want to replace ko2s

Do you wheel a lot or tow? Only reason to go with E-rated otherwise C are just fine. E-rated are strong as hell but hurt your MPG's pretty good.

 

Breast reduction as in slapping god in the face.

I'm swapping out my 128/127 E rated 295 KO2's for some C-rated 315 KO2's. Tires are the same weight.

Looking at tire weight is important, but I weighed all my shit with a digital scale, and for the most part the tires are coming out lighter than what is advertised.

 

are C rated really that bad while wheeling?
I haven't had them always E rated but I'm considering trying the C rated 275 70 17 cooper discoverer at3.
Jeep was always just for winter beating and wheeling so MPG wasn't a huge concern but the taco is replacing my daily driver and also being my wheeling/camping rig. so trying to be easy on MPG.

 

Agreed, you will never exceed the capacity of a C tire on a Tacoma, no matter what you are doing. And if you somehow are, I'm guessing you've exceeded the capacity of the truck.

 

You want a C rated tire for wheeling because when you air down you want the tire to better form over the terrain.

 

ya but they seem to puncture easier

 

I extremely doubt anyone with 33's gets 20mpg. I think almost every 33 is E rated. It comes down to the pattern and weight. My Toyo Open Country 285's were light at 41 lbs and got 17-18mpg on my 15. It should come down to people being realistic with themselves. If you hardly off road and care about MPG then the stock tires are great on the OR. If you want something you can air down and has some extra ply too it, grip, etc. so you can offroad than go with the different tire, but your gonna lose MPG no way around it. Can't have your cake and eat it too in this aspect. But the lifted mall crawler big ass aggressive tire fad seems to be the staple these days though many will never use them to their full potential or for why those components even exist. Which is fine, If you like the look of a lifted aggressive AT tire truck and don't off road it, cool, but don't complain about losing MPG at the same time.

 

Exactly I'd rather have the E rated that you can air down for more surface contact but has more ply and thus less risk of puncture. Most guys that wheel their trucks will tell you the same, hell you can't even get most of the off road tires anything besides D or E rated (besides the KO2 17 bros).

 

Cooper did this test showing puncture resistance, kinda interesting, youtube video
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9Kz8mmLkeks" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

Very cool. Can't go wrong with more ply unless MPG is your goal.

 

Was just watching that on another site reading a review on the two.

Added plus side to e rated is tread often last a while longer.

 

C load off-road tires: wildpeak at3w, all nittos, ko2, hankook atm, toyo at2, cooper at3, duratracs, general grabber at2, Mickey Thompson Baja. If it punctures a load C it has a good chance to puncture an E.

 

You can get those all in C range at 33''?

 

It's odd though reading through a lot of tire specs of you go with a 33x12.5 you can get c rated.
Or if you go with a 315 75 16 you can get d rated.

It sucks you can't get more d rated.
Even 32s are hard to find in c rated.

 

Not 33. Some in 32 probably all in 31

 

Ya I just remember for the wheels most guys run and going to 285's or 33's you lost the C range option in a lot of the popular choices when I was shopping before.

 

Negative. Falken yes, nittos yes, duratracs and hankooks I think yes.

 

That's what I thought, thought I was losing it for a minute.

 

Thats like 3 of the 10 you listed...lol.

 

From what I've seen 265 can be found in c only 275 I've found in c is the at3

Don't get why most skip D rated and go straight to E and it sucks most 33s are 12.5 wide when in c rated. If they were 33x11 or 33x10.5 would be much better.