Was trouble installing cams. Now restarting HG job.

So I’m about to start the job either tomorrow or Tuesday and I’ll have about 3 days to finish it before I have to drive back to San Diego (I’m currently near Sac right now).

I’m planning on following Worse Than Chiggers video on YouTube only because he’s really the only one I’ve found that’s doing this. I’m open to any other videos that I may not be aware of. I’ve done just about everything in this job already as far as disassembly goes with the exception of taking the heads off. Water pump and timing belt will not be getting replaced as they are new.

I got YotaShops head gasket kit with the head bolts. https://www.yotashop.com/gasket-kit-toyota-v6-5vz-fe-3-4l-4runner-tacoma-tundra-oem-mls-cylinder-head-gasket-replacement-kit-2000-2004-kit-1020b/

I also bought a pair of reman cylinder heads that are fully assembled ready to slap on, so I won’t be putting my old heads back on. While I’m in there I’m also planning on doing the oil and coolant.

I feel like I’m pretty prepared for this job but I’m still open to advice from any of you that have done this before.

Cheers

 

Don’t use roloc disks on the block, it’s a good way to get tiny abrasive materials into the engine and destroy bearings.

A razor blade scraped perpendicular to the block does a good job of cleaning the old head gasket off.

Take lots of pictures, they’re very helpful if something is fuzzy on reassembly.

Inspect the new heads carefully, definitely want to make sure their right.

 

Ditto on all of above, make sure you have a 12-point high quality socket for removal/install of head bolts. I used a round brass brush and brakleen to clean out the head bolt threads on top of block, mine had oil in them which messes up your torque values. I also left my oil drain plug out and washed down the oil galleys (that drain head oil) with kerosene. Have several cans of brakleen on hand for general cleaning. Don’t forget the RTV and plugs and gasket for valve covers. my heads had it already but assembly/startup lube on all the camshaft bearing journals as you put the caps back on. Dump oil all over camshafts right before you put valve cover on (this oil will be the start of your oil fill). Actually, fill engine with oil before you put that last valvcover on is easier than filling with a funnel. Haha.

mainly go slow, keep everything clean.

 

Going to check if my dad has a 12 point socket, if not I’ll get one. Interesting, worse than chiggers actually puts some oil on the head bolt threads before he installs them which I thought was a little unnecessary. I believe I have some leftover RTV from the valve cover gasket job. But worst case, if I don’t, what can be a substitute for RTV that I could find at autozone, oriellys or Napa? Closest Toyota is an hour away. I was also curious about that startup oil for the heads. Is there a certain type I should use? And is startup oil absolutely necessary? Can I find it at one of my local auto stores?

 

Hows your beer supply?

 

So my bad, I misspoke- the FSM specifies a light coating of oil on head bolt threads and cam cap bolt threads. Emphasis on light, you don’t want to hydro lock your bolt. The initial torque value expects the oil….BUT I cleaned my head threads out as they had grit/debris, then once clean, lightly oiled the bolt threads as I installed. You will really want that oil, the last 1/4 turn of the head bolts is a gut buster. You will need as big of ratchet/breaker bar as you can get! Make sure you follow torque sequence and pattern from FSM, and mark all bolt heads for each 90 degree rotation so you don’t get lost on where you are. This is the worst part of the whole job.

valve cover RTV- ideally the Toyota black FIP but using a high quality oil resistant RTV from NAPA is likely fine. There is an Aisin version (likely same as Toyota) on Amazon if that’s quicker for you?

Engine assembly lube- any NAPA/Riebes has it. I have a bottle of you want to drive up
To Colfax to get it! Same goes for what I have left of Toyota black RTV!

using your normal motor oil is fine for coating the cam lobes/lifters.

 

Restocking tonight

 

Copy that. Thank you. This definitely clarifies some of my questions. And I appreciate the offer for the startup oil and the RTV! If I wasn’t starting the job tomorrow and wasn’t busy today I would probably take you up on that. I’ll likely come back to this thread often during the job.

 

Use a good gasket scraper to clean the block, the head too but be extra careful because aluminum. Blow out the threads for the head bolts to be sure they’re clean, light oil on the head bolts on the threads and a little at the head of the bolt. It’s not terribly hard work. Just tedious. A paint pen to mark the head bolts would be ideal for the 90 degree turns

 

Going to have several days of rain starting tomorrow. Crossing fingers job goes smoothly.

 

Yeah take too many pics if anything.......maybe even couple of 180 degree vids along the way....
the fog of war......in the 11th hour dont want any uncertainty.....
digital pics are free.....
patience is limited.....

 

Here are my passenger side gears before removal. I’m trying to get the new camshafts to match but with the before picture but can’t seem to. Driver side matched up great. I’m trying to get the two holes (one on each wheel) to meet but a part of the cam shaft come in contact with the valve shim. What am I doing wrong.
Everything should be at top dead center.

 

Its looks to me that the exhaust lobes are about 10~15 deg advanced clock wise....
as compared to 1st pic.......the intake lobes look correct....

 

I should mention.. the intake lobes are what I’m working on at the moment. Haven’t focused on the exhaust cam yet. When I try to copy how the cams were positioned originally I can’t because one of the lobes is pointing downward on the shim and therefore not letting the cam sit all the way down in the valleys.

 

Can the cams only be installed one way when at top dead center?

 

And on mine 2rz/3rz you have to put in a bolt on that split gear......if its ever freed from the intake cam gear...

Change the heading on this thread.......asking for help installing 5vz cams....
bunch here have already done this........

 

I'd hit up @Empty_Lord since you're stuck. He might have suggestions

 

See I’ve seen that in the video I’m following but I don’t understand it’s purpose or how it affects installation.

 

Yes those two gears have to stay under tension relative to each other.....
and then mated against the intake gear......
if that bolt slips out....its not that hard to reset em....
but am clueless to their function or action.......

 

First of all, you need to get the service bolt back in the split gear (note the gear is spring loaded for anti-backlash feature). You will need to do this on the bench, and you will need a pin spanner wrench to tension the movable gear, and a crescent wrench to hold the fixed gear (via the shaft flats). Get that first…in the future, you install the bolt prior to removal, and don’t remove it until all cam bolt
caps are torqued down.

On one side of the engine, the FSM indicates that during installation you align the double dots (which are 180 out from the single dots). Try doing that, bolt all the caps down to torque, remove service bolt, and then turn cam assembly (using wrench flats on cam, careful of the spring tension it will beat your hand with the wrench). Turn assembly to ensure single dots match. Ultimately, setting TDC before belt install is done with cam gear mark so as long as your dots match through a couple rotations, you are clear to install valve
Covers and continue reassembly (don’t forget to coat everything in oil right before).

hope this helps, I can ref the FSM in a bit if you need any other tips