant at the front. with all the wires disconnected and the loom holders off of the cover, there is enough space to lift the front of the cover up a couple of inches for sealant application. i thought it would be better than putting sealant on and trying to get everything in place.

80in pounds is for the torque of all the valve cover bolts.

all buttoned up.. now we wait until tomorrow to test it. hopefully i didn't fuck up too bad.

if you have to do it, it's not a bad job. it took me two hours to strip and clean and maybe another two hours to put it all back together, although an hour of that was waiting on the sealant to set up before torquing

the pcv valve should be fun to change with the cover back on. defiantly make sure you get the correct one before you start.

 

Happy to report after a couole of shake down runs she is leak free. Not a bad job if you need one and want to save a few bucks. I should call the dealer for a quote to make myself feel richer.

Picked up some 1/4 in tools in the process. Always fun to add tools to the tool box.

 

It's a triple threat - feeling of accomplishment - save $$ - buy tools. Hard 2 beat that.

 

Just did my Pcv hoping it’s my leak but pretty doubtful. Have the gasket just waiting on time and temps. Pcv took 30 mins 1/8 turn at a time fine threads and plastic, new one went on quick at least. What mileage you at. Valve train looks pretty free of build up. What are you running for oil?
Hope mine is that clean when I open mine up.